Water pump failed - got stranded

[Lacostas]

Hello folks,

So after few months that i was delaying the water pump replacement, i got stranded. Thankfully the pump went while i was 5 meters away from parking the car, so no overheating happened.

Warning light came on, i tried to refill with water initially, only to find out that the water was immediately getting drained under the car. Havent opened yet to check what damage has been done exactly, but have some stuff to ask.

Im thinking to DIY this job (already bought Pierburg) but im not sure what things i must check to be sure of any -side- damages cause of the pump "exploding".

Also, after i install new pump, what shall i pay attention to, regading the new coolant ill fill into ?

Some say that i must open the bleeder valve for releasing the coolant pressure ?!

Thanks!

[Quadcammer]

your concern is that the impellar blades cracked off and are wedged in the head or oil cooler. If your blades are accounted for or a bit scored but not gone, you should be fine. If water is pouring out that easily however, that likely means the bearing was cooked and you may have had quite a lot of wobble on the impeller. Won't know till you get it off.

If no issue, then install new water pump, get the ass end of the car way up in the air, open the bleeder, pour in most of the new coolant till tank is full, run car, hold revs at like 2500 until thermostat opens and then continue filling.

Drive for next few days with vent cap open, top up as needed, and you're done.

[Lacostas]

Originally Posted by Quadcammer

your concern is that the impellar blades cracked off and are wedged in the head or oil cooler. If your blades are accounted for or a bit scored but not gone, you should be fine. If water is pouring out that easily however, that likely means the bearing was cooked and you may have had quite a lot of wobble on the impeller. Won't know till you get it off.

If no issue, then install new water pump, get the ass end of the car way up in the air, open the bleeder, pour in most of the new coolant till tank is full, run car, hold revs at like 2500 until thermostat opens and then continue filling.

Drive for next few days with vent cap open, top up as needed, and you're done.

Before failing, for couple of months there was a "diesel like" engine nocking sound, coming from the water pump.

1) get the ass end of the car way up in the air -> Really needed ?
2) run car, ---> Start the engine with Bleeder open ?
3) Drive for next few days with vent cap open --> Vent cap you mean the bleeder or the Coolant vent that i fill coolant into ?

If the car is hot and the coolant vent cap is open, isnt this supposed to be bad ? I remember they say never open the coolant vent while car is hot


Thanks!

[ndfrigi]

might as well replace the thermostat with a lower type of 160 degrees.

[rexcramer]

Originally Posted by Lacostas

1) get the ass end of the car way up in the air -> Really needed ?
2) run car, ---> Start the engine with Bleeder open ?
3) Drive for next few days with vent cap open --> Vent cap you mean the bleeder or the Coolant vent that i fill coolant into ?

Or, if you can afford/justify it, use an Airlift. They really are as easy to use as the youtube videos show. I can't imagine doing it 'old school' now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQnfUe6P5VI

[Lacostas]

Originally Posted by rexcramer

Or, if you can afford/justify it, use an Airlift. They really are as easy to use as the youtube videos show. I can't imagine doing it 'old school' now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQnfUe6P5VI

I prefer the old school for now. But I don’t know how

[kk2002s]

+1 on the airlift but doing the bleeder valve way can work.
Rear up high is to get air bubble to travel out of radiators to highest point, the Bleeder valve.
Fill cap tight, Bleeder open

+1 on low temp thermo

When I did mine for preventive maintenance, I flushed a couple times with distilled water then final re-fill with Porsche Pink

Good luck and hopefully your old WP didn't do any damage

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by Quadcammer

your concern is that the impellar blades cracked off and are wedged in the head or oil cooler. If your blades are accounted for or a bit scored but not gone, you should be fine. If water is pouring out that easily however, that likely means the bearing was cooked and you may have had quite a lot of wobble on the impeller. Won't know till you get it off.

If no issue, then install new water pump, get the ass end of the car way up in the air, open the bleeder, pour in most of the new coolant till tank is full, run car, hold revs at like 2500 until thermostat opens and then continue filling.

Drive for next few days with vent cap open, top up as needed, and you're done.

This. Exactly this. Don't overthink it.

[tonythetiger]

low tech is fine, just takes an extra hour and isn't perfect...you might STILL end up with air bubbles and with the airlift, you also confirm the system holds pressure. win-win

[jmitro]

there's a whole tech article that covers all of this
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/34-WATER-Thermostat_and_Pump/34-WATER-Thermostat_and_Pump.htm

[tonythetiger]

rather then start start a new post...Opinions, y'all

I am replacing the water pumps on 2 of my cars, 2001 and 2002 S with 100K and 82K respectively. since I'm replacing the front mounts, this is a while I'm in there thing. Going to the 160 degree thermostat and replacing the serpentine belt. Anything else?

