Replacing the ignition switch

[elav]

Before I realized that you can simply buy the $15 ignition switch part, I had bought the entire assembly. Honestly, replacing the entire assembly was a bit time consuming but easy. Perhaps do it this way to get easier access to the ignition switch part?

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by elav

Before I realized that you can simply buy the $15 ignition switch part, I had bought the entire assembly. Honestly, replacing the entire assembly was a bit time consuming but easy. Perhaps do it this way to get easier access to the ignition switch part?

It's possible I'll end up replacing the entire assembly -- the $15 switch and the mechanical steering lock, which costs considerably more (although eBay has a choice one for $39.99). I hope the electrical switch solves the problem, like it did for several other folks. Although it happened only a couple times out of maybe a thousand, the switch froze solid in the "off" position, and it took a lot of fiddling with it and swearing at it to unfreeze it. Only a couple times, but it's enough for me to order a $15 switch and install it, the contortions required notwithstanding, and hope to hell it takes care of the problem.

[blue62]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

It's possible I'll end up replacing the entire assembly -- the $15 switch and the mechanical steering lock, which costs considerably more (although eBay has a choice one for $39.99). I hope the electrical switch solves the problem, like it did for several other folks. Although it happened only a couple times out of maybe a thousand, the switch froze solid in the "off" position, and it took a lot of fiddling with it and swearing at it to unfreeze it. Only a couple times, but it's enough for me to order a $15 switch and install it, the contortions required notwithstanding, and hope to hell it takes care of the problem.

The mechanical steering lock is exactly that "Mechanical" consists mostly of a spring and plunger.
If you remove the assembly you will find that it malfunctions due to the old "lube" or grease solidifying around the moving parts..

So if you flush all the old grease out of it and start working it will to help free it up.
You have to get all the old grease out. Soak it in solvent blast it out with air pressure. soak it some more. Until it is clean of all old grease. Then use a light lube it will function like new.
I would be very surprised if you find that you need to replace the assembly.

[old911doc]

Removing the electrical part of the ignition switch can be done several different ways. The way that involves the lowest number of steps is to work underneath the dash, squeezing oneself between the seat, the steering wheel, and the dashboard. This method is made somewhat easier by removing the driver’s seat (4 bolts, electrical connections, seat belt), but that approach adds steps and involves lifting the weight of the seat.
I have done this repair four times in my four Boxsters. At my age, 68, I am just too damn lazy to scrunch up underneath the dash.
The way that involves the least heavy lifting and uncomfortable postures is to ‘go in from above’, by removing the instrument binnacle, steering wheel, and left dash vent. This approach :
(1) Disconnect battery ground lead to kill the car’s electrical system, to avoid triggering airbag.
(2) Remove steering wheel airbag with T-27 bit.
(3) Remove steering wheel.
(4) Remove circular grille at left of binnacle to reveal T-20 screw; remove screw.
(5) Put hazard warning switch in active position. Using two small hooks, engage the two holes in the switch, hidden from direct view, and pull switch out, to reveal another T-20 screw; remove screw.
(6) Pry binnacle upward to free it from its blind fasteners, and disconnect the electrical connections from its back and the electrical connector for the hazard switch.
(7) Remove the light switch knob by pressing upward with 1/8” straight-blade screwdriver at the 6 o’clock position of the knob while pulling gently on knob. Then, using 24mm (or is it 22mm?) socket, remove retaining nut from light switch.
(8) In left door jamb end of dash, remove two T-20 screws from dash end. Applying pressure at top edge, disengage the blind fasteners and remove the plastic dash vent.
(9) Using T-20 driver, remove one sheet-metal screw retaining plastic air duct, and remove the duct.
With the binnacle and left air duct removed, the two small set screws which retain the electrical ignition switch can be backed out several turns, to allow the switch to be pulled free from the electrical contacts. DO NOT REMOVE THE SETSCREWS! It is unnecessary, and they are difficult to replace. Getting a small screwdriver to engage the slot in the set screw requires some hand gymnastics, and usually requires working through a mirror.
The purpose of the ‘dissection’ is to allow access with the left hand through the dash vent area and the right hand through the binnacle area.

Notice that almost all these steps are done while you are seated in the driver’s seat, except to remove the left dash end, and to disconnect the wiring on the back of the binnacle. No heavy lifting, and no awkward contortions. Many steps, but simple steps.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by old911doc

The way that involves the least heavy lifting and uncomfortable postures is to ‘go in from above’, by removing the instrument binnacle, steering wheel, and left dash vent.

Doc, many thanks for the step-by-step. That's the kind of info that makes this forum a valuable resource. As I said, I always shoot for minimal disassembly, but it's reassuring to have a more comprehensive approach in my hip pocket, just in case. All the best to you.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by blue62

The mechanical steering lock is exactly that "Mechanical" consists mostly of a spring and plunger.
If you remove the assembly you will find that it malfunctions due to the old "lube" or grease solidifying around the moving parts..

So if you flush all the old grease out of it and start working it will to help free it up.
You have to get all the old grease out. Soak it in solvent blast it out with air pressure. soak it some more. Until it is clean of all old grease. Then use a light lube it will function like new.
I would be very surprised if you find that you need to replace the assembly.

That's valuable information (even though I hope I don't have to use it). Many thanks, Blue!

[LoneWolfGal]

By the way, PedrosGarage has an excellent how-to, complete with photos. Best I've seen online.

https://www.pedrosgarage.com/site-3/ignition-switch.html