I could almost afford one if I hadn't used up my unexpected windfall on the Solution and other pricey parts. A few years back I had a chance to get a Bobcat for $1500, but I was too late by ten minutes! Someone else aced me. The guy that owned it had died and his wife was selling off his tools. I still feel like howling at the moon when I think about it.

The engine pallet and a few tools loaded into a 6x12 covered cargo trailer. Just starting to secure everything with ratchet straps, trying different anchor points. I have eight straps available, plus moving blankets. (And the top toolbox will ride on the floor.) Didn't need to use a come-along to get the engine in the trailer. I managed to get it up the ramp with two helpers as primary motive power. "Put your backs to it, lads," I exhorted them, which they seemed to appreciate. And I pushed, too. I will no doubt need the come-along when I unload it at the destination, solo.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1748756147.jpg

Congrtulations!

I have never doubt the power of a woman with determination :-)

quite the rollercoaster of emotions all for this tool that i now need to buy for my timing job. just off all of this im thinking Pipers nudge towards building the special tool 9632 from the youtube video might be ideal and effective with time and price

The engine's at the new place. This was taken just after it was unloaded. I had been sweating unloading it, but I needn't have worried, and I didn't have to use the come-along after all. I merely guided the engine while it sailed down the 4x8 ramp in stately fashion. It began gathering momentum toward the bottom but then it encountered the stack of moving blankets I'd placed there. I attribute the trouble-free unloading to the heavy-duty 4" wheels (with brakes) I installed on the pallet. Moving the 500 lb engine around on a level surface is easy as pie.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1749177883.jpg

Welcome to your new home! :cheers:

Thanks, Gilles. I'm not finished moving yet, but one more trailer load should do it, except for the Porsche. I'm going to rent an auto hauler for it from U-Haul next week and deliver that 986 to its new digs in style. Then I'm going to kick back for a while to recharge. Moving is rather taxing. As in totally exhausting.

Do you have AAA? You can get a free tow on a flatbed.

Al, I had AAA a couple years back but didn't renew it, because State Farm has roadside service. I'm leaning toward using a "tow dolly," which lifts the front and leaves the rear wheels on the road to freewheel. Everyone I've talked to says tow dollies are the way to go for light cars.

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https://www.uhaul.com/Trailers/Tow-Dolly-Rental/TD/

I was checking into this some time ago. I discovered tow dolly’s are not recommended for the Boxster. I believe the transmission is the problem.

I can't accept that, Newsguy. If a tow dolly is a problem, then merely coasting in neutral would be a problem.

I'm in agreement with Newsguy. I would not recommend a dolly. Assuming it doesn't harm the transmission, the low clearance is also a big concern. Your local U-Haul should have car trailers where you can load the whole car.

https://www.uhaul.com/Trailers/Auto-Transport-Rental/AT/

Coasting is not the same as towing for miles.
I would really like that solution to work, but I'm not willing to risk it.

I'll look into it further. I didn't consider rear ground clearance, The full-size auto transport is considerably heavier than the tow dolly, which is a concern. They're made to haul heavy vehicles. I don't want to exceed my Isuzu's 4000 lb. tow capacity, although I once towed a 5000-lb travel trailer with it, so it does have some reserve.

You can tell the U-Haul rep what your tow vehicle is and the vehicle you're towing and they'll tell you if you're within limits.

This is helpful:
https://www.uhaul.com/Tips/Towing/Auto-Transporter-User-Instructions-121/

Thanks, Al. Lots of useful information in there. So far I've towed two fully loaded covered cargo trailers over there, a 6x12 and a 5x9. Only the Porsche remains to be moved.

The Boxster weighs 2778 and the trailer weighs 2210, according to the U-haul website, for a total weight of 4988. If you've already pulled a 5000 pound trailer, this shouldn't be a problem. I would imagine you've pulled the trailer much further than you'll be pulling the Box, right?

