Swapping engines

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

Al, the problem is, I'm moving from Corbett, Oregon (on the Columbia River Gorge, east of Portland) to Eugene, about 140 miles south. so the mileage on the rental truck would probably add up to quite a sum. Also, I would face logistical problems picking up the truck and returning it, since U-Haul is 15 miles away, in Gresham, and it seems all my friends in the area are out of town this week. Otherwise, one of them could give me a lift..

I'm leaning toward renting U-Haul's auto transport, even though the combined weight of car and trailer approaches 5000 lbs. As I said, I once towed a 5000 lb. travel trailer for a friend with my 4WD Isuzu Rodeo without a problem, but it was only 30 miles; 140 miles could be a strain. Or not. The Isuzu is pretty beefy, and it would be a straight shot down I-5 on mostly flat pavement. As an alternative, I think I'll call some transport companies and find out how much they would charge to flatbed the car down there.

I had naively assumed the tow dolly was the perfect solution for towing the car. But nooo! That would be too simple and easy.

I didn't realize you were driving that far. The mileage will rack the rental price up quite a bit. Even more with a towing company. If you're not dealing with many hills, you should be fine with the Rodeo.

Another thought is to get an estimate from Uship. Can the car drive onto a trailer? Often times, if they can combine trips you can get a bit of a break.

[cooler]

hello.
I'm hoping that someone could measure the distance from the flywheel friction surface to the engine/bellhousing flange.
Thanks

[Gilles]

I would explore the possibility of the trailer dolly, but getting the Boxter rear axle on the dolly..
This way you will not damage the transmission and also (very important) you will have the heavier axle on the dolly.

PS: Of course, you will have to tell U-haul that you will be towing a VW Golf..

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by Gilles

I would explore the possibility of the trailer dolly, but getting the Boxter rear axle on the dolly..
This way you will not damage the transmission and also (very important) you will have the heavier axle on the dolly.

PS: Of course, you will have to tell U-haul that you will be towing a VW Golf..

She could, but there's still the issue with ground clearance. I don't know how close the nose will be to the ground with the back wheels lifted up anywhere from 4 to 8 inches. Then the center of gravity will shift forward lowering the front even more. And on top of that there's the downward g-force when you come to a dip in the road which will further lower it. (Ever notice how the road is darker there? That's from all the passing cars that leak oil, where the droplets were clinging on for dear life to the bottom of the car until the downward g-force overwhelmed them. All at the exact same spot on the road.)

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by piper6909

I didn't realize you were driving that far. The mileage will rack the rental price up quite a bit. Even more with a towing company. If you're not dealing with many hills, you should be fine with the Rodeo.

Another thought is to get an estimate from Uship. Can the car drive onto a trailer? Often times, if they can combine trips you can get a bit of a break.

UPDATE: I hired a local gyppo truckdriver to haul the car down on his tilting flatbed rig. Problem solved!

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

UPDATE: I hired a local gyppo truckdriver to haul the car down on his tilting flatbed rig. Problem solved!

Good call!

[LoneWolfGal]

The guy who hauled the car down said it was one of the easiest moves he's ever done. He particularly appreciated the tow hook on the front bumper. After I retrieve my furniture and other belongings from a local storage unit I will be completely and officially moved in. Then I'll have to unpack and set up my shop. I'm anxious to replace bank 2's cam chain tensioner pads (and a few other minor things) and then stick the engine in the car. If I hadn't had to move right smack in the middle of the project I would be close to finished. But again... adapt, improvise, overcome — oorah!

[tcoradeschi]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

I was skeptical, but it turns out you and Al were correct about possible damage to the transmission using a tow dolly::

Transmission damage to your vehicle-in-tow

When towing a rear axle driven front engine vehicle on a tow dolly, the drive shaft must be disconnected to prevent transmission damage. Simply placing the transmission in neutral is not sufficient and will not prevent damage due to a lack of internal lubrication. You must disconnect the drive shaft at the rear axle and tie or wire it up. The universal joint bearing caps must be taped on to prevent loss of the bearings. If you choose to remove the drive shaft entirely, it may be necessary to cap the transmission tail shaft to prevent fluid loss and possible future damage. Consult your vehicle owner’s manual.

https://www.uhaul.com/Tips/Towing/Tow-Dolly-User-Instructions-120/

Drat! And here I'd assumed the problem was solved. Thanks to both of you. You kept me from making a dumb mistake.

