It is for the O2 sensor as I remember it. The wire that I need exits the wiring harness and goes to the bracket that is bolted to the cam cover where it is connected to the wire that comes up from the O2 sensor in the exhaust system.

I posted the relevant owner's manual pages to the above thread.

Got it. Stand by....

Not kidding about the rain and it seems that we have a lot more on the way (thankfully as we had been on a draught for many, many years)..

Regarding the battery (or power source), I saw in Costco a small (rechargeable) battery pack that claims to be able to jump start a car a few times it looks very portable (size of a book) and I am very tempted to buy one to take on my junkyard trips as many times you cannot determine the mileage of a car or to check if an electric component works or not before removing it, someone here may have one and hopefully share their comments.
.

Once I needed to pull a power seat from a car at a Pick ur Part and I asked them if I can bring the battery from my car to power the seat so I can move it to get access to the bolts. They said that`s not allowed bc it`s a fire hazard :D I think you can smuggle a small battery in though, or you can assemble a battery pack using 8 AA batteries for instance. Or connect wires to your power tool and use its battery as a power source.

I was considering the AA battery pack but wasn't sure if it would be strong enough to run the top motor so I figured a sawzall battery might be better. Plus, it's always fun to have a sawzall in the junkyard.

And the rain has finally lifted so I'm off the junkyard....

The only one I got is the O2 connector. Both fan/aux air connectors were broken. It looked like the engine was removed (breaking those connectors) and then put back just to get rid of the car.

OK, thanks for the effort. I think I already have an alternative for the O2 censor, so hold off on sending it. I'll get back to you if I need it.
Maybe I should market the procedure I used for verifying that everything was disconnected last time I pulled an engine... passing a string all around the engine to see what it caught on.

Bank 2 is back together with new tensioner pads.
I reinstalled the spark plug tubes with new o-rings that I bought from oringsandmore (no affiliation). The spark plugs and coils are also installed.
While the engine is on the stand I am testing the vacuum system lines and components.
While doing this I noticed some interesting details about this engine. Despite being from a 2001 Boxster S, the engine serial number indicates that it was built in 2000 but it has the single row IMSB and uses the newer white plastic injectors from later engines. So an example of the mixed up things Porsche did in the change-over year of 2001. As mentioned earlier an LN IMSB has been installed.

It has been awhile since I posted, mid-winter lethargy.
I replaced all the vacuum lines with bulk lines from Porsche. They kept slipping out of the rubber elbows and "Y"s if I so much as touched them, so I ended up putting spring clips on them.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1678588298.jpg

I checked that all the valves and other elements of the system worked but there was still a vacuum leak which I traced to the vacuum reservoir. I used my homemade can of compressed air to test the reservoir after getting it wet and found the leak in the bottom at the edge. The blue arrow indicates the positioning pin that goes in the mount and the red one where the leak is.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1678588863.jpg

I have a second used reservoir and it had a leak in the same place vis-a-vis the pin.
I wonder if vibration passed through the mount causes it to crack here.
I think I will reseal them instead of buying a new one.

The snow is almost starting to melt so I have been shovelling it from around the Boxsters to be ready to get them mobile when snow tire season ends in less than a week. Yay!

I repaired the reservoirs by putting a bead of Seal-All around the base where the cracks were. Before the sealant set I used a vacuum pump to introduce a vacuum into the reservoir to hopefully pull the sealant into the crack. I then strengthened the sector beside the mounting pin, where the leaks were, with Sugru (I love yellow on a Boxster...). Both reservoirs now hold vacuum and may just be stronger than new ones.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1678653801.jpg

I like that you attempt to fix everything that most of us would just toss and replace. Hope it`s gonna hold :cheers:

Thanks, it's half because I don't have money to throw away and half because I don't like to waste things that can be fixed... and an extra half because I enjoy the challenge.
My only worry with the reservoir is that the plastic is so old it will fail somewhere else, like the fitting for the vacuum line that looks a bit fragile. But now that I know what I am doing I could remove the reservoir with the engine in the car, although it would be a big PITA.

The new RMS is installed, the old one was leaking, although not a lot.
I took the opportunity of having to remove the engine from the engine stand to test my "Low rise dolly" which is explained here.
http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/83130-engine-swap-%96-getting-enough-clearance-quickjack.html

It has been awhile since I posted, I haven't been very efficient this spring and some house stuff took me away for a couple of weeks.
The replacement engine was almost ready... then I made a mistake that took awhile to correct, but I am almost back to where I was a month ago.
Meanwhile I started the process of removing the 2.7 engine that has been in the car since last fall. It sure goes a lot easier when the nuts and bolts haven't had time to rust up... and the fact that all the exhaust hardware is stainless steel. I'll be ready to drop the engine this week.
I have to change the outer CV boots, one is ripped and the other is barely hanging on, so I removed the half-shafts. The CV joints feel tight so I will disassemble and grease them while installing the new boots.
I found two new problems, the parking brake shoes are shot... and when I removed the rear wheels I realized that the wheel bolts are wrong, perhaps dangerously so.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1686519268.jpg

On the left is one of the incorrect bolts, on the right a Porsche bolt. The shoulder of the Porsche bolt provides a lot of contact area between the bolt and the wheel, the other bolt has a contact area of only about a 1/16 of an inch wide. I can imagine the wheel being damaged by tapping a curb or even hard cornering over a bumpy surface. I will have to inspect the wheels. I had a similar problem with my 928, someone had installed non-Porsche wheels and used aluminum Porsche bolts from a 944 - they were all broken at the point where they contacted the wheel.
My buddy Newart came to the rescue with a box of Porsche bolts left over from when he converted to studs.

The 2.7 engine is out after some complications. I am starting the reassembly process for the car with the new parking brakes and regreasing the half-shafts, with new outer CV boots.
Then I found a new problem, one of the transmission mounts left a puddle of oil on the floor where I left it after removal.

I ordered transmission mounts from PRG Products, the price is competitive and they should last a long time.
The half shafts are done... a job just as messy as the last time I did it.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1688247580.jpg

I have a magnetic drain plug in the 2.7 engine but didn't feel like switching it over so I made my own with a small magnet and JB Weld.


http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1688248036.jpg


http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1688248065.jpg

What's the worse that can happen? Other than all the oil leaking out or the magnet separating from the plug and getting sucked into the oil pickup... I'll try it out for awhile and see how it works.

Meanwhile I have been trying to repair my cheap imported engine hoist which isn't able to hold the arm up anymore, even with no load. Couldn't find a proper seal anywhere so I bought this off Amazon.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B09CL46ZXC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
I know nothing about hydraulics and I suspect this will not be up to the pressure in the hoist's cylinder but I am looking at this as a proof of concept. I see seals the same size with much higher load capacities that I will try if this one blows out. Today I installed the seal and I was able to lift the arm and it seems to be hold the pressure so far.

The seal in the engine hoist seems to be holding up, I was able to lift the engine off the furniture dolly and it works like new.

I did a walk around of the new engine to be sure that everything is installed and that the wiring harness connectors and the vacuum lines are still in place.

When the recyclers removed the engine they cut some of the lines so I repaired the power steering and fuel return lines.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1688699622.jpg

I had difficulty installing the spark plug tubes, perhaps because the o-rings are a bit larger than OEM... I broke one of the tubes while encouraging it to seat with a rubber hammer. So I made a tool to press the tubes in using a socket and the coil bolts. They popped right in with this.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1688699918.jpg

The transmission, clutch and flywheel came off the 2.7 today and they will go on the 3.2 tomorrow. Then I can start installing the new engine.

When I was preparing to remove the engine I was unable to disconnect the dipstick tube from the engine, old arthritic fingers don't help, so I cut the tube and repaired it with a piece of rubber fuel line... just the right size.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1689026255.jpg

Today I installed new coolant reservoir, good thing the old one was about to fail...

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1689026663.jpg

I can't believe I did this a couple of years ago with the engine in the car, it was a huge PITA even with the engine out.

The engine is under the car and ready to be installed, I was waiting for the arrival of my new PRG transmission mounts. Here they are ready to go.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1689435263.jpg

I couldn't find the torque for these mounts so emailed Greg at PRG... 60 ft/lbs. He also mentioned a detail that might interest some of you who have these mounts.
"There is a crush sleeve, get the bolt tight, about 60lbs. The bolt torque has no relevance on the bushing preload. The bushings are set to a predetermined preload by the length of that sleeve. you could machine a longer or shorter crush sleeve if you wanted to try different settings "

My last problem before trying to start the engine was a leaking power steering return hose... the one I rebuilt, see the picture in post # 57 above, it's the hose on the left of the picture.
When I filled the reservoir it started to leak even without pressure in the system. I had used 1/2" hydraulic hose in place of 12mm and the difference was enough that even with it clamped hard it was leaking. 12mm hose is hard to come by, especially late on a Friday when dealerships that might have it are closed. So yesterday I went to Kenny U Pull and found a P/S hose on a BMW that was long enough. The installation with the engine in the car was a challenge but I got it in, with 2 clamps on each end and so far it is leak free.
Next installment... seeing if it will start...

