03-07-2012, 08:52 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: O.C. CA
Posts: 3,709
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Is that the correct seal or is that just sealant? In every engine I have disassembled that seal looks like new. Blue 2000S sounds like you have a hairline cracked head that opens up at high temp. Get a oil sample & check for high sodium.
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03-08-2012, 01:19 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
Posts: 1,334
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It's the correct seal! This one showed no water in the oil, but the crank carrier area was milky white (oil on the walls)
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03-08-2012, 09:38 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Lighthouse Point, FL
Posts: 45
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So what was the mechanism of failure?
It must have been installed correctly at some point, otherwise the engine would not have lasted 62K
What could have caused this seal to deform?
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03-08-2012, 10:46 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
Posts: 1,334
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The seal has a metal band inside it for strength. I believe the seal was damaged prior to install and water caused the metal to corrode and eventually weaken.
I'll pull the seal apart today and post a pic.
B
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03-08-2012, 12:19 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Southern New jersey
Posts: 1,054
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I just had a similar failure on my Chevy truck. The seal was supported by a hard plastic "cage", which cracked, letting the seal bulge into the coolant passage.
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03-09-2012, 12:24 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
Posts: 1,334
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See the rust? This is the side that was in the block
Just found out.. this forum software doesn't like iPhones 
B
Last edited by Brad Roberts; 03-09-2012 at 12:31 PM.
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03-09-2012, 10:54 AM
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#7
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Porscheectomy
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Seattle Area
Posts: 3,011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BYprodriver
Blue 2000S sounds like you have a hairline cracked head that opens up at high temp. Get a oil sample & check for high sodium.
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I'm 80% sure you're right. At least it won't require a full rebuild if that's what it is.
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03-09-2012, 11:54 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
Posts: 1,334
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Another shop sent me these pics yesterday asking me if we could fix this 3.4 head.. LOL (yes)
B
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03-09-2012, 12:07 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
Posts: 1,334
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Blue,
let me know what you need. I have a few orphan heads with no cracks.
B
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03-09-2012, 12:13 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: O.C. CA
Posts: 3,709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Roberts
Blue,
let me know what you need. I have a few orphan heads with no cracks.
B
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A guy on Rennlist is looking for a 4-6 cyl. 3.4 head to replace a cracked 1 also.
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03-09-2012, 12:16 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
Posts: 1,334
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The one good 3.4 head I have has damage on the exhaust cam journal (first mounting point) We are working on a honing bar so we can weld up the 4-5 heads we have with damage in this area.
B
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03-09-2012, 12:17 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
Posts: 1,334
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He should sell his one good 3.4 head and install 3.2 heads. Same casting, same valves, small combustion chamber. I believe it is 1 point higher on compression (and all these engines read lower than Porsche published) from what I have found..
B
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