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Old 03-26-2025, 02:54 PM   #1
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Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal View Post
Jake Raby replied to my trouble ticket:

"Piper6909 in the thread is offering some good information. Usually when this scenario occurs the threads of the stud, or the nut have debris or burrs creating this instance. Heavy lubricants can also lead to this when applied to threads. With all the assistance on the thread you have what you need to move forward. The trick that LN advised may seem unorthodox, but it works and does so without any detrimental impacts."

Al, since I don't have a pneumatic zip gun, I'm going to try my powered ratchet and maybe the old-school impact hammer method you suggested. The crowfoot set and bench grinder won't be here until tomorrow anyway. I'm not sorry I bought them. You can't have too many tools. I plan to pick up the set of pass-thru sockets JFP recommended.
Do you have one of these?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-XR-20-volt-Max-1-4-in-Variable-Speed-Brushless-Cordless-Impact-Driver-Tool-only/5014298681?store=2687&cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-vf-_-tol-_-ggl-_-PMAX_Dewalt-_-5014298681-_-local-_-0-_-0&gclsrc=aw.ds&&ds_a_cid=279391351&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwy46_BhDOARIsAIvmcwNxaIIOxZR30hD0S67m fmfKWaUf6bGqPde54zFC_eFBfk5xQ57T2b4aAq7VEALw_wcB

And a set of these?
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-3-Pack-Socket-Adapter-Set/5014901757

If so, you have everything you need. If not, a ratchet and a hammer should work.

Last edited by piper6909; 03-26-2025 at 03:52 PM.
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Old 03-26-2025, 09:15 PM   #2
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I have an impact driver, a Ryobi. I got tied up with something today, but I'm planning to try it out tomorrow. If it doesn't work, I'll try the old-school hammer method. If that doesn't work, my new bench grinder and crowfoot wrenches are supposed to be here tomorrow and the Rube Goldberg method will almost certainly work. That is, after I grind a couple of flat sides on the socket for the crowfoot. I'll bet the bench grinder wouldn't break a sweat.
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Old 03-27-2025, 01:21 PM   #3
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I have an impact driver, a Ryobi. I got tied up with something today, but I'm planning to try it out tomorrow. If it doesn't work, I'll try the old-school hammer method. If that doesn't work, my new bench grinder and crowfoot wrenches are supposed to be here tomorrow and the Rube Goldberg method will almost certainly work. That is, after I grind a couple of flat sides on the socket for the crowfoot. I'll bet the bench grinder wouldn't break a sweat.

The Ryobi should do it.
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Old 03-31-2025, 04:55 AM   #4
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What's more difficult to replace than the AOS with the engine in is the coolant tank. That's a real PITA to do and 100 times easier with the engine out. Just a suggestion, if you haven't already addressed it.

Pelican has that, too. Yeah, it's pricey, but yours is 25 years old, unless it has been changed already. Is it white or yellow? If it's yellow, recommend changing it. If you could only do one, I'd do the tank because in comparison, the AOS is much easier to do with the engine in, plus the AOS won't leave you stranded if it goes bad.
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Old 03-31-2025, 08:25 AM   #5
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What's more difficult to replace than the AOS with the engine in is the coolant tank. That's a real PITA to do and 100 times easier with the engine out. Just a suggestion, if you haven't already addressed it.

Pelican has that, too. Yeah, it's pricey, but yours is 25 years old, unless it has been changed already. Is it white or yellow? If it's yellow, recommend changing it. If you could only do one, I'd do the tank because in comparison, the AOS is much easier to do with the engine in, plus the AOS won't leave you stranded if it goes bad.
I'm gun-shy now. Is this the part of which you speak?

