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Old 05-23-2013, 11:34 AM   #1
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new boxster owner. Q on BSR build.

hi all,

i recently bought a 98 boxster. she's quite a gem with 39k miles on the clock and well maintained by previous owner.
I want to gradually build the car to BSR. Thus, I want to run the car thru DE first and get acquainted with it. Been running a GT3 for the past 5 years and want to put that into "retirement" due to running cost.

My first order of business is to put in a full cage. The car already have an OEM hardtop and am trying to solicit people who are currently BSR owners on which path I should go as there are aftermarket hardtops out there that are much lighter than OEM. pros and cons would be appreciated.

anyone have a BSR running OEM hardtop?
is it possible to design a full cage based on the OEM hardtop and still be able to fit an aftermarket top like GTracing or Sheridan w/o compromising safety.

thanks in advance. pics of the car. attached.


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Old 05-23-2013, 01:14 PM   #2
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Wow, great looking Boxster!
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Old 05-23-2013, 02:40 PM   #3
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All of the Spec Boxsters that I know (including the one that I am building right now) are running the lightweight aftermarket hardtop. The stock top is way too heavy and it puts the weight in the worst place possible (up high).
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Old 05-23-2013, 05:46 PM   #4
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Some BSR cars do indeed run the Porsche OEM hardtop... generally not the ones on the podium though.

The aftermarket top weighs 1/2, and a cage will work with either as they have the same profile per class rules.
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Old 05-23-2013, 06:01 PM   #5
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Hmm... aero kit I. That makes it a rare box indeed !
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Old 05-23-2013, 06:26 PM   #6
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cool! welcome!

Joe, we have a good bunch of nor cal SPB cars and drivers now. I sort of went through the same process as you, with my daily driver bought new, turned DE then TT then track car / race car, and then finally SPB to start 2012.

If you are on Facebook, shoot me a PM with your info and I'll add you to the BSR group there and you can meet the locals. We'll be at Buttonwillow this weekend and Laguna Seca June 21-23.

The factory top should be gutted, and if combined with a Lexan rear window won't be too heavy. However, the fiberglas tops are better and if you are a bit patient you can probably sell your factory top for as much as a fiberglass top & window will cost. Since you are not in a hurry I'd recommend the Sheridan top since it is a noticeably better "fit and finish" than the GT Racing top. You must wear arm restraints if running a non-factory top.

The nor cal go-to guy for cages is Tony Colicchio at TC Design in Milpitas. He's done many and gets the cage nice and tight up against the a-pillars, etc. for more driver space. Tony actually asked me whether I was going factory or fiberglas because he could push a little more space with the fiberglas, I think because even a gutted factory top takes a little more space inside somewhere.

I did nearly all of the stripping of the car myself in my garage, so I can answer questions on that topic pretty well. My car was just 25 lbs over minimum on the PCA scales at COTA recently, so for a driver cooling system's weight to be "free", I need to drop 40 lbs more.
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Old 05-23-2013, 06:36 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Flavor 987S View Post
Wow, great looking Boxster!
thanks! that's what i said when i saw the seller's ad. immediately called him up and bought the car sight unseen. needless to say, the seller did not disappoint.


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Originally Posted by thstone View Post
All of the Spec Boxsters that I know (including the one that I am building right now) are running the lightweight aftermarket hardtop. The stock top is way too heavy and it puts the weight in the worst place possible (up high).
that's what i thought. oem hardtop is heavy and at the worst spot. which aftermarket hardtop are you using for your build and how is the fitment?



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Some BSR cars do indeed run the Porsche OEM hardtop... generally not the ones on the podium though.

The aftermarket top weighs 1/2, and a cage will work with either as they have the same profile per class rules.
yeah not looking for podium right now. hahaha. just taking it easy first thru DE. if i could get away with a full cage design with the OEM hardtop and later on replace it with aftermarket hardtop if that's all it takes to get me to podium LOL. the other mods inline are deep sump, baffle kit, and AOS before i put her on the track. been reading up on this forum. thanks to those who posted valuable info.



