Noob here!!! 2001 Box....new to me...lots of questions
 

Hello all....I am a noob here on this forum yet very familiar with the forum world with my other interests.
I just purchased via ebay a 2001 Boxster with 158k on it. It was owned by a Porsche mechanic which gave me some confidence to buy it with high mileage. Many of the common issues have already been repaired or replaced. I watched many youtube vids before buying so i would know what to look for. I dont want to make this too long.....let me just take baby steps and get some help with my current issues.

1. where can I find a cheap shift knob and boot replacement? There is no shift pattern sticker on my knob and it just looks faded.
2. When I start my car....say 6 out of 10 times it will start with a loud squeal. Where should I start...how can I diagnose? Is it most likely the starter....a drive belt....alternator?
3. The battery did have a low charge when I got it......I am battling the lights and switches to figure out how they work and what they do. My pass side door light seems to come on or go off when ever it wants. Anyone else have that issue? The drivers side door light is burnt out will fix soon. The dash lights do stay on after I turn off the car unless I lock it. The key switch has been replaced. What is the purpose of the lock button on the dash?
4. Does anyone know where I can get the tail light marker light part number...meaning the tiny little bulb....I removed both sides and learned the set up......but need a part number that would work at an auto parts store. In addition to that rear light question....I appear to have 1 bulb per side that does not come on during any function.....I had my wife pull out the headlight switch and finally saw the mystery bulb come on but only on one tail light.....is this an extra by any chance?
5. Can anyone explain or show me a diagram of how the headlight switch works? Obviously I have figured out the basics.....but what does pulling out the knob do? And there is a light to the left of the switch that makes me really want to move the headlight switch further to the left but it stops prior.

wooops........I asked way too many questions on round 1.....sorry.....Just skim it and help if u can......thanks!!!!!

1) Check the for sale forums. Lots of cars being parted out and I'm sure you can find one for a good price.

2) Starter bendix is sticking. Common issue. Fix by cleaning and lubing the bendix.

3) Likely a bad door latch switch is making the light turn on and off. The cluster lights are supposed to stay on for a few minutes or until you lock the car. The switch on the dash is for locking from the inside.

4) Check the owners manual for bulb types: http://p914-6info.net/Boxster_Manuals/986%20owners%20manual.pdf

5) Again, in the owners manual. The one light is the rear fog light and there's only supposed to be one. The other side is a dummy bulb and not powered.

Box774, welcome.

PW got you squared-away in his reply. I'd say absolutely FIRST thing you need is an owner's manual.

What color is your interior? I have a grey interior I'm parting.

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Use the link and scroll down. You can download the 618 page PDF file for your car. This is the factory parts catalog.

https://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesandservices/classic/genuineparts/originalpartscatalogue/

Hello all.....thanks for the replies. I will do my homework and get the owners manual and check the parts pdf....very helpful. My interior is black...I dont think I am allowed to post pics yet but I will as soon as I can.
The starter bendix sp? is my top priority right now....kind of embarrassing starting the car with the loud screech....are there any vids or how to's on the starter repair? I have only owned the car for a week.....still havent found the engine yet :)
I have it mostly detailed......refurb'd the headlights.....replacing one small light bulb at a time.....
Door switch
Shift boot and knob
Bendix sp?
3rd brake light bulb

fun project....so far I am enjoying working on the car for a few hours then taking her for a spin in the evening with the top down. Even with 158k miles on her she still pulls pretty hard.

Check the battery. It should hold 12.5V with the ignition off, 11V when the starter is engaged and 14+V when idling just after start. If it fails these, replace the battery and recheck after driving it for a week. If it still fails the voltage regulator or alternator are bad.

