Ok will do.......I am pretty sure both windows do go down when I go to lower the top....so I assumed that feature was working for when I put the top back up. I will read up and figure it out....thanks

You mentioned in one of your first few posts that your battery only held 12.3 volts after a 3 hour drive the day before testing.
your thought was that you may have a parasitic draw.

12.3 volts is a 30% charge.
If after driving for three hours you have less then 12.5 volts or higher something is wrong.

A battery that is not charging or holding proper charge can cause all kinds of strange little electrical problems.

May I suggest you make certain the battery is charging and holding sufficient charge before looking to other electrical problems.

Starting with the simplest most basic. (main power source=battery) Then working step by step to the more complex helps reduce the chasing of ones own tail.

The window is supposed to drop just enough to fit under the lip of the top when you open the door. It drops considerably more when you operate the top. Search the forum for a solution. Does the passenger side door window function properly?

need to replace regulator, 95%.
The window drops slightly when you open door, shuts when closed. The regulator wears and doesn't suck the window down consistently. you can.confirm by pressing down on window when door open and the window is sitting too high for frame, if it moves a little, regulator.

Looks like my new toy has all of the expected common gizmo issues. Typical for a used car, especially with 158k on the dial. I will spend the morning looking for regulator write ups and vids.....

great forum....

Thanks!!!

You may just need to re-calibrate the window. The procedure is in your owners manual.

X-1 Good catch Anker;)
Basic simplest things first:D
If the battery was disconnected the computer has to relearn the window position.

Man o man I would love my window issue to be a simple re calibrate or relearn from battery being disconnected. I confirmed today that both driver and pass door windows hit the top when closing. I have not removed the battery but that doesnt mean the previous owner didnt. If you know exactly where this calibration process is in the manual please help guide me there. You guys have given me so much home work I cant think straight. I have skimmed the million page manual and the million page parts list. Neither were what I would call user friendly.....or at least not easy to navigate. Guys please throw me a freakin bone........I have hours of computer time and three trips to an auto parts store just trying to find the tiny little side marker bulb that is the tail lights. The previous owner has messed everything up and I am not sure what he has in the socket is correct. Damn I sound pitiful huh.......its just frustrating spending that much time on a dumb bulb. I can include info that I have found....maybe one of them is correct. I am looking for what is called a rear side marker bulb and it is located in the tail light assembly. Tonight I bought #2821 for the third brake light...I am hoping that one is correct. It is possible that the 2825 is the bulb that I am looking for....and in the parts manual it looks like it could be the 996 631 032 90 bulb 5w .......

Trying to stay focused on the prize...do one thing at a time and move to the next.....so far have found I need to do the following

1. Electrical testing.....starting at battery...grounds...etc. Parasitic drain testing....alternator....charging system. Need to get to the bottom of battery being at 12.3 volts

2. Repair replace starter as bendix is sticking

3. Window re calibrate or regulator repair

4. 3rd brake light is loose and needs a bulb replaced

5. Replace rear side marker light if I can ever find one

6. replace shift knob and boot

7. refurb rear plastic window....supplies in the mail

8. drivers visor vanity light cover is broken off...repair

9. figure out what is missing from my tool kit

10. try to keep this list from getting longer

How old is the battery?

I would disconnect it and charge it over night.
Then put it back in the car.
turn on the lights for 1 full minute.
turn the lights off.
then check battery voltage across the posts not the cable connectors.
you should have 12.6 or higher.

to recalibrate the windows.
you have already disconnected and reconnected the battery so you have cleared the computer of any previous settings.
with the doors closed and the top up.
press window button and put window all the way down.
Pause briefly
Press window button and put window all the way up
continue to hold button in up position for 10 seconds after window is fully up.
Same for both windows.

To calibrate your Drive by wire gas pedal:
After removing and replacing battery.
Turn key to on position for 1 full minute (I usually do it for a minute 15 seconds). do not start car. do not touch gas pedal.
Turn key off for at least 10 seconds. (I usually turn it off for at least 30 seconds)
Start car you should be good to go.
I have done it this way numerous times never had a problem.
Let us know how you go;)

Thanks for dummying it down for me..... ...sometimes I need some simple stuff to get me into the mix. Note I did hook a trickle charger up to the battery while still in the car and the battery did show as i recall 12.6. I was feeling pretty good until I checked it yesterday and again it was low....12.3. I havent had time to run your previous tests but tonight looks good to complete all of them. I will report back. I really want to get that battery cable chassis post cleaned up as well as battery terminals and such.

Question for u guys.......
my drivers side vanity mirror cover is broken off. The light is not on but is it possible that this mirror light spring is in the on position drawing current and I just dont realize it because the bulb is burnt out?

Not sure the age of the battery...it looks good and is an Interstate. Date codes dont look to be punched...will have to get my old man glasses out and look closer.

light bulb is the load, so no. Burnt bulb, no path for electrons.

here is an online resource for understanding direct current and it should help you understand this and more. You will need to understand if you are hoping to trouble shoot things on your car.

Low Voltage - Electrical 101


BTW, everybody has broken vanity mirror covers, its the first "mod." I am on my 3rd used 986 and they have all been broken off.

Thanks Tony. I guess I can remove the light bulb from my pass side door light that has a way of staying on longer then it should. But ultimately I will just fix the sticking door switch.....I can handle a door switch.

Man....u gave me yet another book for homework!!!! This Porsche is sending me back to school....I like Youtube University....thats more my speed.

CRAP! I forgot to ask.....u left me hangin. The first mod???? Well I have to do that....what is the first mod to do with my visors? And dont make me read a book to do the fix.

If you hooked a trickle charger to the battery and charged it to 12.6. and then it dropped to 12.3 without driving starting or putting other types of draw on the battery I would say your battery is shot. 12.3 Volts is only a 30% charge.

It’s a joke. I meant the visor cover breaks off, apparently for everyone that has these cars, hence the first mod.
There are aftermarket replacements out there, but I don’t need or want a mirror on the visor anyway, so I’m good.


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Blue and Tony.......thanks for stickin with me in my first weeks of trying to get a handle on this little monster.

The visor mod......funny I couldnt wait to log back on so I could get going on the mod that must be done by all Boxster owners.......so much so that its a no brainer.....all to find out that I have already finished.....mwa mwaaaaaaaa.....funny stuff.

Blue......Im jumpin in head first in about an hour....that batt is coming out and I will find the date code etc........will also clean up contacts and get the ole girl ready for round 2.

Purchased some more marker bulbs for the tail lights.....lets see if tail lights round 3 will be successful. Will also crack open the 3rd tail light tonight and replace bulbs.

I will outline a simple parasitic draw test for you. (At least the way I do it)
1.make sure everything is off.
key off
Radio off
dash lights off
door lights off
open frunk, remove frunk light fixture, remove light bulb. (so there is no current draw to frunk light).
remove positive battery cable from battery post.
with multi meter set to volts connect one probe to positive battery post.
connect the other probe to positive battery cable.
You should not see more then perhaps 1 tenth - 1 half volt draw
If you see more then that you have excess draw.;)

Incorrect. Voltage tells you absolutely nothing. ;)

You need to set it amps and measure the current drain. Report results.

Particlewave,
Thank you very much for correcting me.;)
Electrics is probably my weakest ability went it comes to automotive.
oh wait, maybe be it's driving:eek: