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Old 03-17-2018, 07:59 AM   #1
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Just got a call this morning from the repair shop. They pulled the oil filter and it was "full" of metal pieces. I decided not to got further with the investigation to determine if it was the IMS or other parts. Time to source a new motor. Looking at:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-986-Boxster-Complete-Engine-Motor-2-5-2-5L-84k-Miles-M96-20-IMS-UPDATED/263021815320?fits=Year%3A1999%7CMake%3APorsche%7CM odel%3ABoxster&epid=2002468421&hash=item3d3d526618:g:Lc8AAOSwv~1aDInA&vxp=mtr

$3K or best offer. Any suggestions on a best offer?
Sorry to hear that its toast. Bummer.

With only 84K miles and the IMS done, I'd offer $2600 and see what they say. $2750 is about the going price, but even if you had to pay the full $3K you're still not getting a bad deal.
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Old 03-17-2018, 09:19 AM   #2
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Sorry to hear about the motor. Have you considered doning the 3.4l swapp? Since you have to put a motor in oppurtunity knocks! Lol
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Old 03-18-2018, 04:14 AM   #3
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Sorry to hear about the motor. Have you considered doning the 3.4l swapp? Since you have to put a motor in oppurtunity knocks! Lol
Is a 2.5L to 3.4L possible for a 99 with manual transmission without too many additional modifications and expense?
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Old 03-18-2018, 06:42 AM   #4
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Is a 2.5L to 3.4L possible for a 99 with manual transmission without too many additional modifications and expense?
You'll be lucky to find a 3.4 for under $5000. I have one in my boxster and love it
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Old 03-19-2018, 02:16 PM   #5
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Sorry to hear that its toast. Bummer.

With only 84K miles and the IMS done, I'd offer $2600 and see what they say. $2750 is about the going price, but even if you had to pay the full $3K you're still not getting a bad deal.
It has free shipping, from CA to FL, that's probably worth 4 or 5 hundred. So at $3000, it's not a bad deal if the engine is okay. Figure anothe $2 grand or so to have the engines swapped or, as we previously discussed, you can do it yourself. I did mine, and so far it's okay.
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Old 03-20-2018, 03:50 AM   #6
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It has free shipping, from CA to FL, that's probably worth 4 or 5 hundred. So at $3000, it's not a bad deal if the engine is okay. Figure anothe $2 grand or so to have the engines swapped or, as we previously discussed, you can do it yourself. I did mine, and so far it's okay.
I plan on doing the swap at home, with help in between the overhaul of my 66 912 which is already in progress.
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Old 03-20-2018, 06:38 AM   #7
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Sorry to hear that its toast. Bummer.

With only 84K miles and the IMS done, I'd offer $2600 and see what they say. $2750 is about the going price, but even if you had to pay the full $3K you're still not getting a bad deal.
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I plan on doing the swap at home, with help in between the overhaul of my 66 912 which is already in progress.
My brother had a 67 912, got it for $1200 & $10000 later (professionally rebuilt engine) he sold it for $20K.

You can do it. If you need moral support or "blind leading the blind" help & tips, PM me. I recently finished installing a 2.7 l in my '01. It is a puzzle and an adventure!
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Old 03-20-2018, 08:17 AM   #8
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My brother had a 67 912, got it for $1200 & $10000 later (professionally rebuilt engine) he sold it for $20K.

You can do it. If you need moral support or "blind leading the blind" help & tips, PM me. I recently finished installing a 2.7 l in my '01. It is a puzzle and an adventure!
Thanks for the encouragement. I plan on using the full resources of the pool of knowledge on this board to help me through the project. Stand by...
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Old 03-21-2018, 09:27 AM   #9
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Based on what the repair shop told me "oil filter is full of metal chunks", and the engine is seized, I will assume the IMS let go. If that's the case, does this affect any other systems, i.e. transmission or other components. Will I need to do anything besides remove/replace the motor?
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Old 03-21-2018, 10:45 AM   #10
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Based on what the repair shop told me "oil filter is full of metal chunks", and the engine is seized, I will assume the IMS let go. If that's the case, does this affect any other systems, i.e. transmission or other components. Will I need to do anything besides remove/replace the motor?
No. All the other stuff is separated and the nasty engine stuff can't get in.

However, there is a list of stuff to replace while you're in there. I replaced the water pump, engine mount, spark plug tubes, spark plugs, rear main seal, front main seal. You might consider replacing the O2 sensors, cleaning your MAF sensor, and plenum tubes while they're easy to get to. If your starter was noisy, replace it. If your's is a manual, replace the clutch components and be sure to have the flywheel resurfaced. Clean, clean, clean. You'll never get a better opportunity.

While it's out, replace as many of the coolant hoses as possible. My favorites were the two straight sections that go from the coolant tank through the fire wall manifold and then to the two metal coolant lines. If you get a good fit, use worm drive clamps for this--makes it a lot easier if you ever have to do it again. I reused spring clamps for other areas--specifically around the coolant tank/manifold.

You may need to replace the dipstick tube and the filler hose. Do it, they're cheap and nice to work with as they're not brittle.

Whille it was all out, I rebuilt (clean, grease, new boots) the CV axles. Easy peasy if they're already out.

The fuel line disconnects under the car on the front/left of the engine. The one on the right disconnects on the fuel rail. Electrical connectors in the trunk are a puzzle, but if you stare at them long enough, you can figure out that you need to pull out locking tabs from the sides.

You're gonna learn a lot!
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