Patrick Motorsport /Accusump kit

[Brad Roberts]

A LOT of times I wish we had a small camera in the oil pan.. seriously.. I cannot explain a lot of what I see in data, but I have seen it in Boxsters/Cayman's/6's and 7's. The oil appears to be moving away from the pickup and then the pressure drop 1-2 seconds after the car makes the transition from flat to banking.


The issue is: you are already at high RPM (little to no oil in the pan area) and now add in the banking... The engines (just like any engine with a regular oil pan) it puts all the oil into the heads. Getting the oil back into the pan (and/or limiting it to the heads) is a BIG concern.

The X51 pan helps a lot by trapping the oil near the sump while the car is in the banking (or high speed transition)

[Jittsl]

Originally Posted by Brad Roberts

The issue is: you are already at high RPM (little to no oil in the pan area) and now add in the banking... The engines (just like any engine with a regular oil pan) it puts all the oil into the heads. Getting the oil back into the pan (and/or limiting it to the heads) is a BIG )

I wonder if the difference has nothing to do with banked or not banked but rather the amount of time spent in a corner. A banked turn is really just an extremely long sweeper. And maybe what you are seeing is that the longer the car stays with forces pushing the oil away from centre the less oil you end up with in the sump. Just a thought. When I grenaded my 996 it was on the exit from the esses onto the back straight at WGI - a long, high G corner.

[kcpaz]

If anyone does decide to put the "kit" from Patrick's, make sure you don't install it like this picture from their web site...

Patrick Motorsports - 986 BSR # 17

I don't know what their instructions say, but if you plumb the check valve the way they did in that picture, you might as well just delete the check valve all together. They way they have it installed, it's never going to have a chance to act as a check valve because of how the oil flows. It's supposed to be on the other side (inlet) of the filter housing to function properly, but considering that most oil filters have an internal "one way baffle" the check valve is technically redundant IMO.

I've actually seen problems with these Canton check valves before. They are almost a "one time install" valve because they are made of brass pipe threads which actually expand slightly every time you tighten them. Do that one too many times and you can actually have issues with the internal valve mechanism not being able to open all the way causing a restriction. I've seen low oil pressure problems caused by this exact scenario. In most Accusump plumbing systems, I try to avoid using these check valves and let the internal oil filter check valve do it's job.

I'm actually a big fan of Accusump systems and especially the E.S.P. electric valve systems, but in order for them to be effective, the owner/driver of the car has to understand how the WHOLE system works.

[kcpaz]

Originally Posted by Jittsl

I wonder if the difference has nothing to do with banked or not banked but rather the amount of time spent in a corner. A banked turn is really just an extremely long sweeper. And maybe what you are seeing is that the longer the car stays with forces pushing the oil away from centre the less oil you end up with in the sump. Just a thought. When I grenaded my 996 it was on the exit from the esses onto the back straight at WGI - a long, high G corner.

The fact with banked corners is that the physics involved allow the car to achieve higher lateral g-force numbers than a non-banked turn. Add to that the fact that banked turns are almost always long sustained turns and it makes the problem worse. Having said that, I've had customers report that they have seen oil pressure dummy lights flicker on some of our long, non-banked turns. I think the X51 baffle does a good job at keeping the pick-up surrounded by oil. Is the X51 by itself enough??? hard to say for sure, but I see no down side to the use of an Accusump, and compared to the cost of an engine, they are cheap insurance.

[jsceash]

Originally Posted by kcpaz

The fact with banked corners is that the physics involved allow the car to achieve higher lateral g-force numbers than a non-banked turn. Add to that the fact that banked turns are almost always long sustained turns and it makes the problem worse. Having said that, I've had customers report that they have seen oil pressure dummy lights flicker on some of our long, non-banked turns. I think the X51 baffle does a good job at keeping the pick-up surrounded by oil. Is the X51 by itself enough??? hard to say for sure, but I see no down side to the use of an Accusump, and compared to the cost of an engine, they are cheap insurance.

Here is the actual physics of the force. For a given radius turn the force you feel at 70MPH is doubled at 100 MPH. It four time as much at 144 MPH and it 6 times as much at 173MPH. Force that exerts down is the centripital force * the SIN of the angle. Where the angle is the angle the turn is banked. the rest of the force is tranmited outward along the line of the radius.

[jsceash]

Project completed today. This was not the easiest project, But it is functional.


Oil filter removed and a LN billet Filter adaptor installed then an external filter adaptor. The stainless
Braided hose is the hardest part of the kit. Tape with duct tape and grind in half with a air die grinder.


Almost every one I saw was on the floor which waste the entire trunk. I mounted off the firewall , and
used 2 aluminum angles.. The Preload gauges was giving me a fit with the dipstick tube so I used
ninetys to bring it out on front.



Put in a copper line to a guage in the upper CD tray, This is a temp fix and I'm am looking at what
else could be done there


I think I have about 8 hours into the project but I believe most of that time was getting the best
path for the hoses, and making sure I did not drill through the trunk floor into something.

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by jsceash

The Preload gauges was giving me a fit with the dipstick tube so I used
ninetys to bring it out on front.

This is a long shot but do you recall the thread/pitch/size or whatever of the elbows you used to turn the air gauge?

Thanks!

Steve