Convertible top relay

[mtb50]

Is there a way of testing a convertible top relay? I really don't want to be out the money for one if mine is good. Thanks

[dghii]

Maybe find another Box owner in your area and do a quick swap. Remember that earlier cars 97-99) had a different relay than newer 986's.

[mtb50]

Originally Posted by dghii

Maybe find another Box owner in your area and do a quick swap. Remember that earlier cars 97-99) had a different relay than newer 986's.

I failed to mention I have a 2000 model. I'm new here and don't know of anyone that has one. Thanks for the info

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by mtb50

I failed to mention I have a 2000 model. I'm new here and don't know of anyone that has one. Thanks for the info

What makes you think it may be faulty?

[mtb50]

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter

What makes you think it may be faulty?

First off window fuses are good. There's no hot pin at the window switch plug and wiring diagram shows hot wire going through fuse then to relay. Windows do nothing.

[blue62]

Originally Posted by mtb50

Is there a way of testing a convertible top relay? I really don't want to be out the money for one if mine is good. Thanks

A typical automotive relay costs around $8.00 to $12.00
Not what I would call expensive in today's world.
If your still concerned about cost. look at all your relays in the car.
See if you can find one that is the same as the convertible top relay.
switch places with them and see if the other relay makes the top work.
If you cannot find another relay of the same type on the car, then Google
Testing automotive relays. You will find many many articles on testing relays.

[mtb50]

Originally Posted by blue62

A typical automotive relay costs around $8.00 to $12.00
Not what I would call expensive in today's world.
If your still concerned about cost. look at all your relays in the car.
See if you can find one that is the same as the convertible top relay.
switch places with them and see if the other relay makes the top work.
If you cannot find another relay of the same type on the car, then Google
Testing automotive relays. You will find many many articles on testing relays.

OK thanks for the advice.

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by blue62

A typical automotive relay costs around $8.00 to $12.00
Not what I would call expensive in today's world.

It`s a double relay, I don`t think you can find a generic automotive relay that will be the same. A typical issue is related to the parking brake warning light switch, if that does not work, it will not tell the relay that the parking brake is on, and the top won`t work. Is the parking brake warning light on on the dashboard when you operate the parking brake?

[mtb50]

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter

It`s a double relay, I don`t think you can find a generic automotive relay that will be the same. A typical issue is related to the parking brake warning light switch, if that does not work, it will not tell the relay that the parking brake is on, and the top won`t work. Is the parking brake warning light on on the dashboard when you operate the parking brake?

Parking brake switch is ok because the top will go and down. This is good to mention this for those out there having problems with the top. Thanks

[paulofto]

The top relay is indeed not a typical relay. There is quite a complex circuit board in there that does a lot of figuring to operate the top based on a bunch of inputs. A new replacement will set you back a couple of hundred bucks but I obtained a used one from ‘itsnotanova’ to do the hack that allows you to operate while moving and not engaging the parking brake. He charged me $35.00 which was a bargain as far as I’m concerned. I got it because I wanted to keep my original relay unmodified so I could put it back should I want to return the car to stock.

PS I see you are in Texas. So is ‘itsnotanova’ Reach out to him and see if he has any more relays from the multitude of Boxster he has dismantled. I would let you try my spare but I’m about 1,400 miles and another country away from you.

[blue62]

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter

It`s a double relay, I don`t think you can find a generic automotive relay that will be the same. A typical issue is related to the parking brake warning light switch, if that does not work, it will not tell the relay that the parking brake is on, and the top won`t work. Is the parking brake warning light on on the dashboard when you operate the parking brake?

Thanks for schooling me on the relay.
Guess I should have looked one up first.
They sure want stupid money for that convertible top relay.
I wonder if that relay is common to other makes for a cheaper price??

[paulofto]

Originally Posted by blue62

I wonder if that relay is common to other makes for a cheaper price??

It seems unlikely. It has a part number starting with 986 which means it isn’t even shared with the 996 and I can’t think of any other car that has the same kind of top set up that the Boxster has. Then again, I don’t know all the other soft tops that are out there.

[blue62]

Originally Posted by paulofto

It seems unlikely. It has a part number starting with 986 which means it isn’t even shared with the 996 and I can’t think of any other car that has the same kind of top set up that the Boxster has. Then again, I don’t know all the other soft tops that are out there.

A friend of mine has a Audi Quattro some parts like a few micro switches some door lock part and other odds and ends are also common to my 986. I think there are also a few things on my 986 that are also common to VW. Seems that a switch or relay common to just one make and model would not be a very cost effective way to build a car.
But stranger things happen in this world

[Zzorro]

I bought one from a member on here a while back to troubleshoot some convertable top issues I was having. Turns out my relay was working fine. So now I have a spare I guess.

My convertable top issues are related to a damaged (got wet) CLU which I have yet to completely fix. But the CLU gives permissive to the various functions in the car. Presumably some of those are for the top as well.

Aaron did an excellent video on this issue. His videos are great.

https://youtu.be/xntJKWZpFac

On this video he shows a 3 page diagnosis page. I just screen clipped and printed it and followed that to confirm my issues are CLU related.

Good luck!

[mtb50]

Originally Posted by paulofto

The top relay is indeed not a typical relay. There is quite a complex circuit board in there that does a lot of figuring to operate the top based on a bunch of inputs. A new replacement will set you back a couple of hundred bucks but I obtained a used one from ‘itsnotanova’ to do the hack that allows you to operate while moving and not engaging the parking brake. He charged me $35.00 which was a bargain as far as I’m concerned. I got it because I wanted to keep my original relay unmodified so I could put it back should I want to return the car to stock.

PS I see you are in Texas. So is ‘itsnotanova’ Reach out to him and see if he has any more relays from the multitude of Boxster he has dismantled. I would let you try my spare but I’m about 1,400 miles and another country away from you.

I really appreciate the offer but I'll come up with one some way.

[mtb50]

Originally Posted by Zzorro

I bought one from a member on here a while back to troubleshoot some convertable top issues I was having. Turns out my relay was working fine. So now I have a spare I guess.

My convertable top issues are related to a damaged (got wet) CLU which I have yet to completely fix. But the CLU gives permissive to the various functions in the car. Presumably some of those are for the top as well.

Aaron did an excellent video on this issue. His videos are great.

https://youtu.be/xntJKWZpFac

On this video he shows a 3 page diagnosis page. I just screen clipped and printed it and followed that to confirm my issues are CLU related.

Good luck!

I would offer to buy your spare but I need one from 2000 to 2004

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by mtb50

First off window fuses are good. There's no hot pin at the window switch plug and wiring diagram shows hot wire going through fuse then to relay. Windows do nothing.

Someone sent you on a wild goose chase.

I’ve been watching your posts. If you want to fix your window problem, start at the immobilizer. Best of luck.

[mtb50]

Originally Posted by particlewave

Someone sent you on a wild goose chase.

I’ve been watching your posts. If you want to fix your window problem, start at the immobilizer. Best of luck.

Ok so what do I need to check on the immobillizer? Here is were I'm at . There are 3 pins in the middle of the switch. A BRN/GRN/BLK wire coming from the top relay should be hot and it's not. I've gone to the middle pin with a hot wire and the windows go up and down. The top relay does power the top but not the windows I'd appreciate any help

[Zzorro]

Originally Posted by mtb50

Ok so what do I need to check on the immobillizer? Here is were I'm at . There are 3 pins in the middle of the switch. A BRN/GRN/BLK wire coming from the top relay should be hot and it's not. I've gone to the middle pin with a hot wire and the windows go up and down. The top relay does power the top but not the windows I'd appreciate any help

CLU = Central locking unit = Immobilizer. To troubleshoot the convertable top electronics have a look at that YouTube video I sent. That diagnostic sheet he references is a full diagnosis.

[78F350]

That same connection that goes to the top relay from the switch also connects to the CLU connector 1, pin 18. You can check it for continuity and/or +12v. Once you have done that advance to the next question.

The top relay diagram:


Where it goes on the top relay plug:


To the CLU...


what it look like on the CLU plug: