Convertible top relay

[mtb50]

Originally Posted by particlewave

Someone sent you on a wild goose chase.

I’ve been watching your posts. If you want to fix your window problem, start at the immobilizer. Best of luck.

Ok so what do I need to check on the immobillizer? Here is were I'm at . There are 3 pins in the middle of the switch. A BRN/GRN/BLK wire coming from the top relay should be hot and it's not. I've gone to the middle pin with a hot wire and the windows go up and down. The top relay does power the top but not the windows I'd appreciate any help

[Zzorro]

Originally Posted by mtb50

Ok so what do I need to check on the immobillizer? Here is were I'm at . There are 3 pins in the middle of the switch. A BRN/GRN/BLK wire coming from the top relay should be hot and it's not. I've gone to the middle pin with a hot wire and the windows go up and down. The top relay does power the top but not the windows I'd appreciate any help

CLU = Central locking unit = Immobilizer. To troubleshoot the convertable top electronics have a look at that YouTube video I sent. That diagnostic sheet he references is a full diagnosis.

[78F350]

That same connection that goes to the top relay from the switch also connects to the CLU connector 1, pin 18. You can check it for continuity and/or +12v. Once you have done that advance to the next question.

The top relay diagram:


Where it goes on the top relay plug:


To the CLU...


what it look like on the CLU plug:

[mtb50]

Originally Posted by 78F350

That same connection that goes to the top relay from the switch also connects to the CLU connector 1, pin 18. You can check it for continuity and/or +12v. Once you have done that advance to the next question.

The top relay diagram:


Where it goes on the top relay plug:


To the CLU...


what it look like on the CLU plug:

I had the seat out today and the fuse is ok. tomorrow I'll do what you showed here and get back to you. Thanks

[78F350]

Originally Posted by mtb50

I had the seat out today and the fuse is ok. tomorrow I'll do what you showed here and get back to you. Thanks

NOTE: If you turn the key to the on position with the seat wire harness disconnected, it will cause the airbag caution light to come on and it will need to be reset with a capable diagnostic tool/scanner.

[mtb50]

Originally Posted by mtb50

I had the seat out today and the fuse is ok. tomorrow I'll do what you showed here and get back to you. Thanks

As you have pointed to me the relay plug 11 is not hot no 12v. Only one I found hot was 23 witch I thank would explain the power top to work. I'll check the clu 18 when i have more time. Thanks for your time.

[78F350]

Originally Posted by mtb50

... I'll check the clu 18 when i have more time. Thanks for your time.

As pictured with the blue connector, you can check continuity, but the +12v will be on the module pin, not the connector.

I would test continuity from the window switch to the CLU connector (18).
If that is good and the car runs (if it runs the CLU is powered and at least partially functioning), then the problem is internal in the CLU.

Often the CLUs are damaged by water intrusion. It may be visible, or it may not be. Mild corrosion can often be cleaned to restore function. You can find lots of past discussion of the issues. Most of those posts will call it the immobilizer rather than CLU.

Here's an example of how I'd search: https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=site%3A986forum.com+immobilizer+wet&ia=web

[mtb50]

Originally Posted by 78F350

As pictured with the blue connector, you can check continuity, but the +12v will be on the module pin, not the connector.

I would test continuity from the window switch to the CLU connector (18).
If that is good and the car runs (if it runs the CLU is powered and at least partially functioning), then the problem is internal in the CLU.

Often the CLUs are damaged by water intrusion. It may be visible, or it may not be. Mild corrosion can often be cleaned to restore function. You can find lots of past discussion of the issues. Most of those posts will call it the immobilizer rather than CLU.

Here's an example of how I'd search: https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=site%3A986forum.com+immobilizer+wet&ia=web

I'll test continuity tomorrow. I'm not clear on what module pin will be 12v

[mtb50]

Originally Posted by 78F350

As pictured with the blue connector, you can check continuity, but the +12v will be on the module pin, not the connector.

I would test continuity from the window switch to the CLU connector (18).
If that is good and the car runs (if it runs the CLU is powered and at least partially functioning), then the problem is internal in the CLU.

Often the CLUs are damaged by water intrusion. It may be visible, or it may not be. Mild corrosion can often be cleaned to restore function. You can find lots of past discussion of the issues. Most of those posts will call it the immobilizer rather than CLU.

Here's an example of how I'd search: https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=site%3A986forum.com+immobilizer+wet&ia=web

The continuity is good from window switch to CLU connector 18. Car starts and runs OK. I'm not showing 12 v at pin 11 on relay.

[mtb50]

Originally Posted by Zzorro

CLU = Central locking unit = Immobilizer. To troubleshoot the convertable top electronics have a look at that YouTube video I sent. That diagnostic sheet he references is a full diagnosis.

That was a good video only problem is that my 2000 top relay is different than the 1998 that he showed but I appreciate it.