Thanks ANKER......Im no mechanic but I am good at the basics.....I have a Multi meter....will try your tests. When I purchased the car it would barely start on a weak battery and the bendix would squeal every other start or so. The batt was at 12.3 volts engine off after a 3hour drive the day before. I put the batt on a trickle charger to achieve a full charge. After charged the bendix still squealed but the starter spun the motor much faster. I am trying to see if I have some kind of parasitic drain.....or like you said maybe its the alternator or voltage regulator.
Thanks

Do a voltage drop test on your starting system and your charging systems.
They will tell you if you have parasitic drain or any other problems with those systems.
If you don't know how to do those tests look them up on youtube, lots of info on what a voltage drop test is and how to do them on various systems.
All you need is your Multi meter to do the tests.
as an edit to my comments: a (Digital) Multi Meter.

[QUOTE=Box7774;598046]
The starter bendix sp? is my top priority right now....kind of embarrassing starting the car with the loud screech....are there any vids or how to's on the starter repair?

You might find this youtube video helpful for troubleshooting/lubricating your noisy starter. He has done many other DIY repairs that are interesting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJ9qnnf2kWU

Right, you want the Bentley manual for your car, just do a proper amazon search to find it, then look for a good price. The 101 projects book is also a good read. There are project videos for many of these projects posted as well.
Some of the big stuff might need a mechanic, find a good Indy shop but read the manual so you know what’s involved. I use a couple that let me source my parts and the appreciate my understanding the job.
Parts are expensive and the prices are all over the place. Source carefully so you don’t pay too much, but also avoid buying crap as well. Some aftermarket stuff is good, some ain’t.
Ask as many questions as you want, but search the forums first, many have been asked and answered through the years and you can add to the community by following prior advice and posting your experience in existing threads.
Oh, and welcome to the group.


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or you simply have a bad connection;)

Check your grounds. I had some weird stuff come up on window actions and the top. Had a corroded connection back by the starter that fixed it all.
Search for Particlewave posts on this. It will help you see where they are and how important.


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Further, my advice on the starter? Replace it. You can take it apart and lube it up, but why? It’s a simple motor and bendix, 150 dollar part and it’s a swap.
Pay attention that getting to the bolts involves going behind the seats. Pull the passenger seat out and buy some room. Extensions on your sockets and have at it, 2 hours. Save the old and rebuild it at leisure, sell on eBay
BOOM!


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Thanks for the replies. The vid link for the starter motor bendix is in fact my issue...thanks for posting that....it is the exact same sound. The job looks like a pain but the Porsche wont be needed for daily driving so I could take my time. I downloaded the manual from the provided link and started absorbing.........I have a lot to learn but thanks for providing the links and suggestions.

Thanks Tony........yep thats what I was thinking. If i am going to remove and reinstall I might as well reinstall a new one. I hadn't researched the price of a new one or a rebuilt one but by watching the vid and seeing the starter it looks very basic. If u have a link to a good one to buy please provide.

In regards to my battery or electrical snafoo's a bad connection is very possible. This so called garage kept car has been outdoors top down a lot. I have been vacuuming out leaves and tree debris from the seats and every crack and crevice.

My question for you guys is this........is this car computer sensitive to battery removal? In other words will the computer have to re learn when a new battery is installed or does the Boxster given it vintage handle battery replacement just fine? I do own one of those power supply devices that plugs into the info port of the car to keep it powered up but would rather not use it if I dont have to.

The reason I ask is that the battery connections are both weathered by the salt air of Salisbury Maryland where I bought the car.....especially the negative connection. Not the connection at the battery....its a short wire that mounts to a nearby post...its at that post where I see the weathered look that I want to thoroughly clean.

If the car is a 2001 it has E-gas (throttle by wire) there is a procedure you must go through so the computer can relearn the throttle position anytime you disconnect and then reconnect the battery. (it is in the Bentley book).

The reason I said to do a "voltage drop test" on your starting and charging systems rather then just taking voltage readings is:

Voltage readings just tell you voltage readings.

A voltage drop test not only tells you if you have a problem, or not.
It also gives you an effective way to identify and locate it.

For example when done properly!! A voltage drop test will tell you weather or not the weathered negative connection you speak of is creating enough resistance to create a voltage drop.

Also record the serial of the radio and check your papers for reset code. After disconnecting battery the stereo locks out.
If not, search the forum for the thread on this and ask, there are a few that have a way to provide the code with serial, better then paying a website 20 bucks.


