alignment info and question

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by The Radium King

and ... steve - saw your thread on the spc arms on rennlist. let me know how they work out, as they are half the price of the competition. i am thinking of some for the front if max camber i can get with camber plates is -2.5.

They are working out but you have to keep an eye on that threaded bottom plate as I had one of mine get loose somehow (or maybe it was always loose?) Or maybe it loosened when I was installing the arm. I believe if the ball and stud turns, for example when you are first tightening and the tapered shaft isn't tight enough, it will turn the ball which presses that threaded cap which I think can turn and subsequently loosen it. One onwer left a review on Pelican that the threaded cap fell off when driving. I think this could be mitigated by using loctite on the threaded cap and running them only on the back.

I bought the little wrench to use to tighten them and I have tightened them down to (will have to check but it was the min inch/pounds reading on my "small" torque wrench, which did allow me to get some tightening on both) and then I used wicking loctite all around the threads.

If you buy new I would:

1. Remove the threaded cap and clean the threads of any grease that may have seeped down
2. Put loctite, I like 243 medium oil resistant on the threads.
3. Thread it on and immediately do the procedure to set the turning resistance before the loctite cures
4. Measure the torque it takes to get the bottom threaded cap to turn at that point.
5. Check it from time to time using that torque value.
6. Not use them on the front, when the car steers the arm would rotate around the ball and I think that would cause a potential for loosening since the ball would help to rotate the cap off when steering in one direction. In the back you only get movement in the other direction. Or, find some way to safety that cap so it can't unthread.

Also there is no way to counterhold the stud when installing, I plan to buy two small jam nuts and see if that works.

All that said I have been using them on the back for 5-6 track days now and I like the extra neg camber I can get in the back with them, it is helping I would use them on the back again, but not the front.

[The Radium King]

thanks. honestly, they frighten me from what i've read about them. starting to get shimmies and rattles from the front and back, so thinking rebuild time. current thoughts are:

front - erp lcas (cheaper than everything but the spc units and never heard anything bad about erp). already have stomski racing tie rods. tarret thrust arms. this will get all the rubber out of the system, and the adjustable thrust arms will allow me to widen my track and get rid of front spacers. will have to figure out what i want for front caster setting.

rear - eps thrust arms and lcas (their thrust arms have the harder bushing, and the lcas have a serviceable ball joint). already have rennline toe rods. get aftermarket inner bushings and thrust arm bushings for the new lcas to get the remaining rubber out of the system. camber and track width not an issue at the back.

powerflex sway bar bushings front and back?

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by The Radium King

thanks. honestly, they frighten me from what i've read about them.

I rigged up way to safety wire them and it worked, (but is kludgy) had a good weekend at Sebring with them, and I just learned that they have revised the design and there is a positive locking mechanism designed in to prevent the caps from unthreading. Outside of the cap loosening, I have been satisfied with the arms. They are going to warranty exchange my old arms for the new design, as soon as they get some of the new ones in stock. I will report back with pics when I get them.

[maytag]

Originally Posted by The Radium King

thanks. honestly, they frighten me from what i've read about them. starting to get shimmies and rattles from the front and back, so thinking rebuild time. current thoughts are:

front - erp lcas (cheaper than everything but the spc units and never heard anything bad about erp). already have stomski racing tie rods. tarret thrust arms. this will get all the rubber out of the system, and the adjustable thrust arms will allow me to widen my track and get rid of front spacers. will have to figure out what i want for front caster setting.

rear - eps thrust arms and lcas (their thrust arms have the harder bushing, and the lcas have a serviceable ball joint). already have rennline toe rods. get aftermarket inner bushings and thrust arm bushings for the new lcas to get the remaining rubber out of the system. camber and track width not an issue at the back.

powerflex sway bar bushings front and back?

TRK:
did you ever settle on a caster setting that you like?

[The Radium King]

Originally Posted by maytag

TRK:
did you ever settle on a caster setting that you like?

nope - car didn't move once in 2019 - spent all my time trying to keep the triumph running. do have all the components assembled (except the solid inner lca bushings - finding it difficult to pay ira $150 x4) so wanting to get it assembled this spring. will most likely stay w factory spec however.

there is an interesting thread on rennlist about a guy who bought a 996 track car and was experiencing front rub; turns out the car had so many shims in the lcas that the wheels were about an inch forward in the wheel well. he corrected the caster and noted a reduction in steering 'sharpness' as a result. if interested i can search it out for you and you might be able to pm him directly.

[maytag]

Originally Posted by The Radium King

nope - car didn't move once in 2019 - spent all my time trying to keep the triumph running. do have all the components assembled (except the solid inner lca bushings - finding it difficult to pay ira $150 x4) so wanting to get it assembled this spring. will most likely stay w factory spec however.



there is an interesting thread on rennlist about a guy who bought a 996 track car and was experiencing front rub; turns out the car had so many shims in the lcas that the wheels were about an inch forward in the wheel well. he corrected the caster and noted a reduction in steering 'sharpness' as a result. if interested i can search it out for you and you might be able to pm him directly.

I'm interested. I'm maxed-out on shims and still can't hit -3d, and I'm experiencing the described issue, with the wheel so far forward. (Adding camber plates this winter, to alleviate that a little)
Whose thrust arms are you using?

I REALLY want to use pcarferher's (member here) ever since he teased me with an image of something he isn't ready you sell me yet, hahaha. He says he's not close (too busy making his LCA's and camber plates) , so I'll probably need to go another way.
Would love your opinion or advice.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk