Nice finish Tom and those times are screamin' when considering the ambient temps. Bravo!

:cheers:

Congrats on the podium finish, Tom. Only one more step to go! ;)

I know what you mean about being spent after racing in the heat. How much weight did you lose during the race?

Just wonderin'...........

TO

Congrats on the podium finish!

I didn't weigh myself but I woke up Sunday morning with a screaming headache and was probably still somewhat dehydrated despite drinking water and Gatorade all day and evening on Saturday. I finally felt back to normal around noon on Sunday. Glad that I took the day off because it was even hotter on Sunday.

Congrats on reaching the Podium.
Your consistent, persistent and hard work is paying off.

Now that your in the spotlight you need the fancier driving suit for the trophy girls to cling to for picture time.
What else are you going to have to ask how to do when climbing the Podium? :D


Do the 260 & 235 tires fit on the stock 17" rims or are they a different size rim?

Thanks and yes, it has been a lot of work to get here! Funny, you mention a new driving suit because I was looking at those just last week - not so much to please the podium girls but it seems that the new suits are supposed to be quite a bit cooler than the suit that I have now.

Spec Boxster requires 235/40/17 front and 255/40/17 rear tires on stock 17x7J front and 17x8.5J rear stock Boxster wheels. The tires fit just fine.

This morning I went to a local coffee meet with a bunch of fellow Porsche enthusiasts. This meet is put together and attended by mostly air cooled car owners with the early long hood 911 being the most popular.

One of the coolest cars at the meet is owned by a friend whose car happens to be the very first R Gruppe car (below). This car was featured in a story written by fellow 986Forum member Little "t" on Petrolicious (This Is the Car that Inspired the Porsche R-Gruppe).

If you're not familiar with the R Gruppe, it was founded about 15 years ago to celebrate early 911 cars built for what Porsche referred to as 'The Sports Purpose". It is popularized by owners hot rodding their early 911's using the Porsche Sport Manual as their bible - a catalog of factory early 911 rally and racing parts.

The R-Gruppe is invitation only and is highly polarizing within the greater Porsche community. Automobile Magazine said this:

"To the august Porsche Club of America, R Gruppe is populated by a bunch of yahoos with no respect for tradition. To the hard-core racers who dominate the Porsche Owners Club, R Gruppe is full of poseurs who'd rather look fast than go fast. To early 911 aficionados who haven't been invited to join the club, R Gruppe is a gated community reserved for arrogant snobs. To high-dollar collectors, R Gruppe provides a prescription for replicars and fakey-doos that cost more to build than they're worth on the open market."

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...ps20c093a6.jpg


As a card carrying POC/PCA hard-core racer, what do I show up in? Yep, you guessed it!

And by and large, they loved it. Porsche fanatics are Porsche fanatics regardless of the car.

Even a water-cooled hair dressers Boxster. :)

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...pscee9bd1a.jpg

Thats cool, but a bunch of folks celebrating the racing rally history of Porsche is fantastic.

I can't think of anything more Porsche like and traditional than to go rally or race one with what ever parts you can fit.

I think that the others are just jealous that its by invitation and they weren't invited.

Some folks buy a Porsche as a status symbol, but others buy them cause they are fun to rally and race.

Thats interesting trivia. Never heard of R-Gruppe or the Porsche Sport Manual.
I'll have to google and find out more.

Thanks

Here are a couple of pic's from my 2nd Place finish in the POC race at Willow Springs two weeks ago...

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2c22538d.jpg

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0542db29.jpg

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...psd7713bf2.jpg

Its "brakes" time again before the PCA race at Willow Springs on the 27th/28th! I replace the brakes about twice a year with the schedule that I'm running.

I knew that the pads were about ready for replacement so I ordered all of the parts beforehand. It was also time for the yearly brake fluid flush and bleed.

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...ps48b39a73.jpg

This is one of the front pads - definitely ready for replacement! You can see where its worn through the hole for the brake wear sensor (which I do not use because they melt).
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...psdf018a0e.jpg


This picture shows the difference in thickness between the worn pad and the new one! This is the result of 12 track days. Another thing to note is that the old pad (greyish yellow green) started out the same bright yellow as the new pad! These pads literally get baked enough to change the pad paint color after being out on the racetrack!
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1883edb5.jpg


Here is my set up for flushing the fluid and bleeding the brakes - the long lug posts make a handy holder for the catch can. The long lug posts are used on most race cars to make tire/wheel changes easier (no more holding the wheel on those 3 small hub tabs while you try to line up the lug holes). For the brake fluid, I use the Motive power bleeder and it works great.
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1c9c2969.jpg

Here is a pic of the old fluid (left) and the new fluid (right)! Wow, what a difference. I use ATE Type 200 Gold. It works great and is reasonably priced.
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...ps56286a4a.jpg\


I think that I'll change the oil this weekend and then I'll be ready to race in two weeks!

hey - wondering what you spec guys use for a rear tow hook - a 996 rear or a 986 front? rennline doesn't list a rear 986 tow hook. thanks.