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Hmm... aero kit I. That makes it a rare box indeed !
thanks. i like the look of this aero kit I. so that's what it is huh. i'm not sure it's 'legal' for BSR. may have to put the aero kit at some point.
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Old 05-23-2013, 06:51 PM   #8
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Joe, we have a good bunch of nor cal SPB cars and drivers now. I sort of went through the same process as you, with my daily driver bought new, turned DE then TT then track car / race car, and then finally SPB to start 2012.

If you are on Facebook, shoot me a PM with your info and I'll add you to the BSR group there and you can meet the locals. We'll be at Buttonwillow this weekend and Laguna Seca June 21-23.

The factory top should be gutted, and if combined with a Lexan rear window won't be too heavy. However, the fiberglas tops are better and if you are a bit patient you can probably sell your factory top for as much as a fiberglass top & window will cost. Since you are not in a hurry I'd recommend the Sheridan top since it is a noticeably better "fit and finish" than the GT Racing top. You must wear arm restraints if running a non-factory top.

The nor cal go-to guy for cages is Tony Colicchio at TC Design in Milpitas. He's done many and gets the cage nice and tight up against the a-pillars, etc. for more driver space. Tony actually asked me whether I was going factory or fiberglas because he could push a little more space with the fiberglas, I think because even a gutted factory top takes a little more space inside somewhere.

I did nearly all of the stripping of the car myself in my garage, so I can answer questions on that topic pretty well. My car was just 25 lbs over minimum on the PCA scales at COTA recently, so for a driver cooling system's weight to be "free", I need to drop 40 lbs more.

thanks trygve. wow you and your car thru and thru since new. awesome!
i've been wondering where the norcal bsr group are hiding in the forums. i see fairly good field when running with pca-ggr. it's one of the main reasons why i want to do bsr. my gt3 buddies will be at BW this weekend. unfortunately, i won't be able to make it.

i spoke with TC and he mention exactly as you say about oem vs. GT racing. looks like i will be putting up the OEM hardtop for sale. hope it sells fast 'cos i don't have room to store the top. i will be stripping the car myself as well. i'll hit you up with a pm. thanks!
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:56 PM   #9
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Good info on tops. I eventually will take the same route and get a fiberglass one.
Wonder if anyone is familiar with the top from Texas Performance Concepts. The price is good, but not sure about quality and fit.
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Old 05-23-2013, 08:54 PM   #10
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What the!! GT3 retired? Never thought I would see the day.

Have fun building the BSR and look forward to harass you with my civic
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Old 05-24-2013, 05:59 AM   #11
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I would build the cage properly under the lightweight top. You will be able to build a taller cage (safer!) and also plan on mounting the top during the cage build. If you build the cage under the factory top, you will lose headroom and ultimately safety. Selling the factory hard top can also fund a lightweight top plus extras.

I'm awaiting a top from Sheridan for a cage build right now, as we won't even start building until we have a roof to snug the cage up against.
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Old 05-24-2013, 04:27 PM   #12
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What the!! GT3 retired? Never thought I would see the day.

Have fun building the BSR and look forward to harass you with my civic
yeah mike part of the excitement will be building the car. going to diy as much as i can to save a few bucks.
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Old 05-24-2013, 04:36 PM   #13
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I would build the cage properly under the lightweight top. You will be able to build a taller cage (safer!) and also plan on mounting the top during the cage build. If you build the cage under the factory top, you will lose headroom and ultimately safety. Selling the factory hard top can also fund a lightweight top plus extras.

I'm awaiting a top from Sheridan for a cage build right now, as we won't even start building until we have a roof to snug the cage up against.
thanks for the sage advice. I went and ordered GT racing hardtop and scheduling the full cage build with TC Design. can't wait!

meanwhile, have some stripping to do. started with the oem hardtop and softtop off.



taking a peak at the engine...
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Old 05-26-2013, 04:11 PM   #14
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As someone who also went "backwards" from DEing a GT3 to building and then club racing a Specbox I can probably offer plenty of advice along the road. Do not hesitate to email me at Laurence.jitts@att.net if I can be of any help. I will also put you in touch with Texas spec Boxsters on Facebook.

Couple of quick things. Be prepared that the front bumper and rear spoiler have to go. And (although it looks like you already have a plan) ditch the top and go for a lightweight roof. You can sell yours for more than you'll pay for the replacement and you'll loose the easiest weight from the best place.

