Oil Starvation

[steved0x]

I had my first track weekend after installing my oil temp and oil pressure gauges (I don't have a DIY but I will make a thread with part numbers and a few pictures shortly). I wasn't able to get a camera to record the gauges but I did have an instructor ride along for 2 sessions and watch the gauges.

On a side note I had my best weekend ever - in the first session I beat my previous best lap of 1:31.6xx by a few tenths of second, and in my 2nd session I had a string of laps in the mid 1:30.xxx with 1 lap in the high 1:29 and one 1:29.6something that was a full 2 seconds off my previous best So the car was working hard

Car:
2000 Boxster S, 119,000 miles, EBS Baffle, UD Pulley, 2nd Cat Delete pipes, Low Temp thermostat, DT40 oil, Hankook R-S3 tires, stock USA M030 suspension.

Outside temp was between 60 & 70 F.

Water temp never got past the 0 in the 180 and in fact barely ever got past the middle of the 8. Oil temp got up to 220-225 during my best runs when I was pushing it the hardest but mostly stayed around 200. Oil pressure at idle was around 20 PSI when the oil was hot, the rest of the time it was up past 40-50'ish. I only checked on the straights.

I did have an instructor ride with me and look at the oil pressure as I was going through turn 1 & 2 which is a really long right hand sweeper with a declining radius at the end. He saw the oil pressure dip down toward 20 PSI in the turn but it came right back up. That was concerning to me - I have never seen an explanation for the drop that didn't include the oil pickup sucking a little air which can't be good....

I have a 3 QT Accusump that I haven't installed yet, so I think I am going to install it before my next track weekend which is Road Atlanta in November.

Steve

[Jake Raby]

Originally Posted by steved0x

I had my first track weekend after installing my oil temp and oil pressure gauges (I don't have a DIY but I will make a thread with part numbers and a few pictures shortly). I wasn't able to get a camera to record the gauges but I did have an instructor ride along for 2 sessions and watch the gauges.

On a side note I had my best weekend ever - in the first session I beat my previous best lap of 1:31.6xx by a few tenths of second, and in my 2nd session I had a string of laps in the mid 1:30.xxx with 1 lap in the high 1:29 and one 1:29.6something that was a full 2 seconds off my previous best So the car was working hard

Car:
2000 Boxster S, 119,000 miles, EBS Baffle, UD Pulley, 2nd Cat Delete pipes, Low Temp thermostat, DT40 oil, Hankook R-S3 tires, stock USA M030 suspension.

Outside temp was between 60 & 70 F.

Water temp never got past the 0 in the 180 and in fact barely ever got past the middle of the 8. Oil temp got up to 220-225 during my best runs when I was pushing it the hardest but mostly stayed around 200. Oil pressure at idle was around 20 PSI when the oil was hot, the rest of the time it was up past 40-50'ish. I only checked on the straights.

I did have an instructor ride with me and look at the oil pressure as I was going through turn 1 & 2 which is a really long right hand sweeper with a declining radius at the end. He saw the oil pressure dip down toward 20 PSI in the turn but it came right back up. That was concerning to me - I have never seen an explanation for the drop that didn't include the oil pickup sucking a little air which can't be good....

I have a 3 QT Accusump that I haven't installed yet, so I think I am going to install it before my next track weekend which is Road Atlanta in November.

Steve

DT40 was never developed for track service.

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by Jake Raby

DT40 was never developed for track service.

Understood, and I have been thinking of changing to XP-9 but I am still driving to/from the track (and almost no driving in between).

What is the drain interval for XP-9? Looking through my notes I guess I didn't get around to asking that. Is it XYZ amount of track miles + some street mile to and from the track? Or is it straight miles/times? Or should I do a UOA after each event and monitor the additive package?

Thank you!

Steve

Edit: I just found the number on a thread on Rennlist - 750 miles drain interval for XP9.

[RickyG512]

Originally Posted by insite

very easy to get to. it's on the bottom of the oil pump facing downward. it really does take only a minute to change. you're right about the accusump; the first time i fired the car up w/ the accusump, i though the gage broke!

schematic photo of oil pump (change items 5, 25 & 26):

Hi there, I've got the 3 new parts, will the engine drain oil once I remove the bolt? Does the engine need to be empty of oil before I do this? Thanks

[911monty]

Originally Posted by RickyG512

Hi there, I've got the 3 new parts, will the engine drain oil once I remove the bolt? Does the engine need to be empty of oil before I do this? Thanks

No and No. The oil is in the sump and has to be picked up by the pump. Just oil the piston before you install.

[RickyG512]

Hi there, I've got the 3 new parts, will I need to drain oil before I remove the bolt? Does the engine need to be empty of oil before I do this? Thanks

[Robert986]

Just realised one thing.. And feel a bit unsure.

I have installed the X51 baffle on my 986s to enable running on R-tires. I just recalled that I saw in some thread that you need to do some grinding on the X51 baffle to make it fit the 986. I had no problem to fit the original X51 without any grinding.. So, have I made a mistake? Should I worry? (I think not)

[roocox@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by insite

i'm accusumped. it can be done for less than $500.

http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-parts-sale-wanted/66249-accusump-kit-2-qt-valve-brackets-sandwich-plate.html

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by Robert986

Just realised one thing.. And feel a bit unsure.

I have installed the X51 baffle on my 986s to enable running on R-tires. I just recalled that I saw in some thread that you need to do some grinding on the X51 baffle to make it fit the 986. I had no problem to fit the original X51 without any grinding.. So, have I made a mistake? Should I worry? (I think not)

If it fit you are all good. If you needed the grinding, you wouldn't have been able to get the oil sump.plate back.on without a lot of force.

[Rwc94303]

I've read this thread several times over the weeks and haven't seen the following idea suggested so I'll mention it for your consideration and comment.

Two scavenge pumps bring oil back to the sump from right and left cylinder heads. This oil is mixed with air to some degree and passes through a swirl pot or air/oil separator before dumping into the sump. The air/oil separator dumps are outside the baffle surrounding the engine's pressure pump inlet. To re-plumb these dumps inside the baffle would direct that quantity of oil to the pressure pump inlet. Depending on the effectiveness of the air/oil separators this may allow entry of somewhat aerated oil to the baffle interior, and then to the pressure pump and engine. By directing the flow of this oil against the interior side of the baffle (splashing action breaking up bubbles), further de-aeration could be effected allowing even better quality oil flowing to the pressure pump.

To a guy who's been road racing dry-sumped cars for 30+ years, this seems a no-brainer. Who's actually tried this and knows it's a bad idea with sad documented results? For all the writers on this thread surely someone will find this worthy of an experiment.

Please, your thoughts or better, your experience?