03-26-2025, 09:15 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Oregon
Posts: 535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piper6909
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I have an impact driver, a Ryobi. I got tied up with something today, but I'm planning to try it out tomorrow. If it doesn't work, I'll try the old-school hammer method. If that doesn't work, my new bench grinder and crowfoot wrenches are supposed to be here tomorrow and the Rube Goldberg method will almost certainly work. That is, after I grind a couple of flat sides on the socket for the crowfoot. I'll bet the bench grinder wouldn't break a sweat.
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Last edited by LoneWolfGal; 03-27-2025 at 07:56 AM.
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03-27-2025, 01:21 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: PA
Posts: 1,723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal
I have an impact driver, a Ryobi. I got tied up with something today, but I'm planning to try it out tomorrow. If it doesn't work, I'll try the old-school hammer method. If that doesn't work, my new bench grinder and crowfoot wrenches are supposed to be here tomorrow and the Rube Goldberg method will almost certainly work. That is, after I grind a couple of flat sides on the socket for the crowfoot. I'll bet the bench grinder wouldn't break a sweat.
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The Ryobi should do it.
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03-31-2025, 04:55 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: PA
Posts: 1,723
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What's more difficult to replace than the AOS with the engine in is the coolant tank. That's a real PITA to do and 100 times easier with the engine out. Just a suggestion, if you haven't already addressed it.
Pelican has that, too. Yeah, it's pricey, but yours is 25 years old, unless it has been changed already. Is it white or yellow? If it's yellow, recommend changing it. If you could only do one, I'd do the tank because in comparison, the AOS is much easier to do with the engine in, plus the AOS won't leave you stranded if it goes bad.
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Last edited by piper6909; 03-31-2025 at 05:01 AM.
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03-31-2025, 08:25 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Oregon
Posts: 535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piper6909
What's more difficult to replace than the AOS with the engine in is the coolant tank. That's a real PITA to do and 100 times easier with the engine out. Just a suggestion, if you haven't already addressed it.
Pelican has that, too. Yeah, it's pricey, but yours is 25 years old, unless it has been changed already. Is it white or yellow? If it's yellow, recommend changing it. If you could only do one, I'd do the tank because in comparison, the AOS is much easier to do with the engine in, plus the AOS won't leave you stranded if it goes bad.
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I'm gun-shy now. Is this the part of which you speak?
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/99610614708.htm?pn=996-106-147-08-M100&bc=c&SVSVSI=
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2000 986 base
Arctic Silver/black
2.7 liter
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03-31-2025, 09:09 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: PA
Posts: 1,723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal
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That's the coolant tank, yes.
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04-04-2025, 12:44 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: It's a kind of magic.....
Posts: 6,614
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You need to remember a couple of things when working on fuel injector flex lines:
1. These hoses are not common hydraulic hose, they are designed to withstand considerable pressure and not be degraged by ethanol containing fuels, which swell and destroy common fuel hose.
2. Clamps used on injector flex lines are not simple worm drive hose clamps, they are stainless steel fuel injector clamps:
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Last edited by JFP in PA; 04-07-2025 at 03:55 AM.
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04-04-2025, 01:16 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA
You need to remember a couple of things when working on fuel injector flex lines:
1. These hoses are not common hydraulic hose, they are designed to withstand considerable pressure and not be degraged by ethanol containing fuels, which swell and destroy common fuel hose.
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JFP, di you know how much pressure would the return line be handling?
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04-04-2025, 01:39 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: It's a kind of magic.....
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilles
JFP, di you know how much pressure would the return line be handling?
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It varies according to the amount of fuel being returned, but it could be as high as the full injector pressures, which is around 55 PSIG.
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“Anything really new is invented only in one’s youth. Later, one becomes more experienced, more famous – and more stupid.” - Albert Einstein
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04-06-2025, 06:36 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Oregon
Posts: 535
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I'm not going to worry about the fuel line until after I get the cam chain rails* installed. I'm on the fourth day of a cold, so I haven't been out there much. I feel guilty about that. On the other hand, it has afforded me a chance to study videos about the procedure.
*That seems to be what many of the sellers have dubbed them.
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2000 986 base
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Last edited by LoneWolfGal; 04-07-2025 at 08:01 AM.
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04-07-2025, 08:12 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Oregon
Posts: 535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA
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Speaking of 350 cu in Chevy engines, last week I sold a TRW 350 rebuild kit I've been lugging around for years.
