Bought a 2000 Boxster S project.
 

Yesterday a 2000 S arrived in my driveway... on a flatbed. The car was at a local Porsche indie, the story being that the engine started to make a noise or vibration or both, was shut off immediately and towed to the shop. The oil filter was removed and there was metal in it so it was deemed an IMS bearing failure. I have not talked to the mechanic and the seller is not very savvy about things mechanical.

Other than the engine the car is in good shape with 169,259 KM (105,472 miles), Arctic Silver Metallic with a black interior. There is a small dent on the rear trunk lid but for the rest the body and paint are very good. It has leather seats, good worn condition. The tool kit is there and I was very happy to find the leather pouch with all the original documentation (I spent the evening looking through the various brochures and manuals... almost like buying a new car!). The tires are new and supposedly the suspension has been renewed.

The option list has some interesting stuff, although I don't know what exactly the options mean.
012 - SportDesign package
222 - Traction control ASR AntriebsSchlupfRegelung
224 - Traction control ABD Automatic Braking Differential (Automatic limited slip)
375 - 376 - electrical sports seats
413 - 18" 993 Turbo-look wheels, front 7.5" ET50 with 225/40 tyres, rear 9" ET52 with 265/35 tyres
680 - DSP Digital Sound Processing

The 18" wheels are gone, but the 17"s are in great condition. Are 222-224 an LSD?
The DSP doesn't look like anything I would use.

As mentioned in another thread, I have a spare 2.7 engine, also from a 2000, that I plan on installing, the 2.7 engine would be a temporary solution. Once the 3.2 is out I can have a look at it to see if it can be repaired. If that is possible it will go back into the car. If not I will sell off any useful parts and put the money towards buying a used 3.2... or... I may have a line on a 3.4. I need this project like a hole in the head, but I couldn't pass on it.

Here is the photo from the ad on Facebook.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1663673741.jpg

I pulled the oil pan today and it doesn't look like this will be an easy fix. I don't think it was the IMSB, what I found was copper shavings, ground up main or rod bearings it would seem.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1663703170.jpg

The reason could well be a partially blocked oil pickup, looks like an excess of sealant from somewhere.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1663703193.jpg

Looks like it will keep you busy for awhile, good luck :cheers:

That`s a great project, the engine may be repairable if it`s just a rod bearing. Did you look at the codes? I also bought an engine that may be useful to rebuild mine, I haven`t had a chance to tear it down yet.

I just went through your wonderful rebuild thread (which is hidden in the Show and tell section)
http://986forum.com/forums/show-tell-gallery/73917-blue-boxster-resurrection-project.html
I am not in a position to do that. Don't have the tools or experience... especially the tools and experience for going further than removing the heads. So I will probably part it out. I do look forward to finding what it looks like inside...

If you weren`t so far from me i`d be interested to buy that engine from you:)

I found an engine at a local recycler. a 2001 S with 130,931 miles (210,839 km). They are asking $3261.05 US ($4399.00 CDN). Thats a lot of miles (and it looks worse in kilometers) but the price is reasonable and it would drop right in. If I were to buy it I would do some maintenance before installation, IMSB, cam chain pads etc. I am planning to have a look at it.

I checked the engine codes with my Durametric yesterday... there weren't any. I presume that the shop that looked at the engine before I bought it cleared the codes while testing the engine. I poked around and checked a few components, the low speed fans don't work so I will have to change a couple of resistors.

I have started to remove the engine, I hope to have it out and the 2.7 installed before the end of the month... I mean next month.
A couple of small projects to temporarily take my mind off the main one... a non folding outside mirror.
http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/82576-outside-mirror-will-not-fold-my-solution.html#post648936
and the broken hinge on the console glove box, see post #7 of this thread.
http://986forum.com/forums/diy-project-guides/78184-986-center-glove-box-hinge-repair.html

When the seller of a used car tells you that there is "nothing to do"... don't believe them!
Actually it's not that bad (other than the dead engine) but a fair amount of maintenance is not up to date including the broken console box hinges, the stuck mirror, low speed fans not working, front and rear lid struts that are weak, broken plastic shields underneath... most of the normal stuff when you buy a 22 year old used car.
The engine has been out at some point, there is a mixture of metric and SAE nuts and bolts holding the exhaust on. I assume they did some work that included putting too much sealant on some mating surfaces... and that is what ended up in the oil pickup screen. There are some oil leaks, the engine is encrusted in oil soaked grunge.
The biggest problem at the moment is that the car has been driven in the winter and there is significant corrosion on most of the fittings. Nothing on the body but bolts are rusty, but not eaten away by the rust... it is the hose clamps and smaller fittings that are doubling the time spent in disassembly. Of the 12 bolts on the headers I think 4 came out, 4 broke and 4 will have to be ground or drilled. The engine that is going in has nice stainless studs installed with brass nuts.
On the positive side, the muffler is an aftermarket NHP (looking forward to hearing that) and many of the suspension parts are new.

