01-25-2008, 04:17 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Where the Sewer Meets the Sea, CA. USA
Posts: 2,695
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Need Sway-bar options...
I just finished installing my new struts and a set of eibach springs...
Even with the Eibach springs the ride is a hell of alot better than my stock setup which had 122k miles on it. Now my wheels "walk" over bumps in the road rather than skip off the bumps... I can feel the stiffness of the Eibachs over larger bumps and when i turn the car is noticably flatter (less body roll) than when compaired to the old stock suspension.
However, I'd like there to be less body roll. I have a MY97 Boxster non-S. What options are there as far as Sway-Bars? Incase you ask, I'd like to track the car eventually, so i wouldnt mind a really stiff sway bar. Maybe Insite could help since i know he basically lives on an autocross track.
Thanks in advance!
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01-25-2008, 05:43 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: baton rouge
Posts: 840
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So you lower the car and dont post pictures.....
CJ, my friend I think that is against the 986Forum Charter.
See what you can do to rectify this ASAP.
In other words....Post some pics!!!
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01-25-2008, 06:06 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: baton rouge
Posts: 840
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To answer the question...there was a thread not to long ago about gt3 sway bars on the boxster. I dont recall what the final answer was. Hand R also makes a sway bar for the Boxster.
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01-25-2008, 08:51 PM
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#4
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Track rat
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Southern ID
Posts: 3,701
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CJ,
Search is your friend.
GT3 sway bars??
__________________
2009 Cayman 2.9L PDK (with a few tweaks)
PCA-GPX Chief Driving Instructor-Ret.
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01-26-2008, 01:03 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Where the Sewer Meets the Sea, CA. USA
Posts: 2,695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary in BR
So you lower the car and dont post pictures.....
CJ, my friend I think that is against the 986Forum Charter.
See what you can do to rectify this ASAP.
In other words....Post some pics!!!
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Thanks Gary, i think i will go with the GTS RS Sway bar... Is that the Sway bar from a 996 GT3RS???
LOL yeah i know im usually the first person to ask someone to post pictures and now look at me, posting a thread without pictures... Well i didnt take any after the install cause the boxster was full of dirt and water spots from the rain the same nite so ill take some today..
Thanks Topless i had searched and seen that thread but wasnt sure my needs would be identical as that person seeing as how i have Eibachs and they have a different setup, but i guess it doesnt matter too much so im going for it, GT3RS Swaybar for the front and H&R for the rear!
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01-26-2008, 06:03 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: malibu
Posts: 46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ_Boxster
I just finished installing my new struts and a set of eibach springs...
Even with the Eibach springs the ride is a hell of alot better than my stock setup which had 122k miles on it. Now my wheels "walk" over bumps in the road rather than skip off the bumps... I can feel the stiffness of the Eibachs over larger bumps and when i turn the car is noticably flatter (less body roll) than when compaired to the old stock suspension.
However, I'd like there to be less body roll. I have a MY97 Boxster non-S. What options are there as far as Sway-Bars? Incase you ask, I'd like to track the car eventually, so i wouldnt mind a really stiff sway bar. Maybe Insite could help since i know he basically lives on an autocross track.
Thanks in advance!
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I did some research before I went with the ROW M030 suspension. Somewhere I read that stiffer sway bars are a tradeoff. Up to a point, greater stiffness helps for flatter cornering. However, eventually you get to some point where they turn independent suspensions into the equivalent of rigid axles, essentially defeating the whole purpose of all the suspension engineering. The Boxster suspension seems to be a tradeoff between decent ride and handling (since Porsche is selling to a wide audience, and most people don't track their cars). You might want to ask on the Boxster racing board to see what some of the suspension experts there have to say - http://boxcar-racing.com/forum/index.php?board=1.0
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01-26-2008, 07:35 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Where the Sewer Meets the Sea, CA. USA
Posts: 2,695
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Thanks for the into geoff.
Heres a picture i took this afternoon of the boxster, new struts and Eibachs installed.
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01-26-2008, 07:58 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Where the Sewer Meets the Sea, CA. USA
Posts: 2,695
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Heres what the alignment looked like after installing the Eibachs and putting the suspension parts back together...
You can tell its way off but that is to be expected
Heres the suspension AFTER the alignment, this is as good as i could get it.... Damn toe is as close as i can get it... pretty much max'd it out in the 0.70 degree mark.
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01-27-2008, 07:35 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: malibu
Posts: 46
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Alignment
Carlos - you might want to check with Steve Alarcon at Johnson's Alignment in Torrance. I used him to install my ROW M030 setup, and based on my experience and the comments of many others, he's one of the best in the business when it comes to Porsche suspensions. He might also have some suggestions on sway bar options that will work well with your Eibachs
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01-27-2008, 10:07 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Where the Sewer Meets the Sea, CA. USA
Posts: 2,695
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thanks geoff but there isnt anything he can do about the Alignment. Since the car is lowered, the stock toe arms will no longer be short enough to get the length I desire. I'll have to talk to delubozparts about his adjustible toe arms. Those would fix it. As for my camber... I'll live with it cause its very close to the acceptible amount of camber, about 0.02 & 0.01 degrees off.
Btw, I used a $75,000 Electronic Alignment machine so its pretty accurate.
