track oriented suspension

[Quadcammer]

99 boxster
running 17" wheels, 17x7, 17x9 225/255 NT01s

Right now I'm on the stock suspension and while actually not bad, its basically shot at this point. So I'm going to piece together some suspension bits for the winter. Here is where I am, please advise if I should do something different. Also note this is a low budget car, so I won't be doing pss9s, kws, or motons.

H&R springs with Bilstein HD sports (B8s)
New stock strut mounts
extra slotting on front strut towers
Megan racing rear toe links (adj)
replace with stock any bad track rods or control arms.

So here are my questions:

1. megan racing says their toe links are for 987s or 996s. But other brands use the same part number for all models, so I'm assuming they are interchangeable?

2. Should I do anything with the tie rod ends?

3. What sort of camber and toe should I be looking for here? Not 100% track, but probably 75% track, 25% street. I'm hoping to avoid buying GT3 coffin arms.

4. Anything else I'm missing?

5. Those rear bars that tie together the rear suspension castings. Useless or no (technobrace is one example)?

Thanks very much

[thstone]

Originally Posted by Quadcammer

1. megan racing says their toe links are for 987s or 996s. But other brands use the same part number for all models, so I'm assuming they are interchangeable?

Contact Megan to confirm that they will work on the 986.

Originally Posted by Quadcammer

2. Should I do anything with the tie rod ends?

Only if worn or damaged.

Originally Posted by Quadcammer

3. What sort of camber and toe should I be looking for here? Not 100% track, but probably 75% track, 25% street. I'm hoping to avoid buying GT3 coffin arms.

You want as much negative camber as you can get. Max stock camber is around -1.0 deg. I don't know how much more you can get by slotting the shock towers, but if you can get around -2.0 deg total, that would probably be all you could ask for (but I don't think that you'll get another full -1.0 deg from the slots).

Originally Posted by Quadcammer

4. Anything else I'm missing?.

- If the shocks are worn, then everything else is worn too. Have you thought about all of the rest of the suspension components?
- Have you considered the M030 set up?
- Depending on your driving level, you might need front adj lower control arms to get enough negative camber in the front.

Originally Posted by Quadcammer

5. Those rear bars that tie together the rear suspension castings. Useless or no (technobrace is one example)?

Your limited budget is better spent elsewhere.

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by Quadcammer

1. megan racing says their toe links are for 987s or 996s. But other brands use the same part number for all models, so I'm assuming they are interchangeable?

2. Should I do anything with the tie rod ends?

I always go to the Tarett website when I am trying to see what suspension parts like these are interchangeable.

Porsche Rear Toe Control Arm Link, 996, 997, 986 & 987

This shows that the toe links for 986/987/996/997 are the same.

Are the Megan toe links priced per pair? If so that seems like a great price.

For the tie rod ends do you mean should you get ones that are adjustable for bumpsteer, like these?

Toe Control Arm (ea), Motorsport Style

I have the rennline version with bumpsteer but that is only because I got a good deal on them secondhand, I have never adjusted the bumpsteer. It is quite a bit more expensive, I would have to let someone else say whether they think you could get a good benefit out of that.

Originally Posted by Quadcammer

3. What sort of camber and toe should I be looking for here? Not 100% track, but probably 75% track, 25% street. I'm hoping to avoid buying GT3 coffin arms.

I can share my settings
Front: -2.5 camber, zero toe. I think you can achieve this with lowering and slotting and won't need GT3 LCA (which I do happen to have, I am at stock height still though with no lowering). You could probably get close to -2 without slotting with just the lowering.

Rear: -1.9 (that is maxed out for me, I was shooting for a -.5 spread between front and back. With lowering you should easily be able to get -2 if desired). Toe, .08 degree of toe in per side, for a total of .16 toe in.

I drive to/from the track, little bit of street driving, and have been getting good wear with this setup. To contrast, before this I was at -2.0 front and -1.6 back and was wearing the outer edges more and not getting as even of tire wear. So far I am pretty even with the new setup.

Right now my track tires look like they are wearing on the inner edge more than the outer edge, but I think that is because they are loaded up with clag and rubber that is filling the little holes that show me the tread (Maxxis RC-1). My most recent event is the first one where I changed tired before driving home, and I think the drive home scrubs all that track rubber away. I'm going to mount them up and go for a little drive around town and see if it cleans them off.

Originally Posted by Quadcammer

5. Those rear bars that tie together the rear suspension castings. Useless or no (technobrace is one example)?

I have the technobrace - I got it early enough in my driver development that I couldn't tell a difference... but from various threads I have read on here (the one about the DIY brace) convinced me it was worthwhile. Also now when I take off the sheet metal brace, the bar holds everything rigid so I don't have to fiddle to get the plate back on...

I'm curious to see what everyone else thinks.

[Quadcammer]

Thanks for the tips gents. Tom, any worn control arms would be replaced for sure.

attached is my current alignment with stock suspension:

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by thstone

- If the shocks are worn, then everything else is worn too. Have you thought about all of the rest of the suspension components?

I didn't even think about that - this is a great point.