My buddy Tony came over to witness the first start... here it is!

https://youtu.be/dHtnEDkM1qg

The throttle control wire connector had been disconnected and hidden at the front of the engine. After the first start I was able to find it and fish it out and connect it to the throttle body for the second start.
Biggest problem now is an important oil leak from the oil cooler. I changed the o-rings so don't know what's happening there. But it runs! It has been about 8 months since I bought the engine and all that time I was wondering ...

I haven't run it long enough to get the oil hot. but on the first start the oil pressure shot up to the max on the gauge after a few seconds.

This morning I installed my new oil cooler, explanation here:
http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/83743-i-seem-have-leaking-oil-cooler-heat-exchanger.html

... and put the coolant back in the engine... ran it for final leak checks then dropped the Quickjacks and backed it out of the garage. So far I have done a couple of short trips around the neighborhood to make sure everything important works and to check again for leaks.
The transmission is marginally better at going into first than it was before the fluid change and new transmission mounts. I will perhaps try adjusting the shifter cables.
The other problem is that the temperature gauge doesn't work. I remembered seeing this thread
http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/59061-coolant-temperature-sensor-connector-2000-2002-a.html

... it seems to have the explanation. The replacement engine has a 2 pin temperature sensor and the original engine had a 4 pin connector... it seems the ECU is looking for the 4 pin signal like from the original engine. You can't just change the sensor because the wiring harness connector is 2 or 4 pin depending. The above thread has a workaround... till then I will drive with my computer on the passenger seat and check the temperature via my Durametric.
Three months for an engine swap is slow even for me, but it seems to be good. After some more road testing I will have to decide which Boxster to sell, this one which is an S or my 2000 base... which is running so well I am leaning towards keeping it. But maybe the S will be able to win me over. Decisions, decisions.

Today I did a road test (about 30 KM), other than it being hot in the car with the engine covers off and the top up, all went well. As is always the case when running with the engine covers off there are all sorts of strange noises... that go away when the covers and insulation go back on. The engine temperature stayed at 80 to 90 degrees C.
Shifting is still not as smooth as my 5-speed base, but is better than it was.

Somewhat unrelated question for you. With the Quickjack, which direction did you use it? I have mine with the hose pointed towards the front of the car, so when you raise it, the front of the car moves backward, and the locking arm is diagonal from upper right to lower left, looking at the drivers side. This seems logical as most of the weight is rear/middle, as opposed to a front engine car where they show it the opposite with the hoses coming out the back. I've seen pictures on here and they are the opposite of what I did. I have the 7000 model for reference. If I should turn it around I can, but it seems solid the way it is.

I have used mine both ways, lately I have done it the opposite to you (front of the car moves forward) because I had to use my engine hoist to lift the rear of the car to get the engine out from underneath, and it is less likely to tip forward with the installation that way. I have changed a few things and now don't need to raise the rear of the car so it doesn't matter anymore.

That makes sense. I'm hoping with the low dolly I have plus I've added some height to the Quickjack that I should be good to roll the engine out. Worst case I can switch the Quickjack around as you said.

Did you see my thread on this question?
http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/83130-engine-swap-%96-getting-enough-clearance-quickjack.html

I did see that, yes. I have the QJ 7000 which has some extra lift height built in, plus I made some taller risers out of hardwood and hockey pucks, I think I have around 24 1/2 inches below the black cross member support. Based on some quick checks, I won't have enough space, so I will likely have to do something like what you said and lift the rear up to clear.

I have not used the quick jack enough times yet, but always wander if the balance of the car would be upset (and fell off..) if I tried to raise the car one end of the car while the car is up on the quick jack.

The reason I am asking this is because I built a set of wooden crates that I use to put the car up with the weight on the tires to perform the alignment, and the process is a bit tedious since my car it's pretty lowered and require to use the floor jack several times to put the car on top of the crates, somewhere.

But if the rear, or the front axle, can be raised more (off the quick jack..) with the floor jack it should make the procedure way quicker, but was afraid of the car falling and getting damaged.

PS: I have a picture of the car on top of the wooden crates if someone wants to see it.

