Next, I checked the front latch, there are two micro-switches in there. One drops the windows, the other is for the Top Relay. The latch is held in place by two screws covered by the 'alien eyes'.
I decided that for now (and probably forever), I will operate the top on this car manually instead of electrically. It's simple, safe, and functional. If you remove all the unneeded parts, your car will be about 15 pounds lighter. If you want to restore function later, it it not hard to re-install the required parts.
Here's the video:
Having done this, the clamshell is no longer secured down. It may rattle when you go over bumps, but I found that it does not lift at speed, and the top remains secure when you open it. I do recommend that you use a method to secure the clamshell just for aesthetics and having the job done right. Woody used a trunk latch and cable as shown in his build thread and here: Manual roof downgrade
Eric G used some aftermarket latches: Why I converted to a manual top...
I intend to use the trunk latch method on mine.
__________________ I am not an attorney, mechanic, or member of the clergy. Following any advice given in my posts is done at your own peril.
There's a comment on the video about the instrument panel top warning light staying on. On my car, a 1999, the top light still functions normally. On my 2000 S that has everything including the top removed, the light stayed on until I jumped the connection:
On the 2000 - 2004 Boxsters the "Convertible top indicator light" on the instrument panel is controlled by a switch inside the left side roof transmission. You can make that light go out by jumping the Brown/Black wire to the Brown wire that connects to the roof transmission or just grounding the Brown/Black wire.
On 1999 and older the function is done by the "B-pillar switch". It should still operate normally after the top is converted to manual mode. The switch may be bypassed by jumping or grounding the wires to that switch.
There's a comment on the video about the instrument panel top warning light staying on. On my car, a 1999, the top light still functions normally. On my 2000 S that has everything including the top removed, the light stayed on until I jumped the connection:
On the 2000 - 2004 Boxsters the "Convertible top indicator light" on the instrument panel is controlled by a switch inside the left side roof transmission. You can make that light go out by jumping the Brown/Black wire to the Brown wire that connects to the roof transmission or just grounding the Brown/Black wire.
On 1999 and older the function is done by the "B-pillar switch". It should still operate normally after the top is converted to manual mode. The switch may be bypassed by jumping or grounding the wires to that switch.
For a 2001, where exactly is this switch located? You indicated the "switch is in the left side transmission", do you mean the transmission under the clam shell? I pulled the transmission off the drivers side but I do not see the switch anywhere around or behind it. I don't think it's actually inside the gearbox since there are only a few 22awg wires going to it.
For a 2001, where exactly is this switch located? You indicated the "switch is in the left side transmission", do you mean the transmission under the clam shell? ...
I just noticed this post today (6 months later). Hopefully Bry has his fixed. To anyone else who ends up here:
Here's one I uploaded a while back:
__________________ I am not an attorney, mechanic, or member of the clergy. Following any advice given in my posts is done at your own peril.
They are routed up the B-pillar under the carpeted trim piece to the left of the left seat. From there there are routed to the "B-pillar switch" on the '97 - '99, or front of the left side top transmission (should be routed over the edge or through the grey drip pan) on the 2000 and later. Pics are in my following post now..
__________________ I am not an attorney, mechanic, or member of the clergy. Following any advice given in my posts is done at your own peril.
Just adding this in after a couple people commented that they could not remove the bolt. It is possible to release and lift the clamshell for better access. I have done this by reaching back with a very long flat tip screwdriver and popping off the clips that hold the lifting arms onto the clamshell (both sides of the car).
__________________ I am not an attorney, mechanic, or member of the clergy. Following any advice given in my posts is done at your own peril.
Good timing. This is my next step. After doing some research, I think my problem is the cables that connect to the top motor and trans. I hear a power/clicking sound from the motor. Did some research on the board and saw Maurice (Schoir) pinpointes this area with a possible faulty cable with a power sound and no top movement. Maurice has been awesome over the years with advice.
My question is this, with the top down, I'm not sure if I can reach those clips. I should be able to pop the ball joint or get to that 19mm bolt?
With the top open, you should be able to reach the ball joint and pop it off. Most of the trouble comes from having the top stuck closed.
In the video I embedded in my first post I tried to pop off the ball joint first. You can see how difficult it is to reach and get any leverage.
Almost all of the cars that I've done the 'manual' roof to I have later repaired. The one that I started this thread with actually did have a bad microswitch in the roof latch. The '99 and earlier have two microswitches and one was loose enough that it didn't quite make contact.
__________________ I am not an attorney, mechanic, or member of the clergy. Following any advice given in my posts is done at your own peril.
Finally, pop all of the ball joints off. That was tuff. The best way to get the black ones loose is to hammer a screwdriver to separate the ball just a bit. Then use a pull and twist motion at the ball joint to further separate. I finished it off with a crowbar.
Well, I pulled the cables on both sides of the convertible top motor by the third brake light. The cables look good. The passenger side of the motor cable insert has a lot of oil/grease coming out of it and the cable is greasy too. Why is that? I tested out the motor and it's working. Next is to check the transmission side/cables.
I pulled the driver side transmission. The plastic gear is broken. I plan to rebuild it with metal gears. Is white lithium grease sufficient to lube gears or is there anything better for the job. Thanks!
If you can get clam shell in maintenance mode. Its easy to use a long pry bar (the kind with a nail head remover end) and pry off the ball joints as noted elsewhere. First, remove clip in the photo, then, use the pry bar to remove RED ball joint to release the top. Next, pop off the BLACK ones to release the clam shell. As others have shared, the top them comes up and down smoothly and the clam shell lays down without need for latch. In maintenance position this process took less than five minutes and will me buy time to fix the problem.
Last edited by JM17; 05-07-2023 at 07:37 AM.
Reason: Adding photo
Parts Car, car parts
Honda Del Sol(s)
"Hers"
My Original '99
The 78 F350
This
That
The S 2.5
Other
Linear Mode
