Slight problem during oil change, what to do next?

[Paul]

Hopefully not the rod and/or main bearings....

[Mauiguy]

Durametric scan said no faults, but doesn't the engine need to be running for it to show everything? Obviously I didn't start it...

[Nine8Six]

Originally Posted by Mauiguy

Durametric scan said no faults, but doesn't the engine need to be running for it to show everything? Obviously I didn't start it...

No. Needs eng running only if you need access to live data. Stored faults can be read with the key removed from the ignition in fact. Mine does anyway.Just not sure about Durametric... better not to take any chances. therefore ignition ON.

So... looks like your car fires at the right time and mix its gas & air properly. Anything you worry about that much that prevents you from running the car with oil? If any gears went 'grinding' in there, surely related to the windshield washer pump. My guess mind you

Disclosure: I know nothing about cars. Everything will be fine as long as it looks good

Your call

ps: second hands P engines are $1500 here now, twice less than what labor cost to open your valve covers. Those half-plastic $1500 engines installs in an afternoon with a mate or two also. Cost 4~5 pizza and few beers after.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Mauiguy

Durametric scan said no faults, but doesn't the engine need to be running for it to show everything? Obviously I didn't start it...

Sorry, but there is no code for "owner stupidity".........

[particlewave]

An absence of codes really means nothing. You are still in the same predicament.

The way I see it, you have two options:
1) Fill the oil and take a risk as is or
2) take it to a mechanic and confess your crime.

Option 1 is not a good choice.

[algiorda]

Oh, just put some new oil in it and drive it.

[JBauer]

Originally Posted by algiorda

Oh, just put some new oil in it and drive it.

I'm guessing that's what will end up happening.

[rexcramer]

One man's opinion. Don't put any oil in it until you jack it back up and pull the sump plate off. Look for shiny bits laying about.

[pidj]

Originally Posted by jbauer

i'm guessing that's what will end up happening.

+1 . :d

[Mig]

Originally Posted by algiorda

Oh, just put some new oil in it and drive it.

The damage (if any) is done. a boroscope won't tell you anything about main bearing or connecting rod bearing damage.

If this was my car I would put the oil in. Cross my fingers and start it up.

Good luck.

[Nine8Six]

^ this. +1

[911monty]

Pulling the pan will also tell you nothing. The damage if any will be localized and with no oil flow from lack of oil, to move debris, will still be at the point of origin.
At this point the primary concern IMO will be the chain tensioners. With lack of oil pressure they are likely now retracted further than normal. If your cam timing hasn't already slipped, it could slip on restart when there is resistance to rotation from cylinder pressure.
With the skills demonstrated previously I'd recommend a professional look at your engine. BUT in this case the potential damage if any is certainly catastrophic, (main and rod bearings, wrist pins and valves from slipped timing, the Other end of the IMSB ?!?) and I don't see an engine inspection teardown as likely, Then pull the spark plugs, fill with oil and crank the starter for a good minute or two to get oil back where it should be. Hopefully pumping up the tensioners. Reinstall spark plugs, liberally apply Maui Wowee, cross your fingers and hope for the best. Could get lucky.

[san rensho]

Originally Posted by algiorda

Oh, just put some new oil in it and drive it.

Agreed, just put oil in it and take out the fuel pump fuse so that the car cannot start and then crank the motor until the oil pressure light goes out. And I wouldn't sweat it too much. I know it's a different motor, but many years ago I had a Fiat 850 that lost all of it oil while I was stopped at a stop sign, I saw the oil pressure light go on and I immediately shut it off, but I did hear a bit of a rattle.

after I put oil in to it, it rattle a little bit when i first started it but after that the car ran fine. Well, is fine as a Fiat 850 could run.

[Fintro11]

............ ouch next time find a small kid to crawl under there and at least get it finger tight

[Nine8Six]

wroom wroom?? we're waiting... we are waiting to find out if we can run those M96 without oil. Tired to change my oil every 2500km... I'd like to extend this maintenance every 15,000

[911monty]

Slight Problem?????? Definitely candidate for understatement of eternity!!!

[algiorda]

If there was synthetic oil, wouldn't the residue cover essential surfaces for the small time he ran it without oil?

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by algiorda

If there was synthetic oil, wouldn't the residue cover essential surfaces for the small time he ran it without oil?

That residual film is good for maybe a faction of a min. until oil pressure builds up. He started it and tried to drive it back up the ramps, which is way too long to be without both the lubrication and cooling of the oil as the engine was now under a load. Add in that the engine started to make ugly noises, and the prognosis in not good.......

[Nine8Six]

Originally Posted by algiorda

If there was synthetic oil, wouldn't the residue cover essential surfaces for the small time he ran it without oil?

Debatable. Modern automotive lubricants are designed for very high temp and are thick (effective). You can test/rub two metal parts together for quite a long time! The problem here is the owner had "old oil". Old oil can run-off quite quickly leaving practically nothing to protect metal surfaces.

When load and rpm hits, heats immediately burns off the ineffective oil :/

[JayG]

For starters, there are tons of threads and web postings on changing the oil

The car needs to be level to properly drain, not lifting one corner