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/99610614708.htm?pn=996-106-147-08-M100&bc=c&SVSVSI=
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Old 03-31-2025, 09:09 AM   #6
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That's the coolant tank, yes.
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Old 04-04-2025, 12:44 PM   #7
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You need to remember a couple of things when working on fuel injector flex lines:

1. These hoses are not common hydraulic hose, they are designed to withstand considerable pressure and not be degraged by ethanol containing fuels, which swell and destroy common fuel hose.
2. Clamps used on injector flex lines are not simple worm drive hose clamps, they are stainless steel fuel injector clamps:

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Last edited by JFP in PA; 04-07-2025 at 03:55 AM.
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Old 04-04-2025, 01:16 PM   #8
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You need to remember a couple of things when working on fuel injector flex lines:

1. These hoses are not common hydraulic hose, they are designed to withstand considerable pressure and not be degraged by ethanol containing fuels, which swell and destroy common fuel hose.
JFP, di you know how much pressure would the return line be handling?
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Old 04-04-2025, 01:39 PM   #9
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JFP, di you know how much pressure would the return line be handling?
It varies according to the amount of fuel being returned, but it could be as high as the full injector pressures, which is around 55 PSIG.
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Old 04-06-2025, 06:36 PM   #10
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I'm not going to worry about the fuel line until after I get the cam chain rails* installed. I'm on the fourth day of a cold, so I haven't been out there much. I feel guilty about that. On the other hand, it has afforded me a chance to study videos about the procedure.

*That seems to be what many of the sellers have dubbed them.
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Old 04-07-2025, 08:12 AM   #11
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Speaking of 350 cu in Chevy engines, last week I sold a TRW 350 rebuild kit I've been lugging around for years.
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Old 04-15-2025, 02:02 PM   #12
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I think I've finally beaten my cold. It robbed me of two weeks I could have been working on the engine. However, I spent the time productively, studying how to replace the cam chain wear pads. Turns out the camshaft alignment/timing toolkit I borrowed from a generous forum member is the wrong kit for my 5-chain M96. The borrowed kit contains these tools:



Here's the kit I need:



Which means I'd better cough up $97.87 for the correct kit if I hope to get the car on the road before winter. I'm also ordering a few more parts for the procedure:

cam chains (2)
camshaft sprocket bolts (8)
spark plug tubes (6)
oil scavenger pump o-rings (2)
camshaft plugs (3)

I'll hold off on replacing the AOS and other parts until I finish installing the pads.
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Old 04-15-2025, 04:57 PM   #13
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I ordered the cheap Chinese camshaft alignment/timing toolkit for $97.87. Sure, I could have shelled out $600 for Baum's (the gold standard) or an equivalently expensive kit from LN, both of which I'm sure are better quality. However, this will be a single-use kit for me (I hope). It might have a few small issues, too-long bolts and the like, but the main parts look solid, and I'm confident I have the wherewithal to get it working for this one job. Besides, I got nothin' against the Chinese. Hey, that's what Xi said!

https://www.amazon.com/MAXWIN-Camshaft-Alignment-1998-2011-1996-2011/dp/B0BYSRZTDQ/
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Old 04-16-2025, 09:03 AM   #14
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Question: What sealant do you folks use for the camshaft and sump covers? I've always been partial to Curil T2 ("Das Original") for those types of applications, and I have a brand-new tube on hand, but I figured I'd run it by you anyhow, on the off chance Porsche considers the use of Curil a capital offense (and I wouldn't put it past them ).

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Old 04-16-2025, 09:36 AM   #15
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Loctite SI 5900 Ready Gasket
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Old 04-16-2025, 11:50 AM   #16
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After studying all the videos, writeups, and advice I could find about timing the cams once the pads are installed I can state with conviction that there's a shipload of misinformation out there, and separating the wheat from the chaff is frustrating. Raby's video is great, but he glosses over some of the details. Once I figure out the procedure my palm will undoubtedly smack my forehead. "So THAT'S what they're trying to say." In the meantime, until my timing kit gets here, more studying.
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Old 04-16-2025, 11:57 AM   #17
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Loctite SI 5900 Ready Gasket
My brother's also sold on that stuff. Jake Raby has a favorite sealant, but he's not saying what it is.
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Old 04-16-2025, 12:51 PM   #18
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My brother's also sold on that stuff. Jake Raby has a favorite sealant, but he's not saying what it is.
Works well, easy to control application with the pressurized container and nozzle, Jake used to recommend this stuff as well.
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Old 04-17-2025, 05:21 AM   #19
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JFP, is this the equivalent of DreiBond, or in my case, Yamabond?
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Old 04-17-2025, 06:06 AM   #20
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JFP, is this the equivalent of DreiBond, or in my case, Yamabond?
It is similar in performance to DreiBond, and a lot easier to find.
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