I like this one. It retracts and is not a hazard for smashing your shin accidentally. I am not sure where I purchased it but I think it was $95 at the time. It bolts into the frame rail so it requires removal of the interior bumper bar (which is de rigeur for weight loss anyway).
Retractable Tow Hook for Porsche 911 & Boxster By Patrick Motorsports Porsche & Mid Engine Performance Specialists
https://patrickms.s3.amazonaws.com/p...etractable.jpg

I still have some photos of installing it on my SPB here. You just cut a slot in the bumper for it. An exacto knife will cut through the bumper pretty easily.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/bombaydigital/

cool - fronts are same length as backs. thanks.

As Trygve said ^^^^^

Here is a pic of the install on my car.

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...ps740c100e.jpg

Sorry that I haven't updated this thread in awhile. There has been a LOT going on and I was waiting for everything to shake out.

** CAUTION ** TURN BACK NOW ** GRAPHIC ENGINE FAILURE PIC'S ** YOU WERE WARNED **

Unfortunately, my engine failed again during the first practice session at the PCA Willow Springs race. The engine suffered a catastrophic rod bearing failure. Since the complete rebuild in August, it only had 300-400 miles of street/freeway driving and 1.2 hrs of track time.

This was my 3rd engine failure in 5 months. To review; the first failure was in May - lifter failure. The engine was rebuilt but failed in June due to another lifter failure. Then the engine was then entirely rebuilt again in August using brand new lifters and lifter carriers to prevent a repeat of failure #2.

From my point of view while driving, it felt like the engine was low on power exiting Turn 3 and going up the hill into Turn 4. After coming down the hill and through Turns 5 and 6, the engine made a big bad noise, immediately shutdown, and spewed oil all over the track before the Turn 7 kink. The time between noticing low power and total engine failure was around 20 seconds.

This engine was a total loss (not rebuildable). And no, there isn't any warranty on engines used for racing. Ouch. That hurt. $eriously hurt.

As a result of the down time from engine failures #1 and #2, I had previously decided that I couldn't stand to be down for months due to an engine failure so I had already purchased a used engine (92K mile Tip) as a backup - I just didn't plan to need it quite this soon!

But being prepared for just this occurrence meant that the used engine could be swapped into the car in a couple of weeks rather than waiting 2+ months for a rebuild.

I specifically chose a high mileage Tip engine for two reasons; one, if the IMS made it this far, it is probably ok. Two, my theory is that Tip drivers may not rev the engine as much as a typical manual driver so the engine may have had a little easier life.

I plan to have the used engine dyno tested to see how the power compares to the original and rebuilt engines and will report back.

The replacement engine was also fairly cheap (around $4K including the labor to perform the swap) as compared to a full professional rebuild ($14K+).

With all of that being said, this update ends with the car running again and ready for more action. :D

Stay tuned for a special announcement coming in early December regarding 2015...



Intermix coming out the intake ports is never a good sign....
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9f0c21e0.jpg


Lots of debris in the pan...
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...psa95e8ada.jpg


Missing a nice big piece of the cylinder and the case (directly above the missing cylinder)...
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...psd7dda133.jpg


Broken camshaft, bent valves...
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...psb201b2be.jpg


This is what was left of the rod and piston...
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...pse0b43beb.jpg


Crankshaft damage indicates a rod bearing failure...
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6d84fb33.jpg

Whoa that hurts!!
I should have paid attention to the warning, but I had to see it...
Any insight on the possible cause of the rod bearing failure?
Sorry to hear about the kaput, but good that you have another engine lined up already.

Unfortunately, with damage that severe it's impossible to know the cause.

I am finding that racing tests your level of commitment in many ways and some of them aren't on the track. No one said that racing would be easy and this is one more example of how racing is often seen as a microcosm of life.

Glad that this is behind me and really looking forward to 2015!

I didn't see it mentioned, what oiling system mods do you have ?

Eeeeesh! That sucks the joy out of racing. Sorry Tom.

