KSport Coilovers: All About 'Em

[j.fro]

Tower integrity did not change from the cuts. The KSport hat is a pretty thick piece of aluminum, and all of the stress is distributed away from the cuts.

[rionhosaki]

I contacted K-sport and they refused to give me a 5.3 spring.


"Regarding spring rates, they advised that a 5.3kg up front isn't doable as they don't offer any springs in this design with that rate. "

"They did mention that is only a very small difference from the 6kg that the kit comes with. Regarding the rear, they said they could do the 7.5kg rather than the 8.7 if you'd like. They did warn that the warranty on the struts portion of the coilovers would be voided due to this. They advised that they spring rates offered on this kit were chosen for a specific reason and that by going softer on the spring rate, you do risk possibly damaging the struts that are included. If you'd like to proceed, it is an extra $12 per corner to change to a different spring rate. "


Should I go with 6kg front and 7.5kg rear? and void the warranty or go with the 8.7 rear?

i don't want the ride so rough that my teeth gets rattled out or destroy my wheels.

[Jamesp]

Originally Posted by j.fro

Tower integrity did not change from the cuts. The KSport hat is a pretty thick piece of aluminum, and all of the stress is distributed away from the cuts.

I'm not so sure. Round holes are much more structually efficient than square due to stress concentrations at the corners of square holes, not to mention the corresponding reduction in material. Bolt holes should have a minimum of 1.5 times bolt diameter to edge distance for similar reasons. Don't get me wrong, I'm all for owner inspired redesign, I've drilled holes in my intermediate shaft, but the modification should take into account engineering principles. So +1 on stepping out and making the mod. Just the same, the big square hole with the limited bolt hole to edge dimension is outside my comfort zone. I do give seningen props for making the mod. I hope it works well.

[Bigsmoothlee]

Question, I just got a set of Ksports from Ebay.

I dont plan to lower my car much, maybe 0.5". Can I max out the camber in the rear without needing adjustable toe control arms?

[j.fro]

I had to go with adjustable toe arms, but I also went 1.5" or so lower.

[seningen]

Originally Posted by Jamesp

I'm not so sure. Round holes are much more structually efficient than square due to stress concentrations at the corners of square holes, not to mention the corresponding reduction in material. Bolt holes should have a minimum of 1.5 times bolt diameter to edge distance for similar reasons. Don't get me wrong, I'm all for owner inspired redesign, I've drilled holes in my intermediate shaft, but the modification should take into account engineering principles. So +1 on stepping out and making the mod. Just the same, the big square hole with the limited bolt hole to edge dimension is outside my comfort zone. I do give seningen props for making the mod. I hope it works well.

No props to me - I grabbed the photo from the forums.
A set of camber plates "fell into my lap" -- so that is the route I will be going :-)

Good comments on the square vs round too.

Mike

[j.fro]

All I can offer is my experience. I cut those squares about three years ago. Our AX lot is far from smooth... On Saturday we had to alter the course because a pothole opened up. All that debris on top of the strut came from that event. Nevertheless, after all of the abuse, no cracks. Like I said before, though, I should probably be concerned with how OK I am with using a die grinder on my car, but I'm not. Roll on, little race car!

[insite]

instead of cutting out large pieces like the photos above, i drilled a row of holes over the fasteners. this allows me to change the settings but still leaves the structure largely in tact.

to the guy wanting to lower his car by 1/2" - you will have no problems. no correction arms required.

[Bigsmoothlee]

Originally Posted by j.fro

I had to go with adjustable toe arms, but I also went 1.5" or so lower.

Originally Posted by insite

instead of cutting out large pieces like the photos above, i drilled a row of holes over the fasteners. this allows me to change the settings but still leaves the structure largely in tact.

to the guy wanting to lower his car by 1/2" - you will have no problems. no correction arms required.

Thanks guys. Im running wide wheels with the wrong offset... so I cant exactly go too low.