Another option is to rent one of their pickup trucks along with the trailer. You can rent them by the hour for fairly cheap. This will give you peace of mind and eliminate any risk to your Trooper.

I was skeptical, but it turns out you and Al were correct about possible damage to the transmission using a tow dolly::

Transmission damage to your vehicle-in-tow

When towing a rear axle driven front engine vehicle on a tow dolly, the drive shaft must be disconnected to prevent transmission damage. Simply placing the transmission in neutral is not sufficient and will not prevent damage due to a lack of internal lubrication. You must disconnect the drive shaft at the rear axle and tie or wire it up. The universal joint bearing caps must be taped on to prevent loss of the bearings. If you choose to remove the drive shaft entirely, it may be necessary to cap the transmission tail shaft to prevent fluid loss and possible future damage. Consult your vehicle owner’s manual.

https://www.uhaul.com/Tips/Towing/Tow-Dolly-User-Instructions-120/

Drat! And here I'd assumed the problem was solved. Thanks to both of you. You kept me from making a dumb mistake.

I just checked the Uhaul site and you can rent a pickup or a 10' box truck for $19.95/hour (plus $1.39/mile). Too bad you don't have anything left in the other house, otherwise the 10' truck would have been perfect. If you have nothing else to haul, the pickup may be your best bet, given it'll be easier to handle and probably gets better mileage. The car carrier alone costs 54.95, for a total of $74.90 before tagging on miles.

Maybe call a towing company and see what they would charge for a flatbed. My guess it would be not much more. You'll save yourself a lot of hassle, and they're liable if anything happens. National average is from $75 to $125

As a die-hard DIYer, I evaluate the options and sometimes conclude that even a die-hard DIYer has to call in reinforcements occasionally.

Al, the problem is, I'm moving from Corbett, Oregon (on the Columbia River Gorge, east of Portland) to Eugene, about 140 miles south. so the mileage on the rental truck would probably add up to quite a sum. Also, I would face logistical problems picking up the truck and returning it, since U-Haul is 15 miles away, in Gresham, and it seems all my friends in the area are out of town this week. Otherwise, one of them could give me a lift..

I'm leaning toward renting U-Haul's auto transport, even though the combined weight of car and trailer approaches 5000 lbs. As I said, I once towed a 5000 lb. travel trailer for a friend with my 4WD Isuzu Rodeo without a problem, but it was only 30 miles; 140 miles could be a strain. Or not. The Isuzu is pretty beefy, and it would be a straight shot down I-5 on mostly flat pavement. As an alternative, I think I'll call some transport companies and find out how much they would charge to flatbed the car down there.

I had naively assumed the tow dolly was the perfect solution for towing the car. But nooo! That would be too simple and easy.

I didn't realize you were driving that far. The mileage will rack the rental price up quite a bit. Even more with a towing company. If you're not dealing with many hills, you should be fine with the Rodeo.

Another thought is to get an estimate from Uship. Can the car drive onto a trailer? Often times, if they can combine trips you can get a bit of a break.

Measurement Please
 

hello.
I'm hoping that someone could measure the distance from the flywheel friction surface to the engine/bellhousing flange.
Thanks

I would explore the possibility of the trailer dolly, but getting the Boxter rear axle on the dolly..
This way you will not damage the transmission and also (very important) you will have the heavier axle on the dolly.

PS: Of course, you will have to tell U-haul that you will be towing a VW Golf.. :rolleyes:

She could, but there's still the issue with ground clearance. I don't know how close the nose will be to the ground with the back wheels lifted up anywhere from 4 to 8 inches. Then the center of gravity will shift forward lowering the front even more. And on top of that there's the downward g-force when you come to a dip in the road which will further lower it. (Ever notice how the road is darker there? That's from all the passing cars that leak oil, where the droplets were clinging on for dear life to the bottom of the car until the downward g-force overwhelmed them. All at the exact same spot on the road.)

