02-28-2017, 10:14 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Long Island
Posts: 180
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Heater problem
Just replaced water pump and thermostat. Flushed coolant out and added new. Now the heater takes a long time to get warm and never seems to get as hot as it should.
Opinions?
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02-28-2017, 10:29 AM
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#2
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Motorist & Coffee Drinker
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 3,672
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeper31
Just replaced water pump and thermostat. Flushed coolant out and added new. Now the heater takes a long time to get warm and never seems to get as hot as it should.
Opinions?
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First guess is that the foam that covers the heater duct flaps is gone, so the air is not being forced through the heater core.
Check this thread: Interior vent debris
__________________
I am not an attorney, mechanic, or member of the clergy. Following any advice given in my posts is done at your own peril.
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02-28-2017, 01:53 PM
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#3
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2003 S, Arctic Silver, M6
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Posts: 1,347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeper31
Just replaced water pump and thermostat. Flushed coolant out and added new. Now the heater takes a long time to get warm and never seems to get as hot as it should.
Opinions?
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Okay, so the heat was fine before you changed the pump and thermostat? Not to discount 78F350 but I would venture that the heat issue has something to do with the pump and/or thermostat. General rule of thumb; look at what you last did before the issue arose. Air in the system, coolant level, DOA faulty thermostat or pump could all be part of it. Some questions; Does the temperature get to ~180 F? Does it say there? Does it rise and/or fall when the heater is activated?
Last edited by paulofto; 02-28-2017 at 01:57 PM.
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02-28-2017, 01:59 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2014
Location: S.California
Posts: 2,027
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You have an air pocket (WAG)
Airlift or use the burp valve.Search for more.Pelican has the diy
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03-01-2017, 04:35 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Long Island
Posts: 180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulofto
Okay, so the heat was fine before you changed the pump and thermostat? Not to discount 78F350 but I would venture that the heat issue has something to do with the pump and/or thermostat. General rule of thumb; look at what you last did before the issue arose. Air in the system, coolant level, DOA faulty thermostat or pump could all be part of it. Some questions; Does the temperature get to ~180 F? Does it say there? Does it rise and/or fall when the heater is activated?
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I think the heat wasn't as good as it should be before I did the water pump.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gelbster
You have an air pocket (WAG)
Airlift or use the burp valve.Search for more.Pelican has the diy
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If I had an air pocket wouldn't the heat be intermittent? Start off hot then go cool for a bit then back to hot?
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03-01-2017, 05:27 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Northville, MI
Posts: 249
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I second the air pocket. It is difficult to get all the air out. Bleeding is a must. Also, take the car out for a few spirited runs and rebleed and then do it again. I have experienced this long bleeding process on several other cars and had to really get them up to temp and bleed and then do it again as many as 3 times. Oh yeah, have the heat on high but the fan on low.
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03-01-2017, 04:03 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,466
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeper31
I think the heat wasn't as good as it should be before I did the water pump.
If I had an air pocket wouldn't the heat be intermittent? Start off hot then go cool for a bit then back to hot?
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The heater supply and return on 2 small hose under passenger seat so it's easy to get air trapped. Try the air lift if you have one or burp the tank valve if you don't I've even laid under the car and squeezed the hoses alternately.
__________________
2003 Black 986. modified for Advanced level HPDE and open track days.
* 3.6L LN block, 06 heads, Carrillo H rods, IDP with 987 intake, Oil mods, LN IMS. * Spec II Clutch, 3.2L S Spec P-P FW. * D2 shocks, GT3 arms & and links, Spacers front and rear * Weight reduced, No carpet, AC deleted, Remote PS pump, PS pump deleted. Recaro Pole position seats, Brey crouse ext. 5 point harness, NHP sport exhaust
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03-01-2017, 05:39 PM
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#8
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Beginner
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,659
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A major problem is the foam in the heater box disintegrating
 [img]
Not sure why the pic is upside down, but when the doors lose their foam, you get mildly warm heat, and mildly cool AC.
__________________
2003 S manual
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03-03-2017, 09:11 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Long Island
Posts: 180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsceash
The heater supply and return on 2 small hose under passenger seat so it's easy to get air trapped. Try the air lift if you have one or burp the tank valve if you don't I've even laid under the car and squeezed the hoses alternately.
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Can you use the air lift with the coolant in the car or do you have to drain and refill?
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