Bought a 2000 Boxster S project.

[elgyqc]

My buddy Tony came over to witness the first start... here it is!

https://youtu.be/dHtnEDkM1qg

The throttle control wire connector had been disconnected and hidden at the front of the engine. After the first start I was able to find it and fish it out and connect it to the throttle body for the second start.
Biggest problem now is an important oil leak from the oil cooler. I changed the o-rings so don't know what's happening there. But it runs! It has been about 8 months since I bought the engine and all that time I was wondering ...

I haven't run it long enough to get the oil hot. but on the first start the oil pressure shot up to the max on the gauge after a few seconds.

[elgyqc]

This morning I installed my new oil cooler, explanation here:
I seem to have a leaking oil cooler. (heat exchanger)

... and put the coolant back in the engine... ran it for final leak checks then dropped the Quickjacks and backed it out of the garage. So far I have done a couple of short trips around the neighborhood to make sure everything important works and to check again for leaks.
The transmission is marginally better at going into first than it was before the fluid change and new transmission mounts. I will perhaps try adjusting the shifter cables.
The other problem is that the temperature gauge doesn't work. I remembered seeing this thread
Coolant temperature sensor connector 2000 to 2002

... it seems to have the explanation. The replacement engine has a 2 pin temperature sensor and the original engine had a 4 pin connector... it seems the ECU is looking for the 4 pin signal like from the original engine. You can't just change the sensor because the wiring harness connector is 2 or 4 pin depending. The above thread has a workaround... till then I will drive with my computer on the passenger seat and check the temperature via my Durametric.
Three months for an engine swap is slow even for me, but it seems to be good. After some more road testing I will have to decide which Boxster to sell, this one which is an S or my 2000 base... which is running so well I am leaning towards keeping it. But maybe the S will be able to win me over. Decisions, decisions.

[elgyqc]

Today I did a road test (about 30 KM), other than it being hot in the car with the engine covers off and the top up, all went well. As is always the case when running with the engine covers off there are all sorts of strange noises... that go away when the covers and insulation go back on. The engine temperature stayed at 80 to 90 degrees C.
Shifting is still not as smooth as my 5-speed base, but is better than it was.

[redpepperracing]

Somewhat unrelated question for you. With the Quickjack, which direction did you use it? I have mine with the hose pointed towards the front of the car, so when you raise it, the front of the car moves backward, and the locking arm is diagonal from upper right to lower left, looking at the drivers side. This seems logical as most of the weight is rear/middle, as opposed to a front engine car where they show it the opposite with the hoses coming out the back. I've seen pictures on here and they are the opposite of what I did. I have the 7000 model for reference. If I should turn it around I can, but it seems solid the way it is.

[elgyqc]

Originally Posted by redpepperracing

Somewhat unrelated question for you. With the Quickjack, which direction did you use it? I have mine with the hose pointed towards the front of the car, so when you raise it, the front of the car moves backward, and the locking arm is diagonal from upper right to lower left, looking at the drivers side. This seems logical as most of the weight is rear/middle, as opposed to a front engine car where they show it the opposite with the hoses coming out the back. I've seen pictures on here and they are the opposite of what I did. I have the 7000 model for reference. If I should turn it around I can, but it seems solid the way it is.

I have used mine both ways, lately I have done it the opposite to you (front of the car moves forward) because I had to use my engine hoist to lift the rear of the car to get the engine out from underneath, and it is less likely to tip forward with the installation that way. I have changed a few things and now don't need to raise the rear of the car so it doesn't matter anymore.

[redpepperracing]

That makes sense. I'm hoping with the low dolly I have plus I've added some height to the Quickjack that I should be good to roll the engine out. Worst case I can switch the Quickjack around as you said.

[elgyqc]

Originally Posted by redpepperracing

That makes sense. I'm hoping with the low dolly I have plus I've added some height to the Quickjack that I should be good to roll the engine out. Worst case I can switch the Quickjack around as you said.

Did you see my thread on this question?
Engine swap – getting enough clearance with a Quickjack

[redpepperracing]

Originally Posted by elgyqc

Did you see my thread on this question?
Engine swap – getting enough clearance with a Quickjack

I did see that, yes. I have the QJ 7000 which has some extra lift height built in, plus I made some taller risers out of hardwood and hockey pucks, I think I have around 24 1/2 inches below the black cross member support. Based on some quick checks, I won't have enough space, so I will likely have to do something like what you said and lift the rear up to clear.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by elgyqc

I have used mine both ways, lately I have done it the opposite to you (front of the car moves forward) because I had to use my engine hoist to lift the rear of the car to get the engine out from underneath, and it is less likely to tip forward with the installation that way. I have changed a few things and now don't need to raise the rear of the car so it doesn't matter anymore.

I have not used the quick jack enough times yet, but always wander if the balance of the car would be upset (and fell off..) if I tried to raise the car one end of the car while the car is up on the quick jack.

The reason I am asking this is because I built a set of wooden crates that I use to put the car up with the weight on the tires to perform the alignment, and the process is a bit tedious since my car it's pretty lowered and require to use the floor jack several times to put the car on top of the crates, somewhere.

But if the rear, or the front axle, can be raised more (off the quick jack..) with the floor jack it should make the procedure way quicker, but was afraid of the car falling and getting damaged.

PS: I have a picture of the car on top of the wooden crates if someone wants to see it.

[JacquesB]

Tres belle job félicitation

[elgyqc]

I found a work around for the non working temperature gauge, it is detailed here:
My temporary temperature gauge.

[elgyqc]

Originally Posted by Gilles

I have not used the quick jack enough times yet, but always wander if the balance of the car would be upset (and fell off..) if I tried to raise the car one end of the car while the car is up on the quick jack.

The reason I am asking this is because I built a set of wooden crates that I use to put the car up with the weight on the tires to perform the alignment, and the process is a bit tedious since my car it's pretty lowered and require to use the floor jack several times to put the car on top of the crates, somewhere.

But if the rear, or the front axle, can be raised more (off the quick jack..) with the floor jack it should make the procedure way quicker, but was afraid of the car falling and getting damaged.

PS: I have a picture of the car on top of the wooden crates if someone wants to see it.

Yes you have to be careful with the Quickjacks, they become unstable if not loaded equally front and back. My situation is more complicated because I use extensions that sit on top of the Quickjacks and make it long enough to reach the Boxster lift points. These extensions move around as soon as one end is not loaded... that is why I am so interested in finding a way of removing the engine with just the clearance provided by the Quickjacks.

[elgyqc]

I have been working on the broken underbody panels for a couple of days.
Repairing underbody panels

Yesterday I pulled off the front bumper cover to:
1) clean the radiators... wasn't really necessary, they were pretty clean but now I know.
2) reroute the cable for the frunk latch. I prefer to have it where I can find it without removing the fender liner.
3) replace the fan ballast resistors which are shot on both sides, which means no low fan speed.
Here is one of my DIY resistors ready to install



4) add screens behind the air intakes to keep leaves etc. out of the radiators in the future.

The Boxster's low ride height takes a toll on the bottom of the front bumper cover as well as the underbody panels. Like other covers that I have worked on many of the anchor points are broken and various fasteners are missing or have been added to replace the missing ones. Later I will have to go back and add the missing fasteners and fix some of the broken anchor points.

[elgyqc]

Originally Posted by elgyqc

... The Boxster's low ride height takes a toll on the bottom of the front bumper cover as well as the underbody panels...

I learned this lesson again yesterday, pulled into a driveway entrance that didn't look all that high and seriously scraped the bottom of the nose both arriving and leaving. No structural damage.

Today I did a serious road test from home to the US border to pick up alternator parts that Homeoboxter sent me. Over 200 KM with stop and go city traffic, a long haul on the highway, 15 minutes of idling at the border crossing, rain and sun. No problems, oil pressure and temperature behaved themselves and the car ran great. My only complaint is that the transmission is a bit hard to get into first when stopped and the clutch is not as smooth as on my base 986.

Tomorrow we are off for the weekend, we will put about 800KM on the car for the return trip. I changed the "break-in" oil that was in the engine and checked the filter, no metal at all, some very small brown plastic bits, likely left over from before I changed the timing chain pads.

[elgyqc]

Yesterday we got back from our almost 1000KM trip from Montreal up the Saint Lawrence River to Baie-St-Paul. The car ran almost flawlessly, so I am counting the engine transplant as a win.
The biggest annoyance was a problem with launching the car and low speed throttle control. It took me awhile to realise that the fault lay with what others have called "Sticktion", ie the gas pedal sticks just a bit than moves a bit more than intended... it is not easy to feel through the pedal and your foot, but it can have a big effect on enjoyment of the car, especially in traffic.
Once I knew what I was looking for I found several articles:
This one deals with the gas pedal disassemble and lubrication, details in post #16... this is what I followed to solve my problem.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/380904-edit-exactly-how-should-the-gas-pedal-be-removed-feel.html

Another detailed account starting at post #22
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/371561-sticky-accelerator-on-cpo-996-a-2.html

And this guy had to go a step further and service the sensor that the pedal actuates because it was binding.
E-gas accelerator pedal service

[elgyqc]

So, I was about to wrap this project up after looking into a few anomalies, like the non functional spoiler. I had a look under the rear of the trunk liner and found this:


All those connectors don't do anything, they start and end on the same wire. I assume something else was connected at some point. Also the red wire has been added, it goes from one taillight to the other...???

and this:

Those holes are supposed to have the bolts holding the spoiler motor in them.

plus this:

Looks like the connectors for the spoiler motor and the trunk lid opener.

It seems this car has some more surprises and tasks for me!

[elgyqc]

After pulling out the trunk liner I removed the spoiler motor mounting plate and was not too surprised to find the motor was missing.



I'm in the market for a replacement assembly.

More surprising was that I found some rust in the trunk...



... not major. I'll have to clean that up and coat it with rust inhibitor.

And I discovered that my trunk latch does not have the emergency cable that is normally hidden in the wheel well. There is the cable from the lever under the driver's door and an electrically operated cable that I assume should be operated from the key fob... that doesn't.

[redpepperracing]

I can't help you with the other stuff, but for months I keep seeing a spoiler assembly on Kijiji local to me, but for the life of me I can't find it right now. If it pops up again I'll send you the link, but maybe it's been sold.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by elgyqc

I have been working on the broken underbody panels for a couple of days.
Repairing underbody panels
.
.
The Boxster's low ride height takes a toll on the bottom of the front bumper cover as well as the underbody panels. Like other covers that I have worked on many of the anchor points are broken and various fasteners are missing or have been added to replace the missing ones. Later I will have to go back and add the missing fasteners and fix some of the broken anchor points.

Amazon carries the fasteners used in the belly panels and wheelwell liners:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XDXB11H

[elgyqc]

Originally Posted by redpepperracing

I can't help you with the other stuff, but for months I keep seeing a spoiler assembly on Kijiji local to me, but for the life of me I can't find it right now. If it pops up again I'll send you the link, but maybe it's been sold.

Thanks for the thought. I found one on Facebook in Brampton... I'll get it next week.