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2000 986 base
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Last edited by LoneWolfGal; 04-09-2025 at 07:02 PM.
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04-15-2025, 02:02 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Oregon
Posts: 535
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I think I've finally beaten my cold. It robbed me of two weeks I could have been working on the engine. However, I spent the time productively, studying how to replace the cam chain wear pads. Turns out the camshaft alignment/timing toolkit I borrowed from a generous forum member is the wrong kit for my 5-chain M96. The borrowed kit contains these tools:
Here's the kit I need:
Which means I'd better cough up $97.87 for the correct kit if I hope to get the car on the road before winter. I'm also ordering a few more parts for the procedure:
cam chains (2)
camshaft sprocket bolts (8)
spark plug tubes (6)
oil scavenger pump o-rings (2)
camshaft plugs (3)
I'll hold off on replacing the AOS and other parts until I finish installing the pads.
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2000 986 base
Arctic Silver/black
2.7 liter
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Last edited by LoneWolfGal; 04-15-2025 at 06:12 PM.
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04-15-2025, 04:57 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Oregon
Posts: 535
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I ordered the cheap Chinese camshaft alignment/timing toolkit for $97.87. Sure, I could have shelled out $600 for Baum's (the gold standard) or an equivalently expensive kit from LN, both of which I'm sure are better quality. However, this will be a single-use kit for me (I hope). It might have a few small issues, too-long bolts and the like, but the main parts look solid, and I'm confident I have the wherewithal to get it working for this one job. Besides, I got nothin' against the Chinese. Hey, that's what Xi said!
https://www.amazon.com/MAXWIN-Camshaft-Alignment-1998-2011-1996-2011/dp/B0BYSRZTDQ/
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2000 986 base
Arctic Silver/black
2.7 liter
5-speed manual
Last edited by LoneWolfGal; 04-15-2025 at 05:26 PM.
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04-16-2025, 09:03 AM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Oregon
Posts: 535
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Question: What sealant do you folks use for the camshaft and sump covers? I've always been partial to Curil T2 ("Das Original") for those types of applications, and I have a brand-new tube on hand, but I figured I'd run it by you anyhow, on the off chance Porsche considers the use of Curil a capital offense (and I wouldn't put it past them  ).
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2000 986 base
Arctic Silver/black
2.7 liter
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04-16-2025, 09:36 AM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: It's a kind of magic.....
Posts: 6,614
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Loctite SI 5900 Ready Gasket
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“Anything really new is invented only in one’s youth. Later, one becomes more experienced, more famous – and more stupid.” - Albert Einstein
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04-16-2025, 11:50 AM
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Oregon
Posts: 535
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After studying all the videos, writeups, and advice I could find about timing the cams once the pads are installed I can state with conviction that there's a shipload of misinformation out there, and separating the wheat from the chaff is frustrating. Raby's video is great, but he glosses over some of the details. Once I figure out the procedure my palm will undoubtedly smack my forehead. "So THAT'S what they're trying to say." In the meantime, until my timing kit gets here, more studying.
__________________
2000 986 base
Arctic Silver/black
2.7 liter
5-speed manual
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04-16-2025, 11:57 AM
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#17
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Oregon
Posts: 535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA
Loctite SI 5900 Ready Gasket

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My brother's also sold on that stuff. Jake Raby has a favorite sealant, but he's not saying what it is.
__________________
2000 986 base
Arctic Silver/black
2.7 liter
5-speed manual
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04-16-2025, 12:51 PM
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#18
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: It's a kind of magic.....
Posts: 6,614
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal
My brother's also sold on that stuff. Jake Raby has a favorite sealant, but he's not saying what it is.
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Works well, easy to control application with the pressurized container and nozzle, Jake used to recommend this stuff as well.
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“Anything really new is invented only in one’s youth. Later, one becomes more experienced, more famous – and more stupid.” - Albert Einstein
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04-17-2025, 05:21 AM
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#19
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Illinois
Posts: 283
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JFP, is this the equivalent of DreiBond, or in my case, Yamabond?
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A cynic is a man who, when he smells flowers, looks around for a coffin.
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04-17-2025, 06:06 AM
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#20
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: It's a kind of magic.....
Posts: 6,614
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newsguy
JFP, is this the equivalent of DreiBond, or in my case, Yamabond?
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It is similar in performance to DreiBond, and a lot easier to find.
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“Anything really new is invented only in one’s youth. Later, one becomes more experienced, more famous – and more stupid.” - Albert Einstein
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