I do think "plan B" is wise though. When a motor grenades it stresses, wears, and deforms in unexpected ways and shiny bits get into everything, everywhere. A sound used motor with clean oil is not a 100% sure thing but probably a lot more certain than one that has been a metallic sausage grinder. I went through this in an earlier life with both a 350 Chevy and Ford 351 motors.

Best wishes for 2015 my friend!

The engine had an EBS sump baffle but otherwise is stock. No Accusump. But I am seriously looking at options.

Thanks and yes, my thinking is that it was time to start over with an engine with only street use and no previous metal processing! I am hoping that this engine will last as long as my previous stock engine.

Wow that hurts. Three in one season is just crazy! Any over revs? What was did different about your previous engine/car? Diff. tires and tracks?

I never really understood the EBS baffle's specific value other than being metal and the incorp. of the small baffle sections....I guess I would have to get my hands there to see how it fits up. There is no reserve oil volume and it would appear oil can still "climb" the baffle walls. I would think a trapped volume oil via a windage tray (horizontal baffle and vert. baffles would be the way to go with a deep sump as big as your ground clearance goes...then Accusump? Anyway there a few good sumps on the market now.

Ahh I know a guy....think he looses an engine a season (M97)chasing mustangs and camaros....high revs then boom

The more I learn, the less I know.

It seems that the only way to be sure of maintaining oil pressure (to the largest extent) is to use an EPC-based Accusump system. Anything less will leave open a window of uncertainty. Baffles, windage trays, deep sumps, etc. are all steps in the right direction but they don't seem to guarantee what an Accusump can.

The other concern not yet mentioned in this discussion is oil temp and film strength. It appears to be critical to never let the oil get too hot. Thus, I am looking into a data logging system that can provide temp alerts and possibly an external oil cooler.

I'll have to continue researching these subjects. Right now, not exactly sure what to do.

I lost a 944 engine within accusump

We've been lucky since adding an oil cooler and running amsoil.

Is that the key? I don't know.

My next plan for my boxster s is an oil cooler and low temp
Thermostat.

Not sure I'll go all the way to an accusump.

Mike

Thanks for the input Mike! My car already has a low temp t-stat. I am also looking at oil coolers and saw your post in the Spec Boxster area on Rennlist. Let me know if you learn something that doesn't get posted.

I'm going to be the one to show my ignorance and ask: can you add the 3rd center radiator? Would that help keep things cooler, including the oil?

That is a perfectly good question! :cheers:

I have a few thoughts on the center (3rd) radiator;

One, I worry that using the coolant to lower the oil temps is hugely inefficient. Seems like direct oil cooling would be best. But you bring up a really good point.

Second, the 3rd radiator adds weight that would need to be removed somewhere else. Ok, so remove some weight somewhere else - I hear you.

Third, in my experience the 3rd radiator may not be enough. On days when the coolant temps in my car were getting too high, the same was happening to the cars with the 3rd radiator. So I wonder if the 3rd radiator is really worth the weight and expense. This one is a little harder to sort out.

Thanks for the input and I will certainly re-look at the 3rd radiator as I sort this out...

What about a dedicated oil cooler in the 3rd radiator spot? Or do you lose too much pressure with a long run like that? I seem like I remember reading folks have a hard time adding oil coolers due to space constraints?

Exactly right; the worry about running an external cooler in the front is the pressure loss over that distance. I am looking to see what might mount in the rear to keep the distance minimized.

Need to see if I can find it again, but I saw a nice looking setup
Where they ran an accusump and remote oil filter in the trunk and
Two coolers in the rear bumper area, one for oil and one for tranny.

Not that I want more weight in the back...

I wouldn't run the oil cooler up front, although
That is what my RSR does, but 911s are used to pushing oil to the dry sump
And it does help with weight distribution.

My S already has the 3rd radiator.

I've seen a setup that deletes the oil/water radiator on top of the block and takes the oil from there for circulation, however I think most take it off the filter housing.

I'll look for the pictures of that setup.
I had sent a q about a turnkey system but got no response.

I'm also considering a forced air setup in the triangle
In the bracing are near tranny, but not in love with oil cooling near exhaust
But that maybe no different than rear bumper

FOUND IT --- to me this looks like a pretty sweet setup.

http://www.dartauto.com/projects/2013/8/20/spec-boxster-accusump-and-transmission-oil-cooler/


Mike

RE: oil cooler setup

Have a look a McDuff's ext. cooler in the rear trunk. It may be overkill but data on temps and pressures looked really good at Chuckie last month in 95F ambient. I was pretty impressed with his results. Not sure if his setup meets current BSR rules though.