Not sure if I mentioned that the engine that came out was seized, I hope to do more investigating when I have finished installing the 2.7l engine.

I ended up buying the Boxster S 3.2l engine mentioned earlier in this thread… it arrived today. I had a quick look at it, after removing the clutch and flywheel.
First surprise was that when I tried to turn the crankshaft it wouldn’t. After a moment or two of confusion I thought perhaps it was hydro-locked for some reason. I removed the spark plugs and it then turned… and cylinder 1 dumped a lot of oil on the ground. I hope that this is because the engine was turned on its side while there was still oil in it and the oil leaked past the rings. Seems to turn over normally now. Where is my borescope when I need it? (answer… somewhere in the garage… or the house).

First good news, the clutch disk is good so I don’t need to buy one.
First bad news… it is a single row IMS bearing.
Second good news… there is an LN IMSB installed!
Second bad news… I’m really not impressed by the engine removal skills of the recycler. Almost all the fluid lines are just cut, rather than disconnected, some wires were not disconnected so the connectors were ripped out. I will have to solder in some new connectors. Also the part of the oil filler tube that attaches to the engine under the intake manifold was broken off.

So the engine isn’t going to drop right in. Lots of work to prepare it, and do some maintenance.

UPDATE:
Using the VIN of the donor car and the engine serial number I found a couple of things.
The donor car was a 2001, but the engine serial number indicates that it is a 2000... with a single row IMSB.
The LN site reports that the bearing was changed less than a year ago in Phœnix AZ. The car then had 123,000 miles (the recycler says it has 133,000 now). The Single Row Pro IMS Retrofit was installed, good for 6 years or 75K miles.

More good news on the new 3.2 engine. The oil filter has no metal in it. There are many little pieces of brown plastic indicating that the timing chain pads need to be changed, but I was planning on doing that anyway.

Next the oil pan came off and I found sealant in the oil pickup screen (like the original engine pictured above, but less of it)

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1666439960.jpg

... and many plastic bits that I am assuming at this point are from the chain tensioner pads. That is the sealant that was in the oil pickup. The piece of plastic at the top looks like the head of a plastic rivet?!

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1666440049.jpg


The amount of sealant used on the oil pan is a lesson on how not to do it, way too much. The excess comes off and ends up in the oil pickup screen. What I don't understand is that the sealant around the pan is black and in the pickup it is beige???

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1666440116.jpg

The truck that delivered the engine didn't have a crane, so the delivery man dragged the engine across the tailgate lift, despite my warnings that the oil pan is somewhat fragile.
This is the result... or maybe it was cracked before. I intend to ask for a replacement.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1666441222.jpg

Aluminum castings sometimes have what appear to be cracks but I wouldn’t take a chance on that oil pan I’d you don’t have to.
There has got to be tons of them out there cheap if they don’t come through for you

Update time... the 2.7l engine is installed and it started right up (I knew it would... I can say that now). I am putting the rest of the car together, got the exhaust and the diagonal bars etc. on today. Tomorrow the bumper cover will go on and then I am ready for a road test... except that the alternator is making a terrible noise. I broke a flange on the alternator that came with the car because the mounting bolt was totally corroded in place. I used another alternator that came off my ebay engine. I think I will have to pull it and replace the bearings, it really is loud and I'm afraid it will seize and cause mayhem with the accessory belt.
Also a couple of pesky oil leaks, one from my aftermarket oil pressure sensor (the oil drips down on to the exhaust so I have to fix that one) and the other is the left side oil scavenge pump flange. I will live with that for awhile, but I should be able to change the o-ring with the engine in the car.
Despite the oil leak the oil pressure gauge works fine, I'm glad I added that, makes starting an engine that I have worked on less stressful.

Congrats on the start up! That's always a good sound after spending so many hours in preparation. :cheers:

Hello elgyqc yes, congratulations indeed! :)

I didn't get the bumper cover on but I did take the two alternators apart and combined the pieces to get one that is quiet and works. I didn't replace the bearings, that would have added a couple of days and I am in a hurry to road test the car. Next time I'm in there.

