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Old 05-06-2021, 08:29 AM   #21
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Do you have a factory amp? I dont think that kit takes the amp into consideration, just assumes that there isn't one.

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Old 05-06-2021, 08:32 AM   #22
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I just looked at the back of a cdr220 I have and neither of those connectors would plug into the back.

Might want to reach out to Suncoast to see if they have any instructions. I know I saw a writeup somewhere before but I just always run my own wires & wire to the amp when doing rear speaker installs.
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Old 05-06-2021, 08:34 AM   #23
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Yes, I believe the dash and door speakers are connected to it but the rear speakers go into the radio. I was wondering if that larger connector somehow is for the amp. Instructions say this are connected to the radio. The smaller connector fits into the B labeled group of pins in the middle of the back of the deck.
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Old 05-06-2021, 08:40 AM   #24
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Any thoughts on a better amp that's easy to install if I decide to upgrade that?
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Old 05-06-2021, 09:19 AM   #25
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My go to amp is the mb quart na2-500.5 Not the most powerful, but it's 5 channel and compact. perfect replacement for the factory. Search for some of my other posts. There are better and more powerful amps and doing 2 separate amps isn't an issue but then things start to get a little crazy with running wiring, power, etc. It's a convertible so no matter what you spend it wont ever be as good as a coupe. There is no good way to put a sub in that hides it to where someone wont want to cut your top to take the sub either.

When I replace systems I will typically just cut any factory connector, solder or crimp wires and run things to either an amp or from the head unit depending on the head unit and car. Comes down to budget more then anything. Have had some people that wanted to spend more on a headunit and go less on speakers or some that wanted better speakers & subs. Dont cheap out when it comes to rca cables, always get shielded cables no matter what. For a 986 I usually budget around $500 to replace everything and put in a mid level head unit.
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Old 05-06-2021, 02:05 PM   #26
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I spoke with a tech from Suncoast today, and he told me that the harness with the wires connected is meant to be used if the rear speakers were connected directly to the amp. They don’t mention this in the instructions they included with the kit. The cable that runs from the speakers all the way to the front of the car is meant to be connected to that smaller harness and that goes into the back of the radio. Would’ve been nice if they made that clear from the beginning but it’s a learning experience for me.

I appreciate your input on your set up. I think I may upgrade the amp next to something a little better but not too difficult to install and If that goes well maybe upgrade the deck to Pioneer or something else that’s compatible with the existing set up. I can’t see spending $1300 for the new set up that includes the touchscreen and all of the modern features.
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Old 05-06-2021, 02:25 PM   #27
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$1300? What would you be buying for that much? Apply car play or android auto systems sell for under $400, amp under $200.
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Old 05-06-2021, 02:32 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by john12312 View Post
I spoke with a tech from Suncoast today, and he told me that the harness with the wires connected is meant to be used if the rear speakers were connected directly to the amp. They don’t mention this in the instructions they included with the kit. The cable that runs from the speakers all the way to the front of the car is meant to be connected to that smaller harness and that goes into the back of the radio. Would’ve been nice if they made that clear from the beginning but it’s a learning experience for me.



I appreciate your input on your set up. I think I may upgrade the amp next to something a little better but not too difficult to install and If that goes well maybe upgrade the deck to Pioneer or something else that’s compatible with the existing set up. I can’t see spending $1300 for the new set up that includes the touchscreen and all of the modern features.
If you have a 4 channel amp (which I think all 986s have unless special ordered with the rear speakers from the factory) then the rear speakers cannot be run directly to the factory amp (unless you piggy back it into one of the outputs for the front / dash speakers). I dealt with this a few months ago. Best options are to scrounge up a 6 channel amp or to add a 2 channel amp, which is what I did. Wiring is easy and it fit well next to the factory amp.

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Old 05-06-2021, 05:52 PM   #29
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$1300? What would you be buying for that much? Apply car play or android auto systems sell for under $400, amp under $200.
It Porsche Classic Communications management Plus for the princely sum of $1299.95

The Plus must mean plus $40 for a mandatory connector kit Plus another $135 for Maps so it's damn close to $1500 with tax. I've read that on sunny days the LCD screen is hard to read.
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Old 05-06-2021, 06:59 PM   #30
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Why in the world would you put something in that was outdated 6 months after it was installed at the factory? I'm all for keeping things stock but that is just insane to consider something like that.

Best of luck with the whole thing. I think your going to find that what you are attempting to do is going to end up costing you more then originally planned. Your now going to need to replace the factory amp with a different factory amp and still have less power then you could of had for half the price going with something different.
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Old 05-07-2021, 05:05 AM   #31
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Thanks for the advice. Just to be clear, no way was I going to drop that kind of cash on the PCM. I figured about $600-700 for an upgrade and I'm in $400 so far for the speakers. Are you advising upgrading the deck over the factory amp? Frankly, most of the time when i drive with the top down I have the music off and enjoy listening to the sound of the engine.
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Old 05-07-2021, 07:14 AM   #32
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I agree....my Boxster ONLY "sees" nice top down weather (I raise the top before it goes from my garage in November to winter storage) .....so I could care less about sound quality. I installed new dash speakers because after 20 years the factory ones were "dust"...lol.

Top down and 50-60mph all I care about is the ride.....the family BMW sedan has the sound system I care about......but that's me.
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Old 05-07-2021, 07:54 AM   #33
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For cars that I do work on, I will replace the dash speakers with something decent, door subs get replaced, if there is the rear storage tray I'll put speakers in with the mounts that I designed and make. I'll put a head unit in and an amp.

Dash speakers - $40
Door subs - $60
rear speakers - $40
Head unit - $200
Amp - $150
RCA cables - $40
Install bracket, antanna adapter - $50
Total: $580 MAX

With the top up it's good sound with it down it is decent and pretty good for a convertible. Of course the head unit I might get even cheaper if I find something used like a Kenwood DNX, Alpine INX, Pioneer AVIC, etc. Lately I have not been doing any nav systems, just getting something with carplay/android auto. I dont see any reason to get nav in a head unit since the phone is always going to get updated maps for free anyway.
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Old 05-07-2021, 01:50 PM   #34
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Speaking of door subs.
How much room is there between the "sub" and the door panel ?

Wondering if I can fab an adapter to squeeze a 6.5" woofer into that 5 1/4" opening without it hitting the door panel.

Basically I was gonna cut out a half inch thick HPDE, bolt that into the OEM driver location and dremel it out till it would take a 6.5" shallow mount driver.
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Old 05-07-2021, 02:15 PM   #35
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Dont know. you would have to also do some kind of enclosure for it also or it's sound would be pretty useless. Finding one of good quality and performance isn't going to be easy either.

making a bracket is the easy part.

I just use the sub out of a 5 1/4" component setup and toss the tweeter & crossover cause I always wire the door up to the sub output on a 5 channel amp or to a mono amp.
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Old 05-07-2021, 04:21 PM   #36
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Yeah that was my initial plan.
But I'm having a very hard time finding decent woofers that are actually in stock.

So started making hopeful plans that I could fit a 6.5" which are in stock
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Old 05-08-2021, 09:49 AM   #37
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Speaking of door subs.
How much room is there between the "sub" and the door panel ?

Wondering if I can fab an adapter to squeeze a 6.5" woofer into that 5 1/4" opening without it hitting the door panel.

Basically I was gonna cut out a half inch thick HPDE, bolt that into the OEM driver location and dremel it out till it would take a 6.5" shallow mount driver.
I used an adapter for a mitshibushi, i think was .5” to install 6.5” woofers in the doors. Did not have a clearance issue. I bought some second hand nokia door boxes for 986 to cut up and modify then bolted in used stock wiring harness.
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Old 05-17-2021, 10:00 AM   #38
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Wanted to circle back and thank everyone for their valuable input and advice.

Got the rear speakers installed last week and I couldn't be happier with the sound improvement. What a difference! The door speakers even sound more lively with the rear speaker install. I don't know if I could be happier with a new amp install but I'll enjoy what I have for now.
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Old 05-17-2021, 10:11 AM   #39
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I agree....my Boxster ONLY "sees" nice top down weather (I raise the top before it goes from my garage in November to winter storage) .....so I could care less about sound quality. I installed new dash speakers because after 20 years the factory ones were "dust"...lol.

Top down and 50-60mph all I care about is the ride.....the family BMW sedan has the sound system I care about......but that's me.
Same here. My car doesn't see ice or snow or road salt. If it was my primary car I'd be a little hesitant to work on it not knowing the completion timeline. If you haven't installed the car speakers I highly recommend it as you'll enjoy your car more. I paid $300 to Suncoast to get the set up already put together but it sound like Stl-986 here may have a less expensive alternative. It's 71 and cloudy today, time to take it out and play!
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Old 05-17-2021, 11:14 AM   #40
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The sunset kit is nice (not really theirs though). I have 3d printers though so I didn't want to pay someone for something I can make myself not to mention having to use their specific speakers (can't stand Pioneer equipment). Plus I dont know what gauge wire they use. It's a really easy setup, just takes time to do it.

With the top down, you wont ever hear the door speakers (if they are subs anyway). In a convertible the most sound is going to come from the rear if speakers are pointed at your head & not obstructed. The dash are going to get washed out if the windows are down from the wind.

Having printers is nice for something like this but I really got into it to make custom toolbox organizers. Now I dont have to hunt for a 10mm socket, screwdriver or anything really.

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