Thanks, Grant. This is an esoteric process and difficult to describe clearly. By "cam tool," I was referring to the tool on the right, which fits into the ends of the cams without locking their rotation but prevents them from falling out. By "cam retainer," I meant the tool on the left, which also keeps the cams from falling out. The lighter-color links are seven links apart and were paired with the divots on the sprockets. So even if the cams rotated a bit during the process of fitting the chain over the pads, it would only matter if the chain jumped a tooth and a lighter link was no longer lined up with its divot. Also, it's my understanding that, once they're loosely held in place by these tools, the cams can be rotated by hand if necessary to line up the slot.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1746469015.jpg

I picked up some of this stuff, on JFP's recommendation: "ARP 100-9909 Ultra Torque Assembly Lubricant - 1.69 oz. Fluid Squeeze Tube." $13.99 at Amazon. I will of course use it on the compression tool, but it seems to me most fasteners used in the engine would benefit from it. What about flywheel and pressure plate* bolts? Cam cover and sump cover? Cam caps?

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*By the way, I've decided to replace the pressure plate along with the clutch disc and throwout bearing. I had intended to replace only the disc and bearing, but I've come around to the idea that I'd be crazy not to put in a new pressure plate while I'm at it.

Definitely not the pressure plate and flywheel bolts. If it's like most other cars, you'll want loctite or some other thread locker for those bolts. Assembly lube would have the opposite effect.

Almost, but not quite. You definitely want a dot of blue Loctite on the threads of both the pressure plate and flywheel bolts, but a coating of this product underneath the heads of the flywheel bolts makes cranking them to their final +90 degrees after torquing one heck of a lot easier.....

True, but it seems she was talking about lubing the bolts the same way she would lube the compression tool, given she said she bought the product you suggested to lube the threads of the tool, as you suggested.

Now, putting a dab of assembly lube on the inside head of the bolt where it contacts the flywheel and the pressure plate,is definitely a good idea for proper torqueing. But you certainly do not want that on the threads.

Makes sense.

Also, you've convinced me that, after sparing no expense on the IMS bearing, I'd be nuts not to cough up a couple hundred more for factory clutch parts. I keep imagining the clutch giving out on some godforsaken stretch of road and wishing I had.

The ARP lube is used on a wide variety of fasteners, like head bolts/studs, crank carrier bolts, etc. to get optimum torque readings and clamping loads. If you go to the ARP website, they have a very interesting "white paper" comparing clamping loads, and actual vs indicated torque readings both with and without the use of fastener lubricants.

I always encourage people to never "cheap out" on projects like this as the labor involved in going back in to undo the corner cutting is worth more than you actually saved in the first place. And to those who would respond, "I'll be doing it myself so there is no labor cost....", yes, there is is what acountants would call "opportunity costs", the value of what you would be doing otherwise if you weren't back under the car again. Do it right, do it once......

When the Porsche engineers specified a certain torque, was that with or without ARP lube? If ARP makes such a big difference, will you get the actual clamping force the engineers intended or, since ARP makes it easier, more clamping force than intended? Just a thought.

Yes, you want a little Lube on the bolts so they don't bind and "creak" when you torque them down, because if they do you won't get the true torque and less clamping force than intended. Would using ARP have the opposite?

I noticed that the label says it's "specifically designed for ARP fastener preload specs."

That has been an internet argument for years. Running my own business, as well as building race cars and engines for various racing venues over several decades, I am super critical about two things when it comes to torque specs: accuracy and reproducability. From everything I have read, and what I have learned myself, sometimes at considerable expense, a lubricated fastener will both attain the correct clamping force, and that clamping force can be accurately be repeated as necessary. Now that thread lubrication can come in many forms: thread locker, anti seize, or simple lubricant; all will provide some level of lubrication during assembly, and not all will provide the same degree of lubrication, but all provide some level, which is the improtant point. In their white paper, ARP discussed at length about finding both erradic and lower clamping pressure than desired when threads were assembled dry and torqued to a given spec, and higher and vastly more consistent clamping pressure when the treads were lubricated and torqued to the same value.

