Oil Filter choice

[thstone]

I use a Hengst or Mahle OEM-style filter with Mobil 1 and I change it often.

[husker boxster]

The LN spin-on filter adaptor provides 2 advantages:

1. As JFP says, it overcomes the factory bypass system. With a factory canister, at start-up oil is bypassed from the filter. With the adaptor, oil flows thru the filter at start-up.

2. If you plan to do any track days, the spin-in filter is more robust incase you do any "agricultural runs". The spin-on filter sits lower than the sump and is an easy target for anything you may drive over. The plastic canister may come out in 2nd place if it hits anything solid.

[Frodo]

Originally Posted by husker boxster

The LN spin-on filter adaptor provides 2 advantages:

If you plan to do any track days, the spin-in filter is more robust incase you do any "agricultural runs"...

Spoken like a true Cornhusker

Yeah, I like the spin-on adapter ("SPOFA") as well. LN also has the package that includes the magnetic drain plug in the deal. And I, like several other responders, go with the Wix. In my case ('01) it's the Wix 51042, which is easily obtainable at our local O'Reilly Auto Parts store.

The only disadvantage I see is that it's tougher to inspect the filter element following an oil change.

[husker boxster]

Originally Posted by Frodo

Spoken like a true Cornhusker

Hey, they grow alfalfa in the infield of my local track (RPM). Sometimes it needs harvesting.

[Frodo]

Originally Posted by husker boxster

Hey, they grow alfalfa in the infield of my local track (RPM). Sometimes it needs harvesting.

Nice of you to oblige them (though hopefully only infrequently ).

I got to looking at the specs for the filter I’ve been using (51042, on the right below) vs the one stevedOx linked (51348):




I noticed that his specifies a value (8-11 PSI) under the section labeled “By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI” whereas the one I’ve been using indicates “None” in that space. I don’t really pretend to understand a lot of this, but does that “None” indicate a lack of bypass at start up (ie a good thing)? And that my setup with the 51042 is preferable to that with the 51348? Or am I totally off-base on this? Educate me, please

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Frodo

Nice of you to oblige them (though hopefully only infrequently ).

I got to looking at the specs for the filter I’ve been using (51042, on the right below) vs the one stevedOx linked (51348):




I noticed that his specifies a value (8-11 PSI) under the section labeled “By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI” whereas the one I’ve been using indicates “None” in that space. I don’t really pretend to understand a lot of this, but does that “None” indicate a lack of bypass at start up (ie a good thing)? And that my setup with the 51042 is preferable to that with the 51348? Or am I totally off-base on this? Educate me, please

No bypass means 100% filtration 100% of the time; no unfiltered oil, ever. This style filter has been used on several high output factory engines for years without issues.

[jaykay]

You can also slap on a filter magnet with the spin-ons