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ok, home alignment complete. thoughts:
on the front i was able to get -2.8 on both sides, with 1/16" toe out. camber is very sensitive to ride height and wheel position (have your steering wheel straight when doing this). also, you pretty much have to take the car for a drive after each setting change to let everything settle back into place after jacking.
i have ksport coilovers with camber plates and the adjusting screws are virtually inaccessible once the coilovers are installed, so set them to max negative and use the slots to fine-tune. -2.8 is pretty good, but looks like i need some adjustable front lower control arms to get myself into the -3 range where i'd like to be (or lower the car - that will get some negative camber also).
if you are thinking of adjusting camber between street and track, i found that .5 degrees of negative camber at the strut top = 1/4" toe out. realise increasing negative camber at the lca wil have the opposite effect - toe in (i can't quote a ratio for that). so, you can't really modify camber without getting the toe someplace you don't want it.
on the rears, same deal - camber plates are not accessible. also, strut tops are are not slotted. fortunately, there is an eccentric on the lcas so i was able to get -2.2 on both sides with the camber plates in the middle position. again, 0.5 degrees of negative camber at the lca = 1/4" toe out. i was able to dial the rear toe back to 1/16" toe in. easy to do - you can use the eccentric bolt on the rear toe arm or, if you have an adjustable one like me, adjust the arm instead. possible to get immediate results this way - back off the two locking nuts and you can adjust the arm with the car on the ground and just dial in the toe you want.
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