Yes, I have read, and often laughed at, internet stories about people having their wheels fall off because they use anti seize on the lug threads. Anti seize on the lugs both prevent thread galling over time, and incorrectly torqueing the fasteners. I litterally have no idea how many cars we have running around with anti seize on the wheel lugs, but I can tell you that none ever came back because either the wheel fell off or was damaged by excessive torque. Same can be said about engines we either worked on or built for customers. I can tell you that I have seen brand new and very expensive engine cases that demonstrated unequal drag when simply threading in new bolts or studs with my fingers. This one of many reasons why we always "chase" every threaded opening in an engine case before assembly, and use a small dab of ARP thread lubricant when assembling. Consistency matters.

Thanks, Al. I've used Loctite on conventional engines' flywheels and pressure plates, but I've learned not to make assumptions when it comes to Porsche's flat six, so I included them in the list. You and others on the forum are an indispensable source of knowledge about this engine. Thanks to your kind assistance, I will definitely have the best 986 in the poorhouse!

And poorhouse be damned, I say!

This is what I love about forums (forii?) like this where people can share their experiences, albeit some more extensive than others. I can't speak for anti-seize on lug nuts, because I never used it and never will. And I may not have much experience on porsches, but I have some experience on Subarus. And on the only two occasions where I used assembly Lube on head bolt threads I had to redo each of them within a year. One was a personal vehicle and the other one was a friend's vehicle, and both times the head bolts came off extremely easily. Was it a coincidence? I don't think so. They either came loose or I over torqued them beyond their limit. They are torque to yield bolts where you turn them of total of 180° Beyond a specified torque. Whatever happened, I'm never going to use assembly Lube on the threads again. Chase them, of course, if they feel like they're binding, and make sure the threads are clean, but no more assembly Lube for me..

A personal choice...............

There are also several articles that list potential reasons why Subaru head bolts are known to come loose, running from the head gaskets themselves, weak or incorrect bolts that fatigue, to incorrect tightening sequences, and even mention lack of lubrication causing the bolts to bind during installation, leading to lower than expected clamping, not unlike what is described in the ARP white paper.

The problems seems well recognized, if not fully studied.

Though it is more than coincidental that the only 2 I used assembly lube on were the only two I did (of about 20 or 25) that failed. And of all the ones I did, I've never seen loose head bolts when I tore them down. (besides those two)
If the bolts creak or bind, I take them all out and clean them again, along with the holes.

If it works for you, lube them. More power to you. I won't. And I sure as hell won't put anti-seize on my lugs.

Like I said, yours is a personal choice. Interestingly, the factory recommends lubrication for Subaru head bolts..............

I'd be interested in seeing where they recommend using assembly Lube. Oil maybe, but I've never seen them recommend assembly lube.

And Subaru doesn't use Loctite on their head bolts. Oil would defeat the purpose loctite, which was my point from the beginning.

Also from Loctite's website:
"Grease, dirt, or oil in the assembly can slow curing, leading to a weak bond."

I saw it on ALLDATA.

I have never used Loctite on head bolts or studs, and never used or suggested anyone use both lubricant and Loctite on ANY fasteners; but have used thread sealant (alone) when they penetrate the water jacket.

ALLDATA said use assembly Lube on Subaru head bolts? I don't think so. Perhaps you read it wrong. Oil, yes. Assembly Lube? I highly doubt it. If so, then I'd suggest you call them and tell them to update their manuals, because Subaru says to use engine oil.

This whole discussion started when you said I was wrong for telling LoneWolfGal not to use the lube you recommend on flywheel and pressure plate bolts because they need Loctite, and now you're saying you never suggested using both? We'll let the posts speak for themselves.

We both agreed that it's good to use it on the head of the bolt, but the discussion stemmed around the threads and them binding up, which you literally said you put a dab on the threads. Again, go back and read the posts. That is, until now, after I remided you that Loctite said not to use any lubricants.

ALLDATA says "suitable lubricating oil", which is EXACTLY what ARP assembly lube is.

