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Old 08-23-2020, 04:19 PM   #1
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Codes P0410 & P1411 related to bad AOS?

My 99 Boxter was delivered to me three days ago. Occasionally on start up a billow of smoke would come out of tail pipes. I thought bad AOS. Today check engine light came on, dammit. Went to Autozone the following codes came up: P0410 and P1411. Can these two codes be triggered by faulty / bad AOS / oil separator, think this is the same part, correct? Faulty gas cap? While car was idling, I removed oil cap and it was somewhat challenging to get off, felt quite a bit of vacuum. What do you guys think. Don't want to randomly put in new parts. Smoke test most efficient way to determine leak or issues? Very bummed out. Ger.


Last edited by mungodrums; 08-23-2020 at 04:37 PM.
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Old 08-23-2020, 05:02 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mungodrums View Post
My 99 Boxter was delivered to me three days ago. Occasionally on start up a billow of smoke would come out of tail pipes. I thought bad AOS. Today check engine light came on, dammit. Went to Autozone the following codes came up: P0410 and P1411. Can these two codes be triggered by faulty / bad AOS / oil separator, think this is the same part, correct? Faulty gas cap? While car was idling, I removed oil cap and it was somewhat challenging to get off, felt quite a bit of vacuum. What do you guys think. Don't want to randomly put in new parts. Smoke test most efficient way to determine leak or issues? Very bummed out. Ger.
P0410=Secondary air injection system cyl. 1-3 signal implausible/implausible operating range/malfunction.
P1411= same thing on cyl. 4-6
I would start by checking to see if there is a related fuse that is blown.
Then find a wiring diagram to the SAI and check the wiring
Then test the SAI pump.

The AOS and other issues you mentioned are unrelated to the current codes.

How many miles on the car?
Has any recent work been done on it?

Last edited by blue62; 08-23-2020 at 05:04 PM.
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Old 08-23-2020, 08:26 PM   #3
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Those two codes are often caused by a vacuum leak - broken or disconnected hose for the secondary air injection system (SAI). There are plenty of threads here on the forum about the vacuum hoses.

The AOS could still be a problem, but would not likely be related to those codes as Blue said.

Generally the SAI system is only emissions related and helps to give a more complete combustion of fuel when your car is first started. If the failure is related to a vacuum leak that can cause your car to run poorly and should be fixed.
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Old 08-24-2020, 06:42 AM   #4
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To further my first reply:
When talking about the SAI= think smog pump.

An air pump kicks on for a short period of time when you first start the car.
Some people say they an hear it kick on and turn off.

I always go with the simplest things first and work my way up the diagnostic tree.
So first find out if the pump is working or not.
If it isn't then look to fuses and relays first.
wiring issue second.
bad pump third.

If the pump is working then look for vacuum leaks in the SAI related system first.
Then issues with the related electric and vacuum operated components.

Do a search on SAI related issues here on the forum there is lots of information.
There are pictures and diagrams of the system layout.
Get familiar with the system, its purpose, and how it functions.
Understanding the system will help with correcting issues with it.
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Old 11-25-2020, 09:04 AM   #5
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Fixing SAI related issues .
The big problem is access to the system .It is buried under the Intake manifolds.
The other problem is the "Not Ready" and Drive Cycle issue that for unknown reasons is particularly difficult on '01 and'02 engines.
imho the best strategy is to combine the SAI work with other 'while you are in there' work like AOS replacement. And replace everything with upgraded parts that are cheaper than OEM.! Having to go back later to replace a cheap cracked/leaking plastic rubber part is bad. I have several old Posts on this in Search
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Old 11-26-2020, 08:27 AM   #6
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Unfortunately, it's almost certain that the prior owner knew about the secondary air injection system problems and simply reset the codes before they handed the boxster off to you. I would probably call them and read them the riot act if it were me. They should be paying to fix this not sticking you with it.

After resetting the codes, it can take several starts before the codes come back - so if they cleared the codes just before they handed the car off to you, you are seeing the expected behavior.

The good news is that the most common causes of these codes are very well known. well I concur with the other posters that you should follow the testing procedures that are well documented in this forum so you aren't just replacing parts willy-nilly, the most common things that happen are one or more of the plastic vacuum lines fail, or the plastic vacuum accumulator reservoir fails and leaks.

It is not a big deal to replace the vacuum lines and the accumulator reservoir. Strongly suggest you replace the old plastic vacuum tubing and plastic fittings with silicone vacuum hose with brass fittings and that will permanently solve the problem. The accumulator reservoir is also made of plastic and gets brittle over time and leaks, and it can be very hard to find the leak. I feel like since it's only $20 it's better to just replace it with a new one. A vacuum tester, which costs about $25 on Amazon, is the only unusual tool required for this job. And I would definitely get one so you can make sure that the system is holding vacuum before you put everything back together.

If you remove the air oil separator you will have more room to access the secondary air components without removing the passenger side intake manifold. You may find you also have to remove the alternator, depends how limber you are.

I tested the air pump to make sure it was blowing strongly, and then I chose to replace all of the rest of the components in the system as the total price was less than $200 for everything. About 10 ft of silicone vacuum hose, a few brass fittings, some clamps, a new accumulator, and a few new valves is all that is involved.

So my recommendation would be to first check that your air pump is working, and if it is then remove your air oil separator, then refresh the parts in your secondary air system, at a minimum replacing the vacuum hose and connectors, the vacuum check valve, and the vacuum accumulator, and then testing the rest of the valves to make sure they work properly before you put everything back together and then as a final step install a new air oil separator.

Oh and don't be a dummy like me and put the new vacuum check valve in backwards. That was a real head scratcher since I was testing the vacuum from the output side of the check valve.

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