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Old 02-02-2021, 03:30 PM   #1
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Condensation in the trunk???

After a long 55 degree drive today with a few traffic jams (car stayed at normal operating temperature) while emptying the truck when I got back noticed condensation on inner lid above oil/coolant area. After further inspection found more condensation under the plastic cover... Dried everything up just wondering how to prevent this going forward.

New coolant cap needed or something more drastic?

Not wet anywhere on carpet and certainly not a show stopper or should I say “go stopper” but if a quick DIY fix will do.

Thanks Forum!

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Last edited by Farmlifer; 02-02-2021 at 04:22 PM. Reason: Clarification
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Old 02-02-2021, 04:32 PM   #2
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Looks like the burp valve is faulty.
I see corrosion on all the bolts so it is most certainly faulty.
I believe they can be replaced-rebuilt.
I would do a pressure test on the system to make sure the tank is not also leaking.
They are a known problem. They develop hair line cracks that tend to only leak when under pressure.
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Old 02-02-2021, 04:38 PM   #3
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I'd start with the coolant cap. This happened in mine, although less dramatic. $20 new cap on amazon fixed it right up. If that doesn't fix it then yes, I'd look more closely at the burp valve (although I will say that after my last coolant change I drove for a week with that valve intentionally open and it never leaked a bit of coolant back into the trunk)

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Old 02-02-2021, 05:30 PM   #4
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Thank you...

Went on Pelican and ordered a new “04” blue cap and the bleeder valve not too painful price wise and seems like a easy DIY per the videos posted.
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Old 02-03-2021, 08:00 AM   #5
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FYI, be careful not to over-tighten the screws for the burp valve. They are easily stripped. You can also order the valve's two O-rings to rebuild your existing valve.
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Old 02-03-2021, 09:19 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rexcramer View Post
FYI, be careful not to over-tighten the screws for the burp valve. They are easily stripped. You can also order the valve's two O-rings to rebuild your existing valve.
What do you think is appropriate good fingers around extension tight or good screwdriver handle twist? I can’t find any DIY videos or info on replacement and torque really...
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Old 02-04-2021, 08:07 AM   #7
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Nut driver, hand tight. Just be aware that you are going into plastic. I think I was using a 1/4" ratchet initially. I felt the first one starting to pull when I was reassembling. I was just replacing the O-rings and found it helpful to tighten the screws in a crisscross pattern (think wheel lug nuts) to keep them in place.
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Old 02-04-2021, 12:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rexcramer View Post
Nut driver, hand tight. Just be aware that you are going into plastic. I think I was using a 1/4" ratchet initially. I felt the first one starting to pull when I was reassembling. I was just replacing the O-rings and found it helpful to tighten the screws in a crisscross pattern (think wheel lug nuts) to keep them in place.
Thank you - will be very careful, check for leaks, then tighten further if needed

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