Before you start read the rules many, many times. They are really clear and list exactly what you can do. It also by default tells you what you can't do - that is, anything that it doesn't say you can do. If in doubt ask someone who has been through it before. Can't speak for California but the Texas racers I have met (and that's most of them) are all the most generous I have ever met in every regard - that is until it's race time.

Enjoy, Laurie
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:02 AM   #15
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As someone who also went "backwards" from DEing a GT3 to building and then club racing a Specbox I can probably offer plenty of advice along the road. Do not hesitate to email me at Laurence.jitts@att.net if I can be of any help. I will also put you in touch with Texas spec Boxsters on Facebook.

Couple of quick things. Be prepared that the front bumper and rear spoiler have to go. And (although it looks like you already have a plan) ditch the top and go for a lightweight roof. You can sell yours for more than you'll pay for the replacement and you'll loose the easiest weight from the best place.

Before you start read the rules many, many times. They are really clear and list exactly what you can do. It also by default tells you what you can't do - that is, anything that it doesn't say you can do. If in doubt ask someone who has been through it before. Can't speak for California but the Texas racers I have met (and that's most of them) are all the most generous I have ever met in every regard - that is until it's race time.

Enjoy, Laurie
i was prepared to replace the rear deck+spoiler but the front bumper too?
oh well... i've started stripping!
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Old 05-27-2013, 01:17 PM   #16
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i was prepared to replace the rear deck+spoiler but the front bumper too?
oh well... i've started stripping!
Have fun with the stripping. Don't stop till you have a garbage bag full of ~30lbs of unused wire and plugs (and I'm not kidding).

I'm afraid they are specific about the acceptable bumpers - see rules. I'm pretty sure that yours has an aero special of some sort - correct me if I'm mistaken about that.
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:51 PM   #17
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Have fun with the stripping. Don't stop till you have a garbage bag full of ~30lbs of unused wire and plugs (and I'm not kidding).

I'm afraid they are specific about the acceptable bumpers - see rules. I'm pretty sure that yours has an aero special of some sort - correct me if I'm mistaken about that.
i'm told it's an aero kit I. i'll keep it on for as long as possible.
i think i've shed about 200 lbs so far. holy crap the seats were heavy. 48 lbs each!
i weighed the car before stripping. starting weight was roughly 3000 lbs. +/- 20
that was with both softtop and oem hardtop on.
i'm going to weight it again ones i taken most of the interior out.
i may just leave the wires in for now.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:49 AM   #18
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i may just leave the wires in for now.
Joe -
IMHO, the wires will be easier to get to before the cage goes in. Also, I think the dash usually comes out as part of the cage install, that will also make the wires more available.

FWIW, I went from tracking a street car to tracking a SPB. The things I miss most (other than 100 HP) are side windows, E-brake, and door locks. I'm in the east where it rains from time to time and I tow with an open trailer - which affect my opinion. I suggest them as things to consider keeping for a while until you are ready for racing, although the windows may interfere with the cage.

Have fun with the build and keep us posted!

Last edited by spendy; 05-30-2013 at 09:55 AM.
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Old 06-02-2013, 12:02 PM   #19
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Joe -
IMHO, the wires will be easier to get to before the cage goes in. Also, I think the dash usually comes out as part of the cage install, that will also make the wires more available.

FWIW, I went from tracking a street car to tracking a SPB. The things I miss most (other than 100 HP) are side windows, E-brake, and door locks. I'm in the east where it rains from time to time and I tow with an open trailer - which affect my opinion. I suggest them as things to consider keeping for a while until you are ready for racing, although the windows may interfere with the cage.

Have fun with the build and keep us posted!

thanks for the tip spendy. i also have an open trailer so yeah the windows will be helpful in case i get caught up in a rain trailering. i'll check with my cage builder. i'm also keeping the e-brake.
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Old 06-03-2013, 10:49 AM   #20
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strip progress

explosives:


cleanup these adhesive leftovers from the sound deadening stuff for your cage builder.



need to tidy up wires and then she's off to my cage builder!
keeping the side windows for now. i think!



i have a bunch of interior stuff that's either going for free if you're local.
some will be up for sale like the below items.
ping me if there's something you need.





side door speakers


side impact airbags


softtop motor
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