The car is now on the road and I am working out the final bugs. When I bought the car I started a separate thread to get help on installing the 2.7l engine in the S, there is some information in that is relevant to this thread.
http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/82551-installing-2-7l-engine-boxster-s-same-year.html

I have accumulated over 100 KM on short trips around town and the engine is running better as the ECU gets used to it.
I had a high idle and it was giving the check engine code P0507 (high idle, duh) which would indicate a vacuum leak. I took the engine cover off and fiddled around... and found the brake booster hose was not properly pushed on. With that done the idle was fine.
Other minor problems, now corrected, a leaking coolant hose on the front of the engine (not properly installed or clamp not tight enough) and a small oil leak from the chain adjuster (tensioner) just under the A/C compressor.
I am starting to enjoy driving the car, at first I had the engine covers off so I could check the engine and hear any problems... the disadvantage with that is that you hear all sorts of things that are likely normal... that you don't hear with the covers and insulation in place, which encourages you to imagine all sorts of terrible things. With the covers on it sounds down right normal.
Now I have to get to work on the 3.2l engine I bought so that it will be ready to go into the car in the spring.

Today I started work on the 3.2l replacement engine. First thing I did was to verify the cylinders with my borescope... and there is no sign of scoring, that's a relief.
So far I have the bank one camshafts off so the tensioner pads can be replaced. The cams were properly synchronised (evidently, or the engine would not have run) but the short chain that connects the them was not installed the way it is supposed to be, with the odd coloured links aligned with the dimples on the cams.
Secondly I found the source of the beige sealant that was in the oil pickup screen. It was used on the cam cover to head joint. There was not a lot of it but the excess that is squeezed out of the mating surfaces does not stay in place, it easily comes loose and ends up in the bottom of the engine. The black sealant on the oil pan on the other hand stays in place (to the point where it is difficult to remove) even though there is a lot more of it.
Newart's video on changing the tensioner pads (starring yours truly) is very useful.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xXfR60GAJd0

I tried that too, they don’t sound so good with a quiet exhaust and all that accessory noise running right behind your ear.

Are you sure the small chain was offset? The colored links line up with the dimples only at assembly, some chains are not even marked. The dots on the sprockets have to be six links apart.

OK, now I understand. I assumed, for no reason, that the chain length and sprocket sizes meant that those links would always line up with the dimples, not very logical when you think about it. Thanks.

I had to take some parts that were missing from my replacement engine off the broken engine... and have ended up starting to disassemble it. The heads are off and next is splitting the crank case. The heads and cylinders look fine. The videos on youtube by "Man in a garage" are great and I am encouraged to go further. Depending on the condition of the rods and the crank I may even consider putting the engine back together rather than parting it out. I'll post pictures when I see the crank.

Found the problem...
 

I split the crankcase this morning and found the problem. The big end of piston 2's rod had spun the bearing.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1670728010.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1670728039.jpg

Tomorrow I'll try to get a picture of the crankshaft.

The other bearings seem to be OK but I won't know for sure till I get the crankshaft out.

I think this came as no surprise! Rebuild definitely worth your consideration. I'd do it if I had a nice heated garage. ;)

I've started to think about it...
Today I took the bearing carrier apart to inspect the crankshaft. The main bearings beside the #2 piston are toast... all the others look good. The crankshaft journal looks OK. The big question is if the journal for the the big end of #2 is beyond repair. It is lightly scored, enough to feel it but not enough for a fingernail to catch on. I'm going to have to take it to a professional for an opinion.

This photo of the big end journal is not great but you can see the scoring, it looks worse than it feels. The main journal on the left is the one that has fried bearings.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1670897928.jpg

Here is one of the fried bearings. The bearing carrier seems to be fine when the offending bearing is removed.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1670897945.jpg

National Pieces et Moteurs can check it out
9385 Rue de Meaux, Saint-Léonard, QC H1R 3H3

If the scoring is not too bad it may be polished out and the clearance may still be within spec. The conrod is probably to be replaced if the bearing has spun inside of it. Sometimes you can find the crank-bearing carrier assembly for cheap on ebay, as an alternative.