UPDATE: I hired a local gyppo truckdriver to haul the car down on his tilting flatbed rig. Problem solved!

Good call!

The guy who hauled the car down said it was one of the easiest moves he's ever done. He particularly appreciated the tow hook on the front bumper. After I retrieve my furniture and other belongings from a local storage unit I will be completely and officially moved in. Then I'll have to unpack and set up my shop. I'm anxious to replace bank 2's cam chain tensioner pads (and a few other minor things) and then stick the engine in the car. If I hadn't had to move right smack in the middle of the project I would be close to finished. But again... adapt, improvise, overcome — oorah!

I’d submit that to be generic U-Haul language, written to address automatic transmissions, where there will be a pump driven via the torque converter. Manuals have no pumps and rely on splash lubrication and you have a manual. Clearly you need to go with what you are comfortable with, so this is simply a point to consider…

Just to clarify, the Boxster owner’s manual clearly states damage may occur if any method apart from flat bed towing is used.

Correct. Actually, what it says is that all 4 wheels should be off the ground. It does not mention the transmission.

That all said, the OP has moved her vehicle, so all good.

I've decided after I install the new engine I'm going to buy a flatbed trailer and just haul the car around instead of driving it. It will eliminate wear and tear on the car entirely!

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Why bother installing the engine, then? I'll take that paperweight off you. :)

Excellent point. I hadn't considered that. But if I don't see the project through to completion my OCD would probably kick in and start nagging me.

An interlude to express my appreciation of the 986's design... Look at its beautiful lines, an auto-design symphony. Gotta hand it to Grant Larson; he nailed it. The design of the first series is aesthetically perfect. That said, my hands-down choice for most beautiful auto design has always been the series 1 E-type roadster. I wasn't alone in my opinion. Enzo Ferrari described the E-type as "the most beautiful car ever designed." I'll probably never own an E-type, but my unassuming little 986 definitely checks some of the same boxes for me.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1750355560.jpg

NOTE: Personally, I prefer the base model to the S. I like the base's black instrumentation, front end treatment, and massive single tailpipe. Although I don't mind the much-maligned "fried egg" headlights, I have to admit that the clear headlights give it a very clean look. But man, are they pricey!

My car is black, and honestly I like the fried eggs. I think a lot of people have gone out of their way to de-amber, swap to clear, and the fried eggs will come back into vogue.

Mine came with aftermarket clear lenses installed AND the originals, so when the sentiment is back to the classic original look, I'll be ready.

I have a base model. While I expect the vast majority of base models had black gauges, mine was equipped with aluminum gauge faces. (Most people think they are white, but if I look closely at the right angle, I can detect a silver tone.) I have the window sticker for my car, and the aluminum gauge faces are listed as a preferred option as part of the package with a silver gear shift lever.

The fried egg headlights didn't bother me at first, but the constant bombardment of fried-egg hate on this and other forums prompted me to consider other options. I eventually found some damaged litronic headlights at a good price and with the advice from folks on this forum rehabbed them. https://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/54697-advice-used-litronics.html

When you finish your engine rebuild, you can consider starting a "treasure hunt" for some used litronics. I had to replace the wiring harness in one of mine but compared to an engine swap that is a trivial task.

I followed a 986 yesterday whose owner had installed a large carbon-fiber spoiler. He obviously liked how it looked, so more power to him. Me? I hated it. The outsized spoiler certainly spoiled the balance of the 986's lines. And what's with the popularity of carbon fiber? Perhaps, like the spoiler, it's an acquired taste, one I have yet to acquire. Carbon fiber always looks to me like a part that hasn't been painted yet. Diff'rent strokes.

I drastically underestimated the time and effort and swearing required to set up a new house. I haven't even begun unpacking Porsche parts and tools and setting up the shop. After that's done I'll be back online chronicling the engine-swap saga.

Thanks for checking in. I've been wondering if you were okay.