harness reduction

[Medsurf]

looking to clean up my harness during my conversion.
I already removed all the airbags.
Can I delete the control module and the wiring as well?

Thanks

[itsnotanova]

I deleted my airbags and control module on my street car. I'd imagine you could also remove all the associated wiring for a race car too

[Medsurf]

Did you have bypass the module somehow? I read that if you don't have the module plugged in, the car won't start. Something about not sending a signal to the DME and activating the fuel pump.

[Medsurf]

How did you bypass the module?

[itsnotanova]

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but i believe the "airbag control module" is a box not much bigger than a pack of cigarettes and is located right in front of the shifter. Now if you're talking about the immobilizer, i believe only some of the very early cars can have it removed. It takes some custom wiring to accomplish that though.

[Medsurf]

correct, I was talking about the airbag module.
I was left with one wire going to the DME and Alarm Control unit and another wire going to the ignition switch.
I disconnected them, plugged the harness in and car started.
Turns out you can start the car without it without altering the wiring.

[Qmulus]

Yes, you can remove the airbag module and all wiring, that won't be a major weight or complexity savings by itself and it would be a real PITA to do with the harness in the car. If you are converting the car to a race car, pull the main and rear harness and then go to town. The top wiring, radio, interior lights, cruise control, door wiring, seat wiring, climate control, etc., etc. all can go. Personally, if you are not going to remove the whole harness, I would not bother. Just remove the bags and the module.

For what it is worth, thinning the harness down to the bare minimum takes me about 20 hours with the harnesses out of the car, and I have done this on 10+ Boxsters for spec racing. That is with all my notes and knowing what can be removed and what needs to stay. Everything is depinned and removed and the only cuts are at factory splices, which are replaced where necessary. This ends up being just like a factory 996 Cup car, which is basically what we patterned the electrical system off of. If you are doing it yourself to that level, figure 50+ hours and you will have a few wires that you don't need (especially fusebox feed wires, which weigh a lot). That is my BTDT. I leave in most lighting and a couple other systems that aren't needed in an absolutely basic system. This also does not include moving the fuse box or immo which I would recommend. Double my numbers if you are adding in telemetry, battery cutoff, etc. The weight savings over not thinning the wiring is about 15lb with clips, brackets, etc., but the big advantage is in the simplicity and reliability.

[78F350]

To augment what Qmulus said, here's some pics I took of the harness from an '01:
Wire Harness Pictorial, 2001 base

[Medsurf]

Thanks for feedback already.

So i am making a dedicated track car. Im going for PCA stock f class as i have a boxster S.
AC, Radio deleted, Doors gutted, interior lighting, power windows/locks and all there wiring removed so far.
I was debating of removing the whole harness but so far its not that bad with it just unwound. My concerns are when we have wires going to the alarm control unit.
What is absolutely necessary for the alarm control unit to stay functional?
Plus i am installing a 6 pole kill switch -> is okay to interrupt it between the DME relay fuse and the DME relay?

Time isn't a matter as this is a hobby and i enjoy it. Rather get it right instead of just alright.

[lmnsblu355]

Originally Posted by Medsurf

Thanks for feedback already.

So i am making a dedicated track car. Im going for PCA stock f class as i have a boxster S.
AC, Radio deleted, Doors gutted, interior lighting, power windows/locks and all there wiring removed so far.
I was debating of removing the whole harness but so far its not that bad with it just unwound. My concerns are when we have wires going to the alarm control unit.
What is absolutely necessary for the alarm control unit to stay functional?
Plus i am installing a 6 pole kill switch -> is okay to interrupt it between the DME relay fuse and the DME relay?

Time isn't a matter as this is a hobby and i enjoy it. Rather get it right instead of just alright.

What year is your Boxster S? I have a 2004 and for F stock, minimum weight is 3060 lbs. I have 2 seats in the car, working power windows / climate control still in (No AC), Chromolly full cage, factory aluminum top, big heavy stock battery and I still need 115 lbs of ballast to make minimum weight!!!! I am actually going to add to my cage this winter to decrease the need for ballast weight.

I suggest you weigh your car and make sure you are not already under minimum weight.