From my post, which you here totally misrepresent, "You definitely want a dot of blue Loctite on the threads of both the pressure plate and flywheel bolts, but a coating of this product underneath the heads of the flywheel bolts makes cranking them to their final +90 degrees after torquing one heck of a lot easier....." Nowhere in this post do I even remotely suggest using mixing or using both on the same surfaces.

"Nam ipsa loquitur" to use a long standing legal maxim...............

Okay, I'm confused now. I understand that Loctite on flywheels and pressure plate bolts is advisable, but what about using ARP lubricant and/or blue Loctite on cam caps and camshaft cover bolts, which I will be dealing with right away, and on sump cover bolts later?

And if you kids don't settle down, I'm going to send your father in.

As I noted previously, a dab of blue Loctite on the treads of both the flywheel and pressure plate bolts is advised, plus an application of the ARP lubricant on just the underside of the flywheel bolt heads. I would also use a dab (don't go nuts here) of the ARP on the cam shaft cap bolts. As for both the cam cover and sump cover, a small dab of the ARP is fine, again don't over apply it; I would not use any thread locker on either of these because the bolts are rather small and the use of a thread locker could lead to bolt breakage if furhter maintence is required down the road. This is exactly how we reassemble customer's engines, and we have not had any issues as the result of these practices.

No problems here, I just take exception to anyone misquoting or misinterpeting any advice we post, or extrapolating failures from well known problems to every and all applications. Just because one engine design is known to have significant and well known issues, the same thing does not necessarily apply everywhere else.

To again use a legal maxim, "non sequitur"..........

To.which I replied, "True, but it seems she was talking about lubing the bolts the same way she would lube the compression tool, given she said she bought the product you suggested to lube the threads of the tool, as you suggested.

Now, putting a dab of assembly lube on the inside head of the bolt where it contacts the flywheel and the pressure plate,is definitely a good idea for proper torqueing. But you certainly do not want that on the threads.

And later you replied "This one of many reasons why we always "chase" every threaded opening in an engine case before assembly, and use a small dab of ARP thread lubricant when assembling. Consistency matters."

I'd imagine at least SOME of those "thread openings" require loctite.
So if you never specifically said you use loctite and lube on the same threads, one can surelt get that impression. Consistency matters, and so does clarity.

And going back to ALLDATA, they need to change their manuals, because Subaru specifically says "Engine oil" on the head bolt heads and threads, so the ONLY "suitable lubricating oil" is engine oil, not assembly lube.

Speaking of misquoting, I never said or implied anything of the sort.

Girls! Girls! You're BOTH pretty!

Seriously, seeing two of the most knowledgeable and respected people on the forum at odds is like watching King Kong versus Godzilla. And I'm out of popcorn!

Thanks for the vote of confidence but Jeff is hands down one of, if not the most knowledgeable person on here, and 100 times more knowledgeable than I, especially when it comes to porsches and have a great deal of respect for him. There are, however, times when dealing with laymn like myself and others a little more clarification would help. Not just "get the right part" or "your updated replacement engine is exactly the same as your original engine" and, in this particular case, saying I was wrong for telling you not to use assembly Lube on the flywheel and pressure plate bolt threads.

In the end, we both agreed that you shouldn't use assembly lube on threads where loctite is required, and that's the important takeaway.

Hahaha.. :D

Another change in plans. Bank 1's cam chain pads are installed, the cams are back in place, and the cam cover has been bolted on. The engine's ready for transport. I had intended to finish the engine — install bank 2's pads and replace some miscellaneous stuff — before I made the move to my new place. However, the house I've been renting is on the market and the sellers are leaning on me to move out ASAP. This project is difficult enough without people breathing down my neck. I could play hardball and tell them to pound sand until July 9, the move-out date in the notice they sent me a month ago. That would be pointless. I'm going to rent an auto-hauler trailer from U-Haul for the 986 and a large covered trailer for the new engine (plus my tools and other possessions). The engine will travel strapped to a 4x4 pallet with 4" wheels (which make it relatively easy to move around on level surfaces). Once I get settled at my new digs I shall resume this project, free of pressure from external forces. In the meantime I'll be checking in here.