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I was going to start a new thread for this question but i will ask it here first. So here in Va its a gorgeous night so I couldn't help myself and took the new to me 986 for a zip around. Wow that little car pulls pretty hard and sounds great! That was the first time that I have tacked her up and she did not disappoint. The top goes up and down with no issues but I am noticing that after I put the top back up and exit the drivers door.....when I shut the drivers door the window hits the outside of the top frame....am I doing something wrong? I can manipulate it a bit and get it to shut within the frame and seal correctly but it would be better to see the window go down 2" when I get out of the car and shut the door.....then go up after I have shut the door....if that makes any sense.

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checking to see if I can load pics

Very common issue. The window should drop slightly. Do a search on the forum.

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Ok will do.......I am pretty sure both windows do go down when I go to lower the top....so I assumed that feature was working for when I put the top back up. I will read up and figure it out....thanks

You mentioned in one of your first few posts that your battery only held 12.3 volts after a 3 hour drive the day before testing.
your thought was that you may have a parasitic draw.

12.3 volts is a 30% charge.
If after driving for three hours you have less then 12.5 volts or higher something is wrong.

A battery that is not charging or holding proper charge can cause all kinds of strange little electrical problems.

May I suggest you make certain the battery is charging and holding sufficient charge before looking to other electrical problems.

Starting with the simplest most basic. (main power source=battery) Then working step by step to the more complex helps reduce the chasing of ones own tail.

The window is supposed to drop just enough to fit under the lip of the top when you open the door. It drops considerably more when you operate the top. Search the forum for a solution. Does the passenger side door window function properly?

need to replace regulator, 95%.
The window drops slightly when you open door, shuts when closed. The regulator wears and doesn't suck the window down consistently. you can.confirm by pressing down on window when door open and the window is sitting too high for frame, if it moves a little, regulator.

Looks like my new toy has all of the expected common gizmo issues. Typical for a used car, especially with 158k on the dial. I will spend the morning looking for regulator write ups and vids.....

great forum....

Thanks!!!

You may just need to re-calibrate the window. The procedure is in your owners manual.

X-1 Good catch Anker;)
Basic simplest things first:D
If the battery was disconnected the computer has to relearn the window position.

Man o man I would love my window issue to be a simple re calibrate or relearn from battery being disconnected. I confirmed today that both driver and pass door windows hit the top when closing. I have not removed the battery but that doesnt mean the previous owner didnt. If you know exactly where this calibration process is in the manual please help guide me there. You guys have given me so much home work I cant think straight. I have skimmed the million page manual and the million page parts list. Neither were what I would call user friendly.....or at least not easy to navigate. Guys please throw me a freakin bone........I have hours of computer time and three trips to an auto parts store just trying to find the tiny little side marker bulb that is the tail lights. The previous owner has messed everything up and I am not sure what he has in the socket is correct. Damn I sound pitiful huh.......its just frustrating spending that much time on a dumb bulb. I can include info that I have found....maybe one of them is correct. I am looking for what is called a rear side marker bulb and it is located in the tail light assembly. Tonight I bought #2821 for the third brake light...I am hoping that one is correct. It is possible that the 2825 is the bulb that I am looking for....and in the parts manual it looks like it could be the 996 631 032 90 bulb 5w .......

Trying to stay focused on the prize...do one thing at a time and move to the next.....so far have found I need to do the following

1. Electrical testing.....starting at battery...grounds...etc. Parasitic drain testing....alternator....charging system. Need to get to the bottom of battery being at 12.3 volts

2. Repair replace starter as bendix is sticking

3. Window re calibrate or regulator repair

4. 3rd brake light is loose and needs a bulb replaced

5. Replace rear side marker light if I can ever find one

6. replace shift knob and boot

7. refurb rear plastic window....supplies in the mail

8. drivers visor vanity light cover is broken off...repair

9. figure out what is missing from my tool kit

10. try to keep this list from getting longer

How old is the battery?

I would disconnect it and charge it over night.
Then put it back in the car.
turn on the lights for 1 full minute.
turn the lights off.
then check battery voltage across the posts not the cable connectors.
you should have 12.6 or higher.

to recalibrate the windows.
you have already disconnected and reconnected the battery so you have cleared the computer of any previous settings.
with the doors closed and the top up.
press window button and put window all the way down.
Pause briefly
Press window button and put window all the way up
continue to hold button in up position for 10 seconds after window is fully up.
Same for both windows.

To calibrate your Drive by wire gas pedal:
After removing and replacing battery.
Turn key to on position for 1 full minute (I usually do it for a minute 15 seconds). do not start car. do not touch gas pedal.
Turn key off for at least 10 seconds. (I usually turn it off for at least 30 seconds)
Start car you should be good to go.
I have done it this way numerous times never had a problem.
Let us know how you go;)

Thanks for dummying it down for me..... ...sometimes I need some simple stuff to get me into the mix. Note I did hook a trickle charger up to the battery while still in the car and the battery did show as i recall 12.6. I was feeling pretty good until I checked it yesterday and again it was low....12.3. I havent had time to run your previous tests but tonight looks good to complete all of them. I will report back. I really want to get that battery cable chassis post cleaned up as well as battery terminals and such.

Question for u guys.......
my drivers side vanity mirror cover is broken off. The light is not on but is it possible that this mirror light spring is in the on position drawing current and I just dont realize it because the bulb is burnt out?

Not sure the age of the battery...it looks good and is an Interstate. Date codes dont look to be punched...will have to get my old man glasses out and look closer.

light bulb is the load, so no. Burnt bulb, no path for electrons.

here is an online resource for understanding direct current and it should help you understand this and more. You will need to understand if you are hoping to trouble shoot things on your car.

Low Voltage - Electrical 101


BTW, everybody has broken vanity mirror covers, its the first "mod." I am on my 3rd used 986 and they have all been broken off.

Thanks Tony. I guess I can remove the light bulb from my pass side door light that has a way of staying on longer then it should. But ultimately I will just fix the sticking door switch.....I can handle a door switch.

Man....u gave me yet another book for homework!!!! This Porsche is sending me back to school....I like Youtube University....thats more my speed.

CRAP! I forgot to ask.....u left me hangin. The first mod???? Well I have to do that....what is the first mod to do with my visors? And dont make me read a book to do the fix.

If you hooked a trickle charger to the battery and charged it to 12.6. and then it dropped to 12.3 without driving starting or putting other types of draw on the battery I would say your battery is shot. 12.3 Volts is only a 30% charge.

It’s a joke. I meant the visor cover breaks off, apparently for everyone that has these cars, hence the first mod.
There are aftermarket replacements out there, but I don’t need or want a mirror on the visor anyway, so I’m good.


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Blue and Tony.......thanks for stickin with me in my first weeks of trying to get a handle on this little monster.

The visor mod......funny I couldnt wait to log back on so I could get going on the mod that must be done by all Boxster owners.......so much so that its a no brainer.....all to find out that I have already finished.....mwa mwaaaaaaaa.....funny stuff.

Blue......Im jumpin in head first in about an hour....that batt is coming out and I will find the date code etc........will also clean up contacts and get the ole girl ready for round 2.

Purchased some more marker bulbs for the tail lights.....lets see if tail lights round 3 will be successful. Will also crack open the 3rd tail light tonight and replace bulbs.

I will outline a simple parasitic draw test for you. (At least the way I do it)
1.make sure everything is off.
key off
Radio off
dash lights off
door lights off
open frunk, remove frunk light fixture, remove light bulb. (so there is no current draw to frunk light).
remove positive battery cable from battery post.
with multi meter set to volts connect one probe to positive battery post.
connect the other probe to positive battery cable.
You should not see more then perhaps 1 tenth - 1 half volt draw
If you see more then that you have excess draw.;)

Incorrect. Voltage tells you absolutely nothing. ;)

You need to set it amps and measure the current drain. Report results.

Particlewave,
Thank you very much for correcting me.;)
Electrics is probably my weakest ability went it comes to automotive.
oh wait, maybe be it's driving:eek: