3rd Party Keyless Entry DIY (Why Not?)

[Swhitcomb]

I called ECU Drs yesterday. I’m going to send it off to them. They’re going to verify it’s functioing properly, and program an extra key for me. As soon as it gets back from having the new top installed I’ll send the CLU and ECU to them.

[Swhitcomb]

Ordered new door locks yesterday and sending the CLU and ECU to ECU drs this weekend. Wish me luck.

[Swhitcomb]

Passenger door lock is in. No change. Will report back after I replace the drivers side. None of the activations in durametric work still. About to box up the immobilizer and send it out.

[Swhitcomb]

Ive owned this car since December of 2013. I finally get the time, money, and things sorted to send the CLU and ECU to ECUDoctors, ship it off yesterday (from VA to FL) and of course, there’s a hurricane. Shipping pretty much shut down. Box is sitting in Laurel MD and will be there who knows how long. I just want to know what’s wrong with the car. I’ve waited long enough.

I know, trivial for those that are in the path of the hurricane, but I’m being selfish for a min.

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by Swhitcomb

Ive owned this car since December of 2013. I finally get the time, money, and things sorted to send the CLU and ECU to ECUDoctors, ship it off yesterday (from VA to FL) and of course, there’s a hurricane. Shipping pretty much shut down. Box is sitting in Laurel MD and will be there who knows how long. I just want to know what’s wrong with the car. I’ve waited long enough.

I know, trivial for those that are in the path of the hurricane, but I’m being selfish for a min.

Oh, that sucks...

[Swhitcomb]

Well, they got it today. Got an email around 1130 that they were looking at it. Never heard from them and they close at 4. I’m really curious to find out what’s wrong with it. I’m also having them reprogram the original key and sell me an additional remote.

[Swhitcomb]

ECU doctors is done and it’s on the way back. They replaced the immobilizer. As I knew, it had water damage. They were able to get a new key to work with the old unit, but the codes it was throwing they believe are because of the water damage. They programmed and new key for me while they had it. It should be there on Tuesday. Hopefully the issues will all be solved.

[particlewave]

Did they give any clues about what the actual issue was?
Unlikely, but would be nice to know.

[Swhitcomb]

They didn’t offer any insight. However, the new immobilizer is brand new. It works perfectly with the Porsche key, it does the exact same thing it was doing before with the 3rd party key. So my theory is that perhaps this particular model of M535 isn’t compatible with it for some reason. There are 2-3 M535s. They actually were able to get the old immobilizer to work fine, they just wouldn’t warranty it due to the water damage. Nevertheless, I now have a functioning key, and valet key.

[MaddogsMotorSports]

Hi Guys, I have read this whole thread twice but cant get my door locks to work. I have a 2003 base, I also have the M535 unit. I have the tail lights successfully working when I hit the lock/unlock on the remote but thats it. I found the brown/white wire for sure but there seems to be two brown/red wires? Is the wiring different for the 2003?

thanks in advance,

Dave

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by MaddogsMotorSports

Hi Guys, I have read this whole thread twice but cant get my door locks to work. I have a 2003 base, I also have the M535 unit. I have the tail lights successfully working when I hit the lock/unlock on the remote but thats it. I found the brown/white wire for sure but there seems to be two brown/red wires? Is the wiring different for the 2003?

thanks in advance,

Dave

........
Yes

[MaddogsMotorSports]

lol thanks, I was hoping someone could help me out and share a schematic or maybe know which wires that I need to tap into?

Originally Posted by Starter986

........
Yes

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by MaddogsMotorSports

Hi Guys, I have read this whole thread twice but cant get my door locks to work. I have a 2003 base, I also have the M535 unit. I have the tail lights successfully working when I hit the lock/unlock on the remote but thats it. I found the brown/white wire for sure but there seems to be two brown/red wires? Is the wiring different for the 2003?

thanks in advance,

Dave

The wiring for this is the same across all 986 model years.
There should only be one brown/red wire.
There is a brown/red/black wire (brown wire, red stripe, black bands), so make sure you didn't get them mixed up.

[MaddogsMotorSports]

worked on the car again yesterday and got it figured out, the little splice clamps i used didnt pierce the wire insulation the whole way. lock/unlock and trunk all work now. thanks for all the help

Originally Posted by particlewave

The wiring for this is the same across all 986 model years.
There should only be one brown/red wire.
There is a brown/red/black wire (brown wire, red stripe, black bands), so make sure you didn't get them mixed up.

[Swhitcomb]

Cool. I had/have mine soldered and wired directly together, and while it would lock and unlock, as soon as the alarm armed, it wouldn’t unlock.

[Tonybandit]

I have got an alarm and I only have 3 wires for the doors.
Will this be one neg and two wires for open and close?
Also, I only seam to have one wire for the trunk, is this right?
Thanks.

[particlewave]

There's your problem.
The seats are powered by the "consumer switched off" circuit. It's a circuit that supplies power to peripheral devices like seats and mirrors. When the car is off and doors closed, this circuit goes inactive after 10 minutes or so and stays that way until a door is opened. When you lock the car, the circuit goes inactive within 10-15 seconds.

In other words, the car is cutting power to your aftermarket keyless entry unit. I suggest getting constant power at a known good source, such as the current distributor.

[MaddogsMotorSports]

Particlewave, thanks I will try and switch the power source in the next couple of days and let you know what happens. Thanks again for all the help.

Originally Posted by particlewave

There's your problem.
The seats are powered by the "consumer switched off" circuit. It's a circuit that supplies power to peripheral devices like seats and mirrors. When the car is off and doors closed, this circuit goes inactive after 10 minutes or so and stays that way until a door is opened. When you lock the car, the circuit goes inactive within 10-15 seconds.

In other words, the car is cutting power to your aftermarket keyless entry unit. I suggest getting constant power at a known good source, such as the current distributor.

[MaddogsMotorSports]

So I changed my power sorce to one that is 12v constant and same thing the after 15-20 seconds the keyless remote will not unlock the doors. You can hear the relays in the after market unit clicking but the doors will not unlock however for some reason I can pop the trunk??

Originally Posted by particlewave

There's your problem.
The seats are powered by the "consumer switched off" circuit. It's a circuit that supplies power to peripheral devices like seats and mirrors. When the car is off and doors closed, this circuit goes inactive after 10 minutes or so and stays that way until a door is opened. When you lock the car, the circuit goes inactive within 10-15 seconds.

In other words, the car is cutting power to your aftermarket keyless entry unit. I suggest getting constant power at a known good source, such as the current distributor.

[pahanorlando]

I've read this several times, but I am a bit confused. It seems like some users have issues with setting it up, is it because of immobilizer?

Here is what I have. I bought porsche with missing circuit board in the remote. I've figured that since it will cost about $300 at least to get the circuit board and then to get dealership to set it up. I want to get control remote, something like this https://www.amazon.com/FICBOX-Universal-Vehicle-Keyless-Central/dp/B01HB5M5R2/ref=sr_1_42?crid=2OR0S8X8KHDM&keywords=keyless+control+remote&qid=1560636914&s=gateway&sprefix=keyless+control+%2Caps%2C186&sr=8-42

Then I'll have to connect some wires to ground, some to constant power, and some to lock/unlock wire. Is that correct? Or there is something more complicate? Also, will I be able to set up my trunk or frunk? I have release cables for trunk and frunk, nothing electronic.