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Old 04-15-2017, 09:35 AM   #1
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Stuck rotor screws

I've put some wd-40 on them and been hitting with an impact driver, and they haven't budged. Any ideas? Thought for sure the impact driver would work.

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Old 04-15-2017, 10:00 AM   #2
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Never mind.... it helps if you have the impact driver set to loosen...😜

I have a cheap one that doesn't have L/R markings on it.
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Old 04-15-2017, 12:55 PM   #3
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BTW -for your task, WD-40 (Water Dispersant) is ineffective. Try PB Blaster or better, Kroil from Kano Labs.
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Old 04-15-2017, 01:48 PM   #4
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Are these the original screws that came on the car or had they been changed before? Just asking as my front rotors did 100k miles (gasp!) before I swapped them and the screws came out without too much difficulty.
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Old 04-15-2017, 01:49 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gelbster View Post
BTW -for your task, WD-40 (Water Dispersant) is ineffective. Try PB Blaster or better, Kroil from Kano Labs.
+1 for the PB Blaster
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Old 04-15-2017, 02:19 PM   #6
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Hit it with a generous amount of PB blaster, make sure ambient temperature is about room temperature, then wait a couple hours/days and try again, works most of the time for me.
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Old 04-15-2017, 03:29 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Gelbster View Post
BTW -for your task, WD-40 (Water Dispersant) is ineffective. Try PB Blaster or better, Kroil from Kano Labs.
Water Displacement, actually, and it's far from "ineffective". It is a penetrating lubricant with anti-corrosion properties and has been used for breaking seized, corroded, rusted bolts for decades...and for good reason. It works.
Why, just the other day I used it to break loose an O2 sensor after a 2 minute soak.
Kroil and PB work well, too.

Don't just parrot what some internet guy said once.
The whole "it's not a lubricant" lie is getting really old.



Last edited by particlewave; 04-15-2017 at 03:36 PM.
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Old 04-15-2017, 03:52 PM   #8
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+1 on Kroil
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Old 04-15-2017, 04:06 PM   #9
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+2 for kroil.
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Old 04-15-2017, 09:14 PM   #10
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I used a propane torch to heat the screw and then hit it hard a couple of times with the impact driver.
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Old 04-16-2017, 12:30 AM   #11
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Yes, PB & Kroil, but additionally, I keep a pump can with a mix of ATF, Acetone, and a bit of whatever motor oil I have left from the last oil change. Works as well as anything else.

My HF Flux core welder isn't good for much, but it does apply focused heat to a stuck bolt. I had a Thermostat bolt on a car that broke and would not budge. After about a week of failure, I tried to weld a nut onto the stub. My weld gave out, but the bolt came out easily with vice-grips after that.
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Old 04-16-2017, 03:14 AM   #12
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I like PB Blaster also but the fact of the matter is there are many over the counter and home brew recipes that work to help free stubborn/rusted bolts/screws/nuts . When you go to reassemble make sure you use either anti-seize compound or Milk of Magnesia on the threads and future removal will be much much easier .
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Old 04-16-2017, 07:36 AM   #13
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Be sure to put a bit of antiseize on the screws before you reinstall them, you will never have the problem again.
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Old 04-16-2017, 12:47 PM   #14
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Be sure to put a bit of antiseize on the screws before you reinstall them, you will never have the problem again.
+1.. copper anti seize paste

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Old 04-17-2017, 05:46 AM   #15
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For some reason I have never had a rotor screw stuck on any German car at least not one that I can recall, they always use high quality and grade hardware. Having said that, they are always stuck in even just a couple year old American cars. The easiest way to get them out is to just hit them on the outside edge with an air chisel and spin them right out. Takes 30 seconds if you have an air chisel.
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Old 04-18-2017, 03:56 AM   #16
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I bought a cheap impact hammer from Harbor freight and they came right off. not an air hammer one you hit with the hammer
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Old 04-22-2018, 05:13 AM   #17
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Sorry to jack the discussion but what **size** of screws are they? Are they pretty universal size? I see a few types/brands at rock auto or eBay for Honda and other Japanese brands, but nothing specific to the Porsche ( I had to ‘destroy’ the rear rotors retaining screws and need 2 more because putting back a wheel without these is a pia).

Last edited by CDNIcecube; 04-22-2018 at 05:45 AM.
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Old 04-22-2018, 06:57 AM   #18
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https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/1046/POR_1046_BRKPAD_pg5.htm#item18

They call it a 6x12 which I assume is 6mm x 12mm long flat head machine screw. $0.75
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Old 04-22-2018, 12:51 PM   #19
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"The whole "it's not a lubricant" lie is getting really old."

--they might have meant "...for in the bedroom."
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Old 04-23-2018, 07:38 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by 78F350 View Post
Yes, PB & Kroil, but additionally, I keep a pump can with a mix of ATF, Acetone, and a bit of whatever motor oil I have left from the last oil change. Works as well as anything else.

My HF Flux core welder isn't good for much, but it does apply focused heat to a stuck bolt. I had a Thermostat bolt on a car that broke and would not budge. After about a week of failure, I tried to weld a nut onto the stub. My weld gave out, but the bolt came out easily with vice-grips after that.
ATF is one of those secret penetrating oils that can really get you out of trouble at the wrecking yard.

WD 40 works in a pinch, so does power steering oil, but working at home I prefer Kroil or PB Blaster. The WD folks make a penetrating oil, too.

Back in my past, I had Fieros. They were as crummy as everyone has heard. The bolts were Torx drive and were put in using blue loctite. Using an air impact was not advised for obvious reasons, a breaker bar with a cheater got the job done.

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