Numbers are in!
Not going to lie to you or myself, I was hoping for a bit more, if only just to have big numbers on a peice of paper. However, as anyone familiar with dyno tuning will tell you,
don't look at the numbers, look at the curves. And damn, does this girl have some killer curves!
90% of max torque is available from about 3,500 rpm all the way to 6,500 rpm, and that horsepower plateau from 5,500 to over 7,000 is nothing short of drop dead GORGEOUS.
But, even though I know better, I can't resist the urge to push the numbers around, even if they're rough. Magic Tuner Man says that he's guessing 20% drivetrain loss, and that this dyno does tend to read a little low. I was hoping for 400 at the crank, which would be 320 at the wheels (using the assumed 20% loss). My math gives this run at about 365 crank, on an engine that supposedly gave 385 crank hp when new, though this one has 96k miles on it. ~20 hp loss over 96,000 miles and 14 years? Not bad! Especially from a ~$3,000 engine literally pulled from a junkyard. (I think it was something like $2,600, but shipping was a beach.)
And I didn't even factor in the dyno reading a bit low, because it's very difficult to put a number on that, meaning we essentially have an engine that makes roughly what it was factory rated at, a decade a half and nearly 100k miles later.
Even so, 300 wheel hp in 2,400lbs isn't bad. Best news is, transmission seemed to survive!
P.S. The rev limiter is now safely set to 7,800 rpm. We had it at 8k, but decided to play it safe and turn it back down. We wanted a safe and reliable tune, not maximum obtainable power.
Threaded Mode