Tres belle job félicitation

I found a work around for the non working temperature gauge, it is detailed here:
http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/83776-my-temporary-temperature-gauge.html#post655105

Yes you have to be careful with the Quickjacks, they become unstable if not loaded equally front and back. My situation is more complicated because I use extensions that sit on top of the Quickjacks and make it long enough to reach the Boxster lift points. These extensions move around as soon as one end is not loaded... that is why I am so interested in finding a way of removing the engine with just the clearance provided by the Quickjacks.

I have been working on the broken underbody panels for a couple of days.
http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/83789-repairing-underbody-panels.html

Yesterday I pulled off the front bumper cover to:
1) clean the radiators... wasn't really necessary, they were pretty clean but now I know.
2) reroute the cable for the frunk latch. I prefer to have it where I can find it without removing the fender liner.
3) replace the fan ballast resistors which are shot on both sides, which means no low fan speed.
Here is one of my DIY resistors ready to install

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1691832582.jpg

4) add screens behind the air intakes to keep leaves etc. out of the radiators in the future.

The Boxster's low ride height takes a toll on the bottom of the front bumper cover as well as the underbody panels. Like other covers that I have worked on many of the anchor points are broken and various fasteners are missing or have been added to replace the missing ones. Later I will have to go back and add the missing fasteners and fix some of the broken anchor points.

I learned this lesson again yesterday, pulled into a driveway entrance that didn't look all that high and seriously scraped the bottom of the nose both arriving and leaving. No structural damage.

Today I did a serious road test from home to the US border to pick up alternator parts that Homeoboxter sent me. Over 200 KM with stop and go city traffic, a long haul on the highway, 15 minutes of idling at the border crossing, rain and sun. No problems, oil pressure and temperature behaved themselves and the car ran great. My only complaint is that the transmission is a bit hard to get into first when stopped and the clutch is not as smooth as on my base 986.

Tomorrow we are off for the weekend, we will put about 800KM on the car for the return trip. I changed the "break-in" oil that was in the engine and checked the filter, no metal at all, some very small brown plastic bits, likely left over from before I changed the timing chain pads.

Yesterday we got back from our almost 1000KM trip from Montreal up the Saint Lawrence River to Baie-St-Paul. The car ran almost flawlessly, so I am counting the engine transplant as a win.
The biggest annoyance was a problem with launching the car and low speed throttle control. It took me awhile to realise that the fault lay with what others have called "Sticktion", ie the gas pedal sticks just a bit than moves a bit more than intended... it is not easy to feel through the pedal and your foot, but it can have a big effect on enjoyment of the car, especially in traffic.
Once I knew what I was looking for I found several articles:
This one deals with the gas pedal disassemble and lubrication, details in post #16... this is what I followed to solve my problem.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/380904-edit-exactly-how-should-the-gas-pedal-be-removed-feel.html

Another detailed account starting at post #22
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/371561-sticky-accelerator-on-cpo-996-a-2.html

And this guy had to go a step further and service the sensor that the pedal actuates because it was binding.
http://986forum.com/forums/diy-project-guides/61142-e-gas-accelerator-pedal-service.html

So, I was about to wrap this project up after looking into a few anomalies, like the non functional spoiler. I had a look under the rear of the trunk liner and found this:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1692725569.jpg
All those connectors don't do anything, they start and end on the same wire. I assume something else was connected at some point. Also the red wire has been added, it goes from one taillight to the other...???

and this:
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1692725596.jpg
Those holes are supposed to have the bolts holding the spoiler motor in them.

plus this:
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1692725614.jpg
Looks like the connectors for the spoiler motor and the trunk lid opener.

It seems this car has some more surprises and tasks for me!

After pulling out the trunk liner I removed the spoiler motor mounting plate and was not too surprised to find the motor was missing.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1692976463.jpg

I'm in the market for a replacement assembly.

More surprising was that I found some rust in the trunk...

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1692976610.jpg

... not major. I'll have to clean that up and coat it with rust inhibitor.

And I discovered that my trunk latch does not have the emergency cable that is normally hidden in the wheel well. There is the cable from the lever under the driver's door and an electrically operated cable that I assume should be operated from the key fob... that doesn't.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1692979048.jpg

I can't help you with the other stuff, but for months I keep seeing a spoiler assembly on Kijiji local to me, but for the life of me I can't find it right now. If it pops up again I'll send you the link, but maybe it's been sold.

Amazon carries the fasteners used in the belly panels and wheelwell liners:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XDXB11H

Thanks for the thought. I found one on Facebook in Brampton... I'll get it next week.