I’d submit that to be generic U-Haul language, written to address automatic transmissions, where there will be a pump driven via the torque converter. Manuals have no pumps and rely on splash lubrication and you have a manual. Clearly you need to go with what you are comfortable with, so this is simply a point to consider…

[Newsguy]

Just to clarify, the Boxster owner’s manual clearly states damage may occur if any method apart from flat bed towing is used.

[tcoradeschi]

Originally Posted by Newsguy

Just to clarify, the Boxster owner’s manual clearly states damage may occur if any method apart from flat bed towing is used.

Correct. Actually, what it says is that all 4 wheels should be off the ground. It does not mention the transmission.

That all said, the OP has moved her vehicle, so all good.

[LoneWolfGal]

I've decided after I install the new engine I'm going to buy a flatbed trailer and just haul the car around instead of driving it. It will eliminate wear and tear on the car entirely!

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

I've decided after I install the new engine I'm going to buy a flatbed trailer and just haul the car around instead of driving it. It will eliminate wear and tear on the car entirely!

Why bother installing the engine, then? I'll take that paperweight off you.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by piper6909

Why bother installing the engine, then? I'll take that paperweight off you.

Excellent point. I hadn't considered that. But if I don't see the project through to completion my OCD would probably kick in and start nagging me.

[LoneWolfGal]

An interlude to express my appreciation of the 986's design... Look at its beautiful lines, an auto-design symphony. Gotta hand it to Grant Larson; he nailed it. The design of the first series is aesthetically perfect. That said, my hands-down choice for most beautiful auto design has always been the series 1 E-type roadster. I wasn't alone in my opinion. Enzo Ferrari described the E-type as "the most beautiful car ever designed." I'll probably never own an E-type, but my unassuming little 986 definitely checks some of the same boxes for me.



NOTE: Personally, I prefer the base model to the S. I like the base's black instrumentation, front end treatment, and massive single tailpipe. Although I don't mind the much-maligned "fried egg" headlights, I have to admit that the clear headlights give it a very clean look. But man, are they pricey!

[maxbottomtime]

My car is black, and honestly I like the fried eggs. I think a lot of people have gone out of their way to de-amber, swap to clear, and the fried eggs will come back into vogue.

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by maxbottomtime

My car is black, and honestly I like the fried eggs. I think a lot of people have gone out of their way to de-amber, swap to clear, and the fried eggs will come back into vogue.

Mine came with aftermarket clear lenses installed AND the originals, so when the sentiment is back to the classic original look, I'll be ready.

[KevinH1990]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

NOTE: Personally, I prefer the base model to the S. I like the base's black instrumentation, front end treatment, and massive single tailpipe. Although I don't mind the much-maligned "fried egg" headlights, I have to admit that the clear headlights give it a very clean look. But man, are they pricey!

I have a base model. While I expect the vast majority of base models had black gauges, mine was equipped with aluminum gauge faces. (Most people think they are white, but if I look closely at the right angle, I can detect a silver tone.) I have the window sticker for my car, and the aluminum gauge faces are listed as a preferred option as part of the package with a silver gear shift lever.

The fried egg headlights didn't bother me at first, but the constant bombardment of fried-egg hate on this and other forums prompted me to consider other options. I eventually found some damaged litronic headlights at a good price and with the advice from folks on this forum rehabbed them. https://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/54697-advice-used-litronics.html

When you finish your engine rebuild, you can consider starting a "treasure hunt" for some used litronics. I had to replace the wiring harness in one of mine but compared to an engine swap that is a trivial task.