Need some advice - Oil drain plug damaged

[Chboro]

I installed a magnetic drain plug at my last oil change and torqued it correctly. Today I was going to change oil and I could not get the drain plug out. In fact my allen rounded out the hex portion trying to unscrew it.

At this point this particular drain plug is toast so I'm thinking I'll go at it tomorrow with some vice grips and see what I can do. Doesn't look like there's much to hold on to.

Has anyone dealt with this situation that can give me some ideas, or options?

Thanks in advance.

[rfuerst911sc]

Hit it with Kroil or PB blaster . Tap with a hammer a few times then try the vise grip . If that doesn't work try a sharp chisel on the edge of the plug . You want the chisel to dig into the plug but NOT the engine sump plate . Hitting it in counter clockwise direction should get it to turn . A little heat will help also . Good luck

[porschefan76]

Hi. The only thing I can possibly add to rfuerst911sc's suggestions is to try to use a cutting wheel on a dremel to CAREFULLY put a slot in the drain plug to aid in using the chisel as suggested. Best of luck!

[jdavis8361]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y65nItqVlAA&t=197s&ab_channel=Delboy%27sGarage

[Banana S]

See post #25 in this thread and go buy a #6 EZ out. MUCH safer than a hammer, chisel, or Dremel.

[Chboro]

Thanks for all the suggestions. Fortunately the first thing I tried happened to work. I jacked the car up again and sprayed some PB on it and let it sit for awhile. I happened to have a new pair of vise grips with some good teeth on them. Clamped it on the edge as best I could and it finally broke loose. I couldn't believe how much strength it took.

Anyhow I got it off ok. Oil and filter changed! Installed the original drain plug.

Yesterday where I started to tackle this I was kind of tired from already changing out the spark plugs and tubes. So, I think a fresh start this morning helped.

Here's what the plug looks like.

[porschefan76]

Nice work! Glad you're all fixed up!

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by jdavis8361

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y65nItqVlAA&t=197s&ab_channel=Delboy%27sGarage

That is a BRILLIANT tip!

[NewArt]

I dealt with this problem in my video:
https://youtu.be/VWQupTYKGoQ

[ike84]

Originally Posted by Chboro

Thanks for all the suggestions. Fortunately the first thing I tried happened to work. I jacked the car up again and sprayed some PB on it and let it sit for awhile. I happened to have a new pair of vise grips with some good teeth on them. Clamped it on the edge as best I could and it finally broke loose. I couldn't believe how much strength it took.



Anyhow I got it off ok. Oil and filter changed! Installed the original drain plug.



Yesterday where I started to tackle this I was kind of tired from already changing out the spark plugs and tubes. So, I think a fresh start this morning helped.



Here's what the plug looks like.

What material is that? Aluminum? I can't imagine you would have been able to do that to a steel plug. Aluminum on the other hand is not a material that I would consider using this application.

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[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by ike84

What material is that? Aluminum? I can't imagine you would have been able to do that to a steel plug. Aluminum on the other hand is not a material that I would consider using this application.

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Very bad idea. Every customer that tried using steel plugs instead of aluminum eventually ended up replacing their sump cover due to the damage the steel plugs caused. Use aluminum, the plugs are cheaper and easier to replace than the sump covers.............

[ike84]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Very bad idea. Every customer that tried using steel plugs instead of aluminum eventually ended up replacing their sump cover due to the damage the steel plugs caused. Use aluminum, the plugs are cheaper and easier to replace than the sump covers.............

Interesting, why is that? Over torquing?

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[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by ike84

Interesting, why is that? Over torquing?

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Nope, combination of dissimilar metal corrosion and very sharp and hard steel threads tearing up the aluminum. Porsche actually makes a stainless steel version the plug, but never used it in this application because of the problems it caused.

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Nope, combination of dissimilar metal corrosion and very sharp and hard steel threads tearing up the aluminum. Porsche actually makes a stainless steel version the plug, but never used it in this application because of the problems it caused.

JFP, which part (vendor and number) would you recommend. I had mashed up my original plug and have had the steel plug in use since (about two oil changes). I will be taking your advice (I've an oil change coming up) and will purchase the part you recommend.

Thank you, Sir.

[JFP in PA]

While I am sure there a probably several firms selling good replacements, we always used the LN magnetic plugs; they worked well, and we never had any issues with them. That said, others have encountered problems with them, which seemed to be related to over tightening them. But from my experience, if used according to how LN tells you to, they do just fine.

If you want to stay with a non magnetic plug, the factory part is fine as well.

[Ciao]

I use a torque wrench and the factory drain plug began to strip a bit. Unless my torque wrench is off, factory oil drain plugs last so long.

[Frodo]

Originally Posted by Chboro

I installed a magnetic drain plug at my last oil change and torqued it correctly. Today I was going to change oil and I could not get the drain plug out. In fact my allen rounded out the hex portion trying to unscrew it.

Do you remember what the torque value was that you used? I've got the LN magnetic plug as well—have had it for many years, and until I read this thread...

Leaking LN Magnetic Drain Plug!

...I had no idea they were supposed to be torqued differently than the OEM plug. In fact, I had no idea most people even used torque wrenches when replacing oil drain plugs of either variety. I've had my '01 since 2006, have done every oil change except one, and had NEVER used a torque wrench. I used the same process I used for years with all my cars: I'd crank them until they 'felt about right.' Never had a problem. (Well, once. One time I had a slight drip on the Boxster. Maybe a few drops/day, following an oil change. Got back underneath, applied a couple ft-lb more torque (by feel) and the problem went away.)

But, after reading that thread I got a little paranoid about it and started using the torque wrench. Why not, I figured? It's about as easy to access as could be possible, so I had no reason not to start.

But I just wondered whether you cranked to LN specs or to OEM specs?

[JFP in PA]

Torque specs exist for a good reason; just about every fastener in a Porsche has a spec that should be followed. You would be surprised how many people use an impact gun to remove and replace drain plugs, and then wonder why they get buggered up.

[Frodo]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Torque specs exist for a good reason; just about every fastener in a Porsche has a spec that should be followed. You would be surprised how many people use an impact gun to remove and replace drain plugs, and then wonder why they get buggered up.

Yeah, that's just crazy. I don't know if this is right or not, but I can't imagine that it would ever be smart to use an impact on a allen wrench fitting.