I believe that this condition was caused by elongated conrod bolts, result of a Mickey Mouse quality hardware used by the manufacturer.. :mad:

I don`t think so. If the big end bearing seizes up the rotating journal will spin the inserts in the conrod big end bore, as they are held in place by small notches which are easy to break. Conrod bolts have nothing to do with this. This failure is typically caused by the lack of oil pressure at high rpms, due to partially blocked pick up screen.

Sorry, I was assuming that your spun bearing was one of the conrod bearings (caused by bolt stretching)

The spun bearing was a con rod big end bearing. The main bearing next to it was also in bad shape, but it did not spin. The crankshaft is now at the shop mentioned by Newart in a previous post and I am waiting to see what they say.
I have no experience with this kind of failure, but at this point I'm thinking that a lack of oil pressure toasted the two bearings (I'm assuming that the oil for piston 2's big end comes from the #3 main bearing).
I bought the car with the engine in this condition so have no idea of what the oil level was at the time of failure. I do know that there was a lot of sealant in the oil pickup screen... see the beginning of this thread.

I started a new thread to discuss what to do with the old, broken engine.
http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/82796-what-can-i-do-3-2l-engine.html

Got back to work on the replacement engine. The new chain tensioner pads are installed in bank 1 and the oil filler tube is on the engine (the original was broken off when I got the engine)... installing it with the intake manifold in place was a challenge, I had to take the AOS to get working room. The AOS should be replaced anyway.
Got the cams off bank 2 and found this on the cam cover...

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1672351596.jpg

Was this to prevent oil leaking with old o-rings, I wonder. I had to beat the tubes out with my rubber hammer... but oil had been leaking despite this.

And... sealant overflow, that channel is supposed to be open or there can be oil return problems according to Jake Raby. This is the sealant that I found in the oil pickup screen.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1672351848.jpg

I found another missing electrical connector, for an O2 sensor if I remember correctly. This time the wire was cut, not ripped out. I have been able to figure out what the connectors are, which is not evident given that they are not in the parts Katalog. The local Porsche parts department couldn't help beyonds saying that they are VW parts. I have ordered replacements for 2 of them. The third one is a Mercedes part number so I will have to visit the dealer... or see if I can find one at a scrap yard.

Here's link to the info what I used for new O2 sensor wireing and connectors that are working real well:
http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/78147-02-sensor-wire-question-header-hi-flow-cat-install.html#post619783

So I'm going to check out a 2003 at the local pick a part. If you can let me know exactly which connectors you need, I'd be happy to snip them off the car provided I can get to them. Just send me a list with what they are and maybe pics and where they are located and/or part numbers. I'll send them to you for whatever they charge me and shipping. Just be aware I will cut the wires with a few inches of wire unless there is a way to get it without cutting which there usually isn't so you will have to splice them into your harness.
Let me know ASAP.

Thanks for the offer. If it doesn't work out or they want crazy money no problem I think I have alternate sources. The pictures of the unbroken connectors are from another engine I have.
Connector 1 on right side of the engine, exits the wiring harness between 2nd and 3rd legs of the intake manifold and goes to the secondary air pump (or the engine fan)

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1672678424.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1672678445.jpg

Connector 2 on right side of the engine, exits the wiring harness between near the first leg of the intake manifold and goes to the engine fan (or the secondary air pump)

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1672678463.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1672678482.jpg

Connector 3 on left side of the engine, goes between the wires and the bracket on the valve cover. There is also one on the right side of the engine which might be easier if your are already in there for the other connectors.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1672678498.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1672678513.jpg

Thanks in advance.

Ok, it might take a few days as it's been raining here a lot. Your explanation of parts needed is very good except I'm not sure what Connector 3 connects? You say from the harness to the "bracket on the cylinder head" but I'm not sure what you mean exactly. Is it for the cam position sensor?

And ha on the connectors 1 and 2 as those are the same ones I ripped off when lowering my engine. But don't worry as I've already located some for my car. Hell, I might just start grabbing these on every junkyard car from now on since they are easy to forget.

Also, I posted a thread awhile ago in Rennlist forum about getting into the engine bay from the top when I find a car in the junkyard and you posted about getting the car into service mode manually. Did you mean with no battery power at all? Someone else posted how to jump the relay but I would still need some kind of power. I wonder what cheap and easy to carry battery might be available for this purpose. Maybe a rechrargeable power tool battery? Does anyone know? If so, please DM me or post in this Rennlist thread:

https://rennlist.com/forums/boxster-and-boxster-s-986-forum/1281523-boxster-at-pick-a-part-how-do-i-put-it-in-service-mode-with-no-battery.html