Just a note about the oil scavenge pump... I don't understand why so many how-to articles and videos insist that preserving the pump's orientation using a marker is a must, when the pump's orientation is cast into the face — 1-3 for bank 1, 4-6 for bank 2. As long as the cast numbers on the left side (inside) correspond to that bank's cylinder numbers, it's impossible to make a mistake and mount it upside down. Here's a photo from Pelican's technical article, although the article makes no mention of the cast numbers (which are hard to see in the photo):

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1747589649.jpg

Good observation, except on bank 2 the 4-6 stamp would still be on the right, but inside, correct? If that's the case, then both sides are mounted in the same orientation? Yes, the numbers would make a good reference.

But the instructions should be better than "install the same way you took it out" in the event someone was in there before you and reinstalled it upside-down. For example, does the indented rectangle in the inner circle of the outside cover point up on both? If so, that could be another reference. Or, perhaps more importantly given they evidently come apart, the notch on the INSIDE part that meets the cam (shown in smaller picture facing the installer's thumb) would be the best reference.

There's a thread on this:
https://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/65231-scavenging-pump-orientation.html

Post #4 by RodJ shows a diagram with 1-3 stamp on the inside (towards crank) and the arrows pointing down for bank 1, and the next post says 4-6 towards the crankshaft for bank 2. (so they are actually both oriented the same way)

Not sure why the Pelican article didn't mention the stamp numbers or arrows. Seems to me it would be simplest to say "the arrows are supposed to point down on both banks"

Bank 2's pump is installed upside down in relation to bank 1's, so the number placement is reversed, 4-6 on the left, toward the crankshaft. Note that the rectangular indentation next to the center of the casting is on the top for bank 1, the bottom for bank 2:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1747602673.jpg

Du'h! I forgot that they're on opposite ends of the engine! Yes, that makes sense. Arrows point DOWN for bank 2. I guess it's easiest to remember what Gelbster in post #5 from the same link says:
"AS I said, forget the ports.You'll get muddled. Use the markings on the face- per the FSM. If Bank 1 the 1-3 marking faces/closest to the c/s
If Bank 2 4-6 faces the c/s."

Assuming the engine isn't in yet, you'll never have easier access to those ancillary items. Would suck to put the engine in, then 2 mo from now the water pump goes out. It becomes a balancing act of how much you can budget for those extras, the odds of an old part failing, and the ease of being able to get to it if the engine is in the car. These projects rarely come in under budget, so the 'while you're in there's' always hurt the wallet but might be worth it if you have easy access to them with the engine out.

I had just replaced the front engine mount and my clutch had plenty of meat left on it, so I didn't replace those items. Was glad I replaced the injectors as those were much easier with the engine out and this was on my Cayman - would be more difficult on a Box. I didn't need to change the WP as it was new on my rebuilt engine. Bottom line, I didn't need to spend a lot of aux items, but swapping in a used engine into a more confined area of a Box brings more of them into the equation.

Good points, H.B. Besides the parts I've already replaced, including the IMS bearing, rear main seal, and cam chain tensioner pads (almost finished), I plan to replace a number of other items, including motor and transmission mounts and clutch disc, pressure plate, and throwout bearing, as well as various and sundry other things forum members have recommended.

The almost-finished engine's ready to be covered with a 6x6 tarp and strapped onto the pallet with heavy-duty rachet straps for transport. The pallet's beefy 4" wheels each have a brake, which in addition to securing with ropes to the wall hooks will keep it immobile inside the trailer. I hope. It was a challenge wrestling that 500 lb. engine onto the pallet by myself using the cherry picker. My helpers were otherwise engaged. Hope they're around when I pull the pallet up the trailer's ramp with my come-along, but if not I'm perfectly capable of handling it solo. I hope.

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I'm surprised you didn't go out and buy a forklift. :D:D :cheers:

Can you get near the truck gate's required height with the cherry picker?

It will be a covered trailer, not a truck. The cherry picker would be my choice if the engine wasn't already covered by a 6x6 tarp and then strapped securely to the pallet. The chain with which I was lifting the engine is under the tarp. I suppose I could rig up another strap setup around the pallet for the cherry picker, but pulling it up the ramp on its wheels seems easier.