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Old 06-04-2013, 02:54 PM   #1
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Hi joe.
i will be interested in the door panels if in good shape and a good price
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Old 06-04-2013, 03:20 PM   #2
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as a guy who hopes to do such a build (un-build? de-build?) in the near future, how do you deal with:

- immobiliser?
- cels - deleting charcoal canister, etc., will chuck a cel - I presume you ignore it? must make for a cluttered fault read when you run diagnostics.
- door levers - do you get rid of them with the door panels and replace with ...?
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:49 PM   #3
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RK,

Re immobilizer: in my case I had the ECU doctors in Florida remove the immobilizer function from the Box that contains the ECU and therefore dont need an immobilizer or key etc. Eric (from this forum) subsequently got into all sorts of **************** for doing the same thing (At POC the rules were interpreted to outlaw such a move). This however has not been the case with PCA. I exclusively race with PCA and nobody has mentioned it YET. Most people simply remount the immobilizer in a waterproof place and live with it.

Without cats most (but not all) cars simply show a CEL constantly (some do not) and you learn to ignore it UNTIL IT STARTS FLASHING. No big deal when doing diagnostics simply one fault code that needs to be extinguished. In my case it's one of about six "normal" fault codes.

The door levers actually pull on a cable which you can easily fix to the door (after everything else is gone) and then have a pull cable door opener.
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:55 PM   #4
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Thanks lots. So the immobilizer won't lose the plot with the locks and windows, etc., removed? Thanks and sorry for the hijack!
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:44 PM   #5
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Immobilizer relies on a signal from the ignition key. Having accepted the signal it sends a OK signal to the ECU. All the other stuff may set the alarm off but won't cause an immobilization.

The above relationship between key, immobilizer and ECU why they need to either reprogrammed or replaced as a set but also why the ECU can be modified to not need the signal and allow the elimination of the immobilizer unit and the key and switch.
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Old 06-04-2013, 08:56 PM   #6
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no worries TRK. not hijacking at all. great questions. i was wondering myself.
i have durametric so can probably clear some of the codes that stripping trips.

Jittsl, thanks for answering questions. very informative! i will leave the immobilizer alone it sounds like the ECU needs tweaking in order to bypass it.

Meir, i'll pm you on the door panels.
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Old 06-05-2013, 05:19 AM   #7
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Joe, firstly call me Laurence or Laurie.

Thought of one more thing regards windows. On the driver side you would be crazy not to use what they call NASCAR bars (I think). These bars extend into the door cavity (where the window currently resides) and almost reach the outer skin of the door. Such an arrangement requires both the window removal and the gutting of the door but may well save you from serious injury. At a recent club race at COTA we had an incident where one SPB T- boned another. Despite the fact the metal work was demolished the NASCAR cage arrangement managed to keep the offending car completely clear of the driver who suffered not so much as a bruise. Having seen the result I wouldn't do it any other way.

I also tow with a open trailer and with my temporary windows in place I do get some water in the car but there is very little left to soak it. Other than sometimes racing with a damp seat I don't have an issue.
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