Meanwhile another accusump-equipped car developed rod knock. Accusump looks like it is batting about 220 so far this season.

I think a Accusump quickly runs out of oil under sustained cornering/oil starvation. Isn't the best solution (and the most money) still adding a scavange pump to the other cylinder bank, in addition to a deep baffled sump and extended pickup ? A water/oil heat exchanger would also be a great idea.

What is the pumping rate of the oil pump? Accusump typically has 3 qts under
about 60psi.

I wonder if the pickup sucks air -- which drops the pressure -- but now you
are shipping around aerated oil as well as your pressure drop?

I wonder if there is something to temperature, aeration, and oil starvation
that comes into play at the same time.

Mike

Gents- my $.02 cents for what it's worth.

As topless mentioned I had an external oil cooler added to the rear trunk of my car ( capacity and efficiency of the cooler was conveyed to me to be 4x the efficacy of the stock S cooler) I had motec data analysis before and after the addition of the cooler. Additionally I had some oil pan baffle mods done by Dwain at Vision Motorsports and have before and after data. My oil temps before the cooler in the warmer weather were topping 250 degrees and engine temps were topping 210. Usually toward the mid to end of a 20 minute session. Additionally I was having oil pressure issues in a few corners at WSIR and AA speedway. With the addition of the cooler, oil pan mods I was running 25-30 degrees cooler in back to back events in September at WSIR and ambient temps were pretty similar. Additionally oil pressures improved quite a bit. My engine temps never topped 195 degrees where previously they had topped 210. I have all the data to support these changes and conclusions. I've had the oil tested twice also since these changes and it came back clean. This also included a day on the AA speedway roval. As Topless mentioned data from CVR where it was pretty warm again was really good.

I like Tom have been through a motor in the last year so we'll see how this one holds up with these mods. Initial signs look good.

This supports what I have found holds our 944 engine together in Chumps.
Before adding an oil cooler -- we went through several engines. Accusump didn't matter.

Do you have pictures of your installation? Do you have a build sheet we might be able to mimic?

thanks,

Mike

I knew that was going to be the next question....

Give me a few days and I will get some good pics of the cooler and the specs off the invoice. I think the most compelling thing was the oil pressure differences and my gut tells me that is the baffle mods that were done. I just had a stock EBS baffle and I was having pressure problems in a few corners at WSIR and then after the baffle mods and oil cooler they were gone. Pressures before got in to the mid to high teens in the problem corners and then I never got below 30-35 in the same places. I know that you have to be really careful and also analyze if I was on or off the throttle at those times also when making that determination. When I overlaid laps from before and after the pressure problem I had no less than 4000 RPM's in those same corners. Of particular note I have also learned it is important to know where those temperature readings are coming from and also where the pressure is read. I had an extra sensor installed and it reads these temps/pressures from the main bearing. It is my understanding that the stock sensor reads them from the oil pan.

That being said...I am by no means a Motec expert and am still a rookie in this hobby/sport and learning every day/time on the track. There are many others on this forum that know WAY more than I ever will. These are just my "rookie" findings. I know there are a ton of variables and nobody has the exact answer to this problem.

I want everyone to know I'm not an expert or claim to be one. Just want to share what I have learned about this issue thus far. I was fortunate to have a data system in the car before and after to make these comparisons.

I will follow up with some pictures and the specs on the oil cooler shortly.

Clarification -- I'm running the EBS baffle -- just wondering what you mean by stock EBS? I also have a 0.5qt deeper sump with a pickup extension.

thanks,

Mike

I'm not a spec driver But have been using an accusump setup deep sump and stainless windage baffles for almost 3 seasons, Mine is a 2 quart tank. I have data on 2 oil pressure point. One at the tank and the other at the port on the bank 1 head where the pressure switch normally mounts. I do not see pressure below 70 on the tank and 60 on the motor while on track. I am seeing 240-250 degree oil temps. I'm interested in additional oil cooling above the S engine mount cooler.

http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMG_10341.jpg

Just curious to see what your post track idle pressures are? I've seen mine drop below 15psi...

I snapped my temp sender post (ugh!!! and I am reordering a sender) so I don't have temp values yet).

Mike

Yes, I've seen Chris's trunk mounted cooler. That thing blows like a ... uh, tornado. Unfortunately, not legal for BSR/SPB.