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01-27-2008, 10:39 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 3,417
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Dude forget about new sway bars.....wheels my man,you need new wheels.
__________________
-99' Zenith Blue 5-spd...didn't agree with a center divider on the freeway
-01' S Orient Red Metallic 6-spd...money pit...sold to buy a house
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01-28-2008, 09:27 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Where the Sewer Meets the Sea, CA. USA
Posts: 2,695
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Ha yeah i do, ill wait awhile though cause getting wheels isnt just "getting wheels" i have to also buy the rubber for them and thats alot of money to spend on something that not everyone will notice so im goign to wait till i see something timeless as far as the style of wheels.
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01-28-2008, 09:35 AM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Where the Sewer Meets the Sea, CA. USA
Posts: 2,695
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As for my excessive Toe issue, im going to try to trim off some material from the ecentric washers to give me less + toe and more negative... I dont like the way the rear end reacts to bumps in the road as a result of the excessive + toe. The rear end will have a shimmy or wiggle when one wheel hits a bump...
for instance, the drivers side rear wheel hits a bump, the rear will sway to the left what feels to be about a half inch, then as the driver side wheel comes back to flat level road, the the rear-end will sway back about half an inch or less. and vis-versa if the Passenger rear wheel hits a bump.
So what ill do is trim some material off of the shortest end of the ecentric washers to get me closer to acceptible toe range.
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01-28-2008, 09:43 AM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Where the Sewer Meets the Sea, CA. USA
Posts: 2,695
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However i can just shorten the length of my rear Track-arms and that would pull the away the + toe i have but damn, its a Bit** breaking loose those lock nuts on the Track-arm.
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01-30-2008, 10:48 AM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Where the Sewer Meets the Sea, CA. USA
Posts: 2,695
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Ok well i re-aligned my 986 yesterday, it came out good, I ended up shortening the length of the Upper Control Arm (Track Arms) to pull the Hub further away from the Toe-arm, thus getting rid of that excessive positive toe and the rear-end shimmy i would get while driving over bumps...
I had trouble getting the front toe to match cause any adjustment i would make to the left side would change the right side alittle so i left it alone after 3 good tries.
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01-30-2008, 11:13 AM
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 1,820
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CJ -
for sways, if you're car is primarily a street car, get the M030 S front and M030 base rear. it's almost zero sacrifice on comfort and a HECK of a difference from a drivability standpoint.
for a street car, the GT3 bar is a bit stiff, as are the H&R. the Eibachs are nearly identical to the M030, but cost twice as much. the factory stuff yields the most bang for the buck.
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01-30-2008, 11:14 AM
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#17
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Where the Sewer Meets the Sea, CA. USA
Posts: 2,695
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I dont mind the extra stiffness just as long as it doesnt cause the front end to to bounce all over the place... Will the GT3RS do that?
EDIT: I take that first sentence back.... I want to feel like im in a GT Cup car... even in the streets, I know while the comfort levels will drop with that GT3RS sway bar but to me it'll pale in compairison to how great it feels to take a hard corner with relatively little body roll.
Last edited by CJ_Boxster; 01-30-2008 at 11:27 AM.
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01-30-2008, 01:13 PM
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#18
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 1,820
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ_Boxster
I dont mind the extra stiffness just as long as it doesnt cause the front end to to bounce all over the place... Will the GT3RS do that?
EDIT: I take that first sentence back.... I want to feel like im in a GT Cup car... even in the streets, I know while the comfort levels will drop with that GT3RS sway bar but to me it'll pale in compairison to how great it feels to take a hard corner with relatively little body roll. 
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if that's the case, then get the GT3 front and H&R rear. there's no benefit to the GT3 RS bar; the GT3 bar can already adjust to far stiffer than your suspension can properly damp. you'll need adjustable drop links up front for the GT3 bar. i made a few extra sets; PM me if you need some.
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01-30-2008, 01:15 PM
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#19
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MD
Posts: 447
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All you're going to feel with a GT3 bar on the street is a bunch of understeer, at least with that little amount of front camber and those narrow stock wheels. Yes, the car will corner flatter, but you're sacrificing grip.
The track guys and autocrossers like the GT3 bar because it stabilizes the car in fast transitions and the understeer can be dialed out with driving style changes. On the street you're kind of stuck with it.
I would recommend the M030 bars for your car.
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01-30-2008, 01:30 PM
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#20
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Where the Sewer Meets the Sea, CA. USA
Posts: 2,695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John V
All you're going to feel with a GT3 bar on the street is a bunch of understeer, at least with that little amount of front camber and those narrow stock wheels. Yes, the car will corner flatter, but you're sacrificing grip.
The track guys and autocrossers like the GT3 bar because it stabilizes the car in fast transitions and the understeer can be dialed out with driving style changes. On the street you're kind of stuck with it.
I would recommend the M030 bars for your car.
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I do have the wider tire setup for the fronts right now. I forgot the size exactly but its been covered on the forum before, so i went with the less understeer tires... the camber setting i have right now is the least amount of negative camber i can get since its lowered so i have ALOT more negative camber adjustment that i can tap into if understeer becomes an issue on the track which im sure it will, easy adjustment for me really.
Well what i'll do is go for the GT3 bar and if i hate it, ill go with M030 S for front and sell the GT3 bar.
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