Most important, is it critical to use the composite impeller opposed to aluminum? The URO pump says aluminum impeller and I have been happy with their parts. I get if the WP implodes, composite does less damage, but I want to hear about this.

[Quadcammer]

use the oem Pierberg composite impeller pump.

I'd consider doing the two big coolant hoses that run up to the radiators.

[tonythetiger]

Originally Posted by Quadcammer

use the oem Pierberg composite impeller pump.

I'd consider doing the two big coolant hoses that run up to the radiators.

yep, the consensus seems to be pierberg...adds money to the job, but figure Ill follow that advice. Which hoses, are there part numbers out there? THIS IS THE 3.2 S MODEL (BOTH OF THEM)
The hoses do worry me since these are nearly 20 years old. are some more prone to failure then others?

[kk2002s]

I replaced the oil heat exchanger O rings while I did WP thermo coolant

[Starter986]

... might as well upgrade the oil pressure relief valve, while you're under there. Inexpensive part... 5 minute job.

[tonythetiger]

Originally Posted by Quadcammer

use the oem Pierberg composite impeller pump.

I'd consider doing the two big coolant hoses that run up to the radiators.

if you are talking the hoses back by the pump and thermostat, why not, about 75 bucks in parts? I will at least be prepared to replace them.
so this is the hose off the thermostat, i think

996-106-502-04

for the hose off the WP, one of my cars is tiptronic and the other is manual, (2002 and 2001) having a hard time telling which hose is for each car, but appears they are different.

[Racer Boy]

I just replaced the WP on my 2002 2.7. I replaced the pump, the thermostat w/low temp model, the engine mount, and all the hoses that come off the engine that you can get to while under the car - two big ones that go to the water pipes that run to the radiators, and two smaller hoses. It was all pretty accessible once the car was up high enough. I replaced the WP (Pierberg) from the front access panel, and while I was there installed an underdrive pulley. Since cooling was on my mind, I also replaced the bleeder valve O-rings.

Replace the hoses after you replaced the front engine mount, the big hoses are right in the way of the mount.

[BFeller]

Originally Posted by tonythetiger

rather then start start a new post...Opinions, y'all

I am replacing the water pumps on 2 of my cars, 2001 and 2002 S with 100K and 82K respectively. since I'm replacing the front mounts, this is a while I'm in there thing. Going to the 160 degree thermostat and replacing the serpentine belt. Anything else?

Most important, is it critical to use the composite impeller opposed to aluminum? The URO pump says aluminum impeller and I have been happy with their parts. I get if the WP implodes, composite does less damage, but I want to hear about this.

The metal impeller can shave the block and increase the tolerance between the impeller and the block, reducing cooling flow.

[tonythetiger]

Any advice, strike that, part numbers and diagrams for the rubber hoses in the cooling system. There are about a dozen and I can’t figure out what I want cruising around the bet. I have 2001 and 2002 Boxster 3.2 S, one is a tip and the other manual. Hoses differ a little.
Every other car I’ve had, I could get parts diagrams and could figure it out on my own. Even the dealer parts counter is challenged.
Anyone else figured this out, I promise I’ll share


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[tonythetiger]

Originally Posted by tonythetiger

Any advice, strike that, part numbers and diagrams for the rubber hoses in the cooling system. There are about a dozen and I can’t figure out what I want cruising around the bet. I have 2001 and 2002 Boxster 3.2 S, one is a tip and the other manual. Hoses differ a little.
Every other car I’ve had, I could get parts diagrams and could figure it out on my own. Even the dealer parts counter is challenged.
Anyone else figured this out, I promise I’ll share


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Keeping in mind that the hose from water pump is different for the tiptronics, found this in another post and it has me on my way; Manual 986 Boxster S:

1 900-123-144-30 Crush Washer/Sealing Ring for Coolant Drain Plug (10 X 14 X 1 mm), Boxster/Boxster S (1997-04)

1 996-106-222-17 Water Hose to Water Pump (3-Way Hose), Boxster/Boxster S w/Manual Trans. (1997-04) (Purple Arrow)
OR
1 996-106-522-04 Water hose to water pump (4-way hose), tiptronic (2000-2004) (Purple Arrow)
*(1997-99) use 996-106-222-16

1 996-106-501-07 Water Hose to Water Flange at Oil Pump Housing (Large Hose), Boxster/Boxster S (1997-04) (Orange Arrow)
1 996-106-502-06 Water Hose to Water Flange (Large Hose), 986 Boxster/Boxster S (1997-04) (Green Arrow)
1 999-512-609-09 Hose Clamp 32 x 12
2 999-512-589-09 Hose Clamp 25 z 12
2 999-512-594-09 Hose Clamp 53 x 12
2 999-512-668-09 Hose Clamp 49 x 12