"...Not gonna go an faster in this car without taking out your wallet..."

[maytag]

Originally Posted by 78F350

Reminded me of a recent thread on another forum. Too late for you to get the shirt, but the concept represented on the shirt applies: 16 oz = 1 lb.
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/16oz-1lb-im-making-shirts-again/143063/page1/

Ha! I love it!

Does anyone have a simple equation that shows the relationship between weight loss vs HP? As-in: If I lose 100lbs, it's like gaining xx hp"?

[husker boxster]

Interesting thread. Not sure what I can add, but here goes...

I have GT3 LCAs along with Tarett monoball bushings, thrust bushings, and rear toe arms. I have my camber set to -2.5 F & -2.1 R. The track alignment has helped prolong the life of my tires on the track. I run street tires (Conti Extreme Sports) along with stock rotors and Stop Tech Street / Track pads. Since my CSS is both a street and track car, my goal is to keep it as streetable as possible, knowing I will give up some performance on the track. I drive my car to and from the track. My original plan with the track alignment was to set it in the spring and leave it in place during track season, then set it back to stock when I put my snows on and use it as my "winter beater". During the track season, I drive my LE as my daily driver. However, life got in the way as 2 yrs ago my new boss decided I'd become a bad employee and let me go after 35 yrs at Mutual of Omaha. So I decided to just leave the track alignment on full time. I don't drive as much now that I'm "semi-retired", so I don't worry about burning off the inside edges of my snow tires. I discovered the insides haven't worn off very much, even on my summer tires, so it hasn't been expensive to leave the track alignment on.

It's not easy for me to compare times with others. Most of the cars in my local DEs are different than mine. And if there are similar cars, you don't know if they have tunes, or race tires, bigger brakes, etc. It's hard to compare accurately.

I left Indy last mo thinking I had driven it about as well as I could - that I'd reached the limit of my car. I thought about what I could do to reasonably take it mechanically to the next level. My first thought was to improve the brakes. Last summer, a friend of mine let me drive her 2014 CS and the brakes on her car were order of magnitude better than mine. I'm living on a tight budget until Apr next yr, when I turn 60 and will start taking my pension. At that time, I'll think about improving my brakes. That should fit my plan of keeping my car usable on the street while better on the track.

But then I started studying my videos. I've already seen several places I want to do different next yr. I've also studied my bonsai lap to determine why I was faster on that lap vs others. I did make an effort on that lap to set a hot time, so it might have been a 90-95% effort vs my normal 85-90. So maybe it won't be possible to run like that every lap, but there are things I learned, like I could accelerate earlier in certain places w/o kicking in the PSM. The other thing is I can be more consistent with hitting apexes. I will never be a machine and conditions of ea lap dictate where you drive, but being more consistent is a goal. jsceash's suggestion to view track segment data is a good one. I have the data from Indy but haven't run it yet. Have to add that to my To Do list. Bottom line is I thought I'd driven as well as I could, but it didn't take long to find some things to try next yr.

Keep the dialog flowing. Interesting thread.

[MaxD]

Really curious about the cost of the Penske coilovers for the Spec Miata,

I would expect it's going to be simple shock with limited if any adjustment.

No 3 way or 4 way shocks for spec, $$$$

[MWS]

Originally Posted by maytag

Does anyone have a simple equation that shows the relationship between weight loss vs HP? As-in: If I lose 100lbs, it's like gaining xx hp"?

Radium_King once posted "rule of thumb - 10 lbs = 1 hp" in the thread:
lightweight mirrors

Allow myself to quote myself (lol)...from the same thread:

"....I looked at the owners manual for some numbers, listed below (for a base w/ manual transmission):

217 HP ;Weight: between 2777 lbs and 2954 lbs, which I averaged at 2866 lbs; 0-60mph 6.5 sec

Now I understand that these numbers are not scalable, but for giggles, if they were:
2866lbs/6.5sec=441 lbs/sec or 0.002267 sec/lbs.
Given 5 lbs reduction, that would equal just 0.01133 sec reduction on the 0-60 time, or with a car stripped of 100 lbs, an increase of 2/10ths of a second 0-60...which somehow sounds about right (at least to me)....

I should stay away from numbers, and stop asking questions."

And I'll stand by that comment, or at least that I should stay away from numbers

[thstone]

Originally Posted by MWS

Radium_King once posted "rule of thumb - 10 lbs = 1 hp" in the thread:
lightweight mirrors

Lets test it.

Anyone in LA or OC have a stock 986 that they would be willing to use for a couple of 0-60 runs?

I'll bring my Spec Boxster (stock engine and trans) which has been weighed repeatedly at races (2655 lbs with 195 lb driver and 1/8 tank gas).

We can swap cars so we have two sets of data to average out the driver. You'll get to drive a Spec Boxster.

I also have an AIM Solo GPS timer which has a 0-60 mode. It starts counting as soon as motion is detected and stops the time at 60mph.

Then we can do the maths and know roughly what 1lb is worth in terms of 0-60 mph.

Its not perfect, but it will be fun and we'll have a rough order value to banter about.

PM me if interested.