new boxster owner. Q on BSR build.

[Jittsl]

Windows are next to useless the minute you go to the lightweight roof. There will be a 1" gap all round. I simply made up a couple of hooks of strap aluminum that are glued to the glass and allow me drop the windows in place for shipping and parking but whip them out come race time.

[Jittsl]

Also suspect you are about to find out that there is no market for the used roll bar. It looks like it should have a value but I literally couldn't give mine away and ended up throwing it in the garbage.

Definitely a lot easier to de-wire before the cage goes in. Simply find all the wires that now go nowhere and start unwrapping and trimming until you find your way back to the source. It's a lot easier than it sounds. In the end you'll find you only need about 6 - 10 (depending on your choices) of the fuses and only 1 relay up front (fuel pump) and 2 at rear (ECU and something else that escapes me right now). Even if you leave the immobilizer in place you'll discover that there is only about 8 of the fifty something wires currently running to it that you actually need. In my case I chose to leave the complete engine harness in place all the way to the ECU but forward of the ECU everything that went nowhere (including to a fuse that then went nowhere) was taken out. I ended up with a full domestic garbage bin filled with almost 40lbs of wire/blocks/fuse box etc. I built my car on the basis that all it needed was a motor, wipers and brake lights from the original wiring. Everything else is gone.

[Meir]

Hi joe.
i will be interested in the door panels if in good shape and a good price

[The Radium King]

as a guy who hopes to do such a build (un-build? de-build?) in the near future, how do you deal with:

- immobiliser?
- cels - deleting charcoal canister, etc., will chuck a cel - I presume you ignore it? must make for a cluttered fault read when you run diagnostics.
- door levers - do you get rid of them with the door panels and replace with ...?

[Jittsl]

RK,

Re immobilizer: in my case I had the ECU doctors in Florida remove the immobilizer function from the Box that contains the ECU and therefore dont need an immobilizer or key etc. Eric (from this forum) subsequently got into all sorts of **************** for doing the same thing (At POC the rules were interpreted to outlaw such a move). This however has not been the case with PCA. I exclusively race with PCA and nobody has mentioned it YET. Most people simply remount the immobilizer in a waterproof place and live with it.

Without cats most (but not all) cars simply show a CEL constantly (some do not) and you learn to ignore it UNTIL IT STARTS FLASHING. No big deal when doing diagnostics simply one fault code that needs to be extinguished. In my case it's one of about six "normal" fault codes.

The door levers actually pull on a cable which you can easily fix to the door (after everything else is gone) and then have a pull cable door opener.

[The Radium King]

Thanks lots. So the immobilizer won't lose the plot with the locks and windows, etc., removed? Thanks and sorry for the hijack!

[Jittsl]

Immobilizer relies on a signal from the ignition key. Having accepted the signal it sends a OK signal to the ECU. All the other stuff may set the alarm off but won't cause an immobilization.

The above relationship between key, immobilizer and ECU why they need to either reprogrammed or replaced as a set but also why the ECU can be modified to not need the signal and allow the elimination of the immobilizer unit and the key and switch.