There is some stuff that requires you to remove the struts to replace - and those should definitely be replaced when you change your struts - I'm talking about strut top mounts and bump stops. Front strut top mounts you can get Lemforder brand who I think makes the OEM ones, but for the back I've only found the OEM porsche ones which are around $100 each I think. Bump stop rubbers are cheap, and mine were all disintegrated when I changed my struts. The rest of little plates and stuff can be reused. Disclaimer, when I replaced my struts I replaced my front strut top mounts and bump stop rubbers (the bump stops were disintegrated and I could see cracks in the rubber bushings of the front strut top mounts). I didn't replace my back bump stop or back strut top mounts, they were much newer looking and I think had been replaced by the prior owner after an accident

All the the other control arms and sway bar bushings and things, you can evaluate on as needed basis and replace without having to take too much else off.

[Quadcammer]

yup, that all is included in my plans.

I can get the H&R and bilsteins for $1k delivered, so compared to pss9s or the other real expensive stuff, its pretty affordable.

And $1k is 2 or 3 DE registration fees.

[Quadcammer]

ok, I'm proceeding with the H&r springs and bilstein B8 HDs.

I confirmed that the 996 and 986 use the same rear toe arm, so I will order the megan racing piece.

I am also replacing all the coffin arms, the strut mounts, and any of the track arms that are shot.

[edc]

If you are going to replace the top mounts then think about getting some adjustable ones.

[Quadcammer]

eh, $500 for camber plates isn't in the cards right now. I'll just slot the strut tower.

[Topless]

Get GT3 A-arms while you are in there. They will allow you to use ALL of your front tires and greatly reduce tire wear. They will pay for themselves in one season of tire savings. It's a no-brainer.

Also have your car corner balanced and aligned by a Porsche performance shop with lots of setup experience. It will transform your car.

[MaxD]

I echo Topless - get the GT3 arms. Slotting the tower wont get you the camber you need.

[steved0x]

He's lowered with the new springs/struts so combined with 5mm or so of slotting (I think the limit is 10mm because then the nose of the strut top hits the car body), I bet he can get to -2.5 which seems to be good (for me anyway ) with 200 TW tires and even Nitto NT-01 and the like.

To get to -3 or more, the GT 3 arms would let you get there.

I'm running -2.5 and liking it pretty good (GT3 LCA, top mounts offset 10mm, stock ride height) and I could probably go to -3 with my current config, and if I added a few shims I could probably get -3.5.

Edit: with all that said, note that I do have the GT3 LCA and I bought them after shredding yet another set of front tires... If there is just 1 mod to do, that is it Combined with other mods like lowering, they could be put off for a while I bet... They are $$$. They do come up used from time to time and some good deals to be had. The new SPC ones for $700 a pair seem like they might be pretty good. If I could travel back in time I woulld keep an eye out for a set of the Elephant LCA, they are sweet

[Quadcammer]

I acknowlwdge gt3 control arms would be preferrable, but the cheapest i can find them is like 700 and not only do i have 2 other needy porkers, i got a question i gotta ask a lovely lady in the near future, so im trying to do this on a mega budget. Im still a blue, probably white soon student, so i dont need that last 10th

[Topless]

GT3 arms are simply taking the long view for a track setup. If they save you 1 set of front tires every season they will pay for themselves quickly. It also gives your setup guys ultimate flexibility to get your setup exactly right. I was in your shoes and didn’t do this on my Boxster and paid dearly with shredded outer shoulders on my front tires. On my 987.2 I did this right away and now see a huge difference in tire wear.

Saving $$ is always good, but sometimes paying a bit more up front will save 10 fold over time. I can only give you the benefit of my and many others experience. Your $$ and your choice.

[rastta]

I currently run 3 degrees of camber with plates and stock control arms. Tops are slotted as well slightly. I do want to move to adjustable control arms though - but I can't see spending near $1000 on GT3 arms - additional money on shims and then extra if I want to remove the rubber centers and ends - not to mention the fact that the ball joints aren't rebuildable.

In looking at all the options - I'd probably opt for Elephant racing's adjustable arms. Yes they are more expensive at $1190 a set - but fully rebuildable - offer infinite adjustment without shims and have boots over the bearings and ball joints. Do most go GT3 arms because spec boxster rules only allow them?

[Topless]

Pick your poison.

I chose Porsche GT3 arms because that is what comes on a GT3 Cup car. No bling, just proven technology putting cars in the winner's circle all over the world. My setup shop does a LOT of track car setup and this is the choice they recommend over aftermarket alternatives. I really didn't bother shopping anything else for my 987.2. Working good so far...

YMMV

[edc]

Eibach do the adjustable lower arms too.

[Quadcammer]

I did not see any eibach arms for the 986.

I appreciate your input gents, but if I can get 2.5 degrees negative camber up front with slotted towers, then thats the route I will be going.

I know gt3 arms are a better solution, but for right now that won't happen.

[edc]

You probably won't quite get -2.5 unless you lower the car. I understand US cars are higher than UK/Europe ones so I can get it reasonably easily on old saggy M030 suspension and lowered suspension.

[JayG]

I get 2.2 deg front with Tarrett camber plates and a M030 ROW setup.
IIRC, there may be other camber plates that can give you a smidgen more