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Old 09-28-2013, 10:48 AM   #1
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Trunk opener handle graphics images

One of the few imperfections on my car when I got it last month was the front trunk opener handle. It was badly scratched. I decided to repaint both handles to make sure they matched each other perfectly. Painting is easy enough, but I didn't want to eliminate the car graphics on the handles.

The link below points to an Adobe Illustrator file with the appropriate graphics. I printed the file on clear water slide decal material using a laser printer. After painting the handles with metallic aluminum paint, I applied a coat of clear, then the decal, then more clear. Easy enough, and cheaper than buying the kick panel assembly with handles, for $611.


https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B3kvk05blsPJejdYMUY2T2FGbWM/edit?usp=sharing
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Old 09-28-2013, 11:28 AM   #2
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Very nice work! Pictures?
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Old 09-29-2013, 03:21 AM   #3
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Coming soon. Parts are still drying. I'll put it together next weekend.
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Old 10-10-2013, 05:33 PM   #4
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Old 10-10-2013, 10:04 PM   #5
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This is a pretty cool idea. I might have to give my heavily scratched pulls a refresh... looks easy to do. Less the removal of course, heard they are a PITA to disassemble.... correct?!
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Old 10-11-2013, 02:18 AM   #6
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Easy - pry off three plastic plugs on the VERTICAL part of the kick panel facing the seat, then loosen three allen head screws through the holes, 5mm I think. The screws don't have to be removed, just loosened. Lift the assembly and remove the two allen head screws holding the two cables. Disassembly is obvious, and just as easy.

I used Wurth silver paint and clear lacquer that I bought to touch up the wheels, over primer I bought at Home Depot. For the kick panel, I used some flat black enamel over the same primer. Decals were not affected by the clear lacquer.

Make sure you buy good water slide decal paper. My first try was with some laser printer paper I bought on ebay. It printed fine, but the images flaked off when the paper was bent. I tried it on an inkjet, and the ink washed off. Both printers used factory ink and toner cartridges, so that wasn't the problem. The next purchase worked perfectly on the laser.

I also used the same Wurth paints on the silver plastic insert for the shift knob.

Last edited by MitchSF; 10-11-2013 at 10:47 AM.
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Old 10-11-2013, 05:52 AM   #7
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Perfection! and thanks for the simple steps.

So perfect that if I were you I'd put a cardboard or something between the kick panel and the seat to protect/avoid contact with a wild shoe for the next 15-30days. Just to be on the safe side
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Old 10-11-2013, 09:31 AM   #8
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Very nice work
Which decal paper did you use?

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Old 10-11-2013, 10:45 AM   #9
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I got the laser water slide decal paper from decalpaper.com.

If anyone wants decals, send a PM and I'll give you my address. Send an SASE and I will return four decals, two for practice, and two to use. Obviously if you've seen the .AI file, you know I have many left that will never be used here. After Tuesday I'll be traveling and I won't respond for two weeks.

Fred - why not just clear plastic on the door panels, seats, carpets, etc. The interior will last forever, just like my long dead grandmother's couch!

Last edited by MitchSF; 10-11-2013 at 10:49 AM.
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Old 10-11-2013, 11:51 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MitchSF View Post
I got the laser water slide decal paper from decalpaper.com.

If anyone wants decals, send a PM and I'll give you my address. Send an SASE and I will return four decals, two for practice, and two to use. Obviously if you've seen the .AI file, you know I have many left that will never be used here. After Tuesday I'll be traveling and I won't respond for two weeks.

Fred - why not just clear plastic on the door panels, seats, carpets, etc. The interior will last forever, just like my long dead grandmother's couch!
Was just recommending the cardboard idea as a temporary protection method for a few weeks until the paint/clear coat have cured enough to take a good kick

You don't have grandma's old couch still today... do you?
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Old 10-11-2013, 01:10 PM   #11
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I let the paint dry for a week before I put the parts back in the car. Couch is long gone!
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Old 03-30-2014, 12:21 PM   #12
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Did you have to take the seat out? I am working this right now and am blocked because my allen wrench will only fit the front of the three holes. I am heading out to see if I can find a socket that has a longer 5mm hex end, or maybe I will buy a 5mm allen wrench and cut it down....

Quote:
Originally Posted by MitchSF View Post
Easy - pry off three plastic plugs on the VERTICAL part of the kick panel facing the seat, then loosen three allen head screws through the holes, 5mm I think. The screws don't have to be removed, just loosened. Lift the assembly and remove the two allen head screws holding the two cables. Disassembly is obvious, and just as easy.

I used Wurth silver paint and clear lacquer that I bought to touch up the wheels, over primer I bought at Home Depot. For the kick panel, I used some flat black enamel over the same primer. Decals were not affected by the clear lacquer.

Make sure you buy good water slide decal paper. My first try was with some laser printer paper I bought on ebay. It printed fine, but the images flaked off when the paper was bent. I tried it on an inkjet, and the ink washed off. Both printers used factory ink and toner cartridges, so that wasn't the problem. The next purchase worked perfectly on the laser.

I also used the same Wurth paints on the silver plastic insert for the shift knob.
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Old 03-31-2014, 06:27 AM   #13
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Mine fit without removing the seat.
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Old 04-01-2014, 02:27 PM   #14
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