01-28-2008, 09:35 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Where the Sewer Meets the Sea, CA. USA
Posts: 2,695
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As for my excessive Toe issue, im going to try to trim off some material from the ecentric washers to give me less + toe and more negative... I dont like the way the rear end reacts to bumps in the road as a result of the excessive + toe. The rear end will have a shimmy or wiggle when one wheel hits a bump...
for instance, the drivers side rear wheel hits a bump, the rear will sway to the left what feels to be about a half inch, then as the driver side wheel comes back to flat level road, the the rear-end will sway back about half an inch or less. and vis-versa if the Passenger rear wheel hits a bump.
So what ill do is trim some material off of the shortest end of the ecentric washers to get me closer to acceptible toe range.
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01-28-2008, 09:43 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Where the Sewer Meets the Sea, CA. USA
Posts: 2,695
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However i can just shorten the length of my rear Track-arms and that would pull the away the + toe i have but damn, its a Bit** breaking loose those lock nuts on the Track-arm.
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01-30-2008, 10:48 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Where the Sewer Meets the Sea, CA. USA
Posts: 2,695
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Ok well i re-aligned my 986 yesterday, it came out good, I ended up shortening the length of the Upper Control Arm (Track Arms) to pull the Hub further away from the Toe-arm, thus getting rid of that excessive positive toe and the rear-end shimmy i would get while driving over bumps...
I had trouble getting the front toe to match cause any adjustment i would make to the left side would change the right side alittle so i left it alone after 3 good tries.
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01-30-2008, 11:13 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 1,820
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CJ -
for sways, if you're car is primarily a street car, get the M030 S front and M030 base rear. it's almost zero sacrifice on comfort and a HECK of a difference from a drivability standpoint.
for a street car, the GT3 bar is a bit stiff, as are the H&R. the Eibachs are nearly identical to the M030, but cost twice as much. the factory stuff yields the most bang for the buck.
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01-30-2008, 11:14 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Where the Sewer Meets the Sea, CA. USA
Posts: 2,695
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I dont mind the extra stiffness just as long as it doesnt cause the front end to to bounce all over the place... Will the GT3RS do that?
EDIT: I take that first sentence back.... I want to feel like im in a GT Cup car... even in the streets, I know while the comfort levels will drop with that GT3RS sway bar but to me it'll pale in compairison to how great it feels to take a hard corner with relatively little body roll.
Last edited by CJ_Boxster; 01-30-2008 at 11:27 AM.
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01-30-2008, 01:13 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 1,820
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ_Boxster
I dont mind the extra stiffness just as long as it doesnt cause the front end to to bounce all over the place... Will the GT3RS do that?
EDIT: I take that first sentence back.... I want to feel like im in a GT Cup car... even in the streets, I know while the comfort levels will drop with that GT3RS sway bar but to me it'll pale in compairison to how great it feels to take a hard corner with relatively little body roll. 
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if that's the case, then get the GT3 front and H&R rear. there's no benefit to the GT3 RS bar; the GT3 bar can already adjust to far stiffer than your suspension can properly damp. you'll need adjustable drop links up front for the GT3 bar. i made a few extra sets; PM me if you need some.
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01-30-2008, 01:15 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MD
Posts: 447
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All you're going to feel with a GT3 bar on the street is a bunch of understeer, at least with that little amount of front camber and those narrow stock wheels. Yes, the car will corner flatter, but you're sacrificing grip.
The track guys and autocrossers like the GT3 bar because it stabilizes the car in fast transitions and the understeer can be dialed out with driving style changes. On the street you're kind of stuck with it.
I would recommend the M030 bars for your car.
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01-30-2008, 01:30 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Where the Sewer Meets the Sea, CA. USA
Posts: 2,695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John V
All you're going to feel with a GT3 bar on the street is a bunch of understeer, at least with that little amount of front camber and those narrow stock wheels. Yes, the car will corner flatter, but you're sacrificing grip.
The track guys and autocrossers like the GT3 bar because it stabilizes the car in fast transitions and the understeer can be dialed out with driving style changes. On the street you're kind of stuck with it.
I would recommend the M030 bars for your car.
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I do have the wider tire setup for the fronts right now. I forgot the size exactly but its been covered on the forum before, so i went with the less understeer tires... the camber setting i have right now is the least amount of negative camber i can get since its lowered so i have ALOT more negative camber adjustment that i can tap into if understeer becomes an issue on the track which im sure it will, easy adjustment for me really.
Well what i'll do is go for the GT3 bar and if i hate it, ill go with M030 S for front and sell the GT3 bar.
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