01-13-2017, 02:03 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2013
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 2,079
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Spark plug tube change without draining oil
Im planing on doing a plug change this weekend and I touhgt I would go ahead and change the tubes....the car will be stone cold so my question is it ok to pull the tubes without draining the oil ??
I cant see what the difference but I like to ask you folks who have done this before.
Thanks in advance
Braving these 70 degree January days here in Alabama
Dwight
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01-13-2017, 02:14 PM
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#2
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still plays with cars...
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Baden, ON, Canada
Posts: 1,088
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If the car is overnight cold, you shouldn't lose any oil, save what comes out on the tube itself.
__________________
Six speed 2000 Boxster S
Arctic Silver on Metropol Blue | LN Dual Row IMSR | Arctic Silver console, spoiler frame & bumperettes | Crios mod | Technobrace | RoboTop module & modified convertible top relay for one-touch roof operation
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01-13-2017, 02:27 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2013
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 2,079
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Thanks Steve
That is what I thought as well....and yes it has not been started since yesterday...so two days cold...should be good to go
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01-13-2017, 02:34 PM
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#4
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98 Arctic silver 986
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Upstate, NY
Posts: 1,452
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You should be fine. I've done it with my car warm and didn't lose any oil.
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01-13-2017, 03:48 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: FL
Posts: 4,144
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Me too, no oil lost.
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01-13-2017, 04:03 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 99
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No oil with overnight rest. Also you can change it with the spark plugs still in using Pedro's trick with the 7$ marine plug.(trim the edge to be as one cylinder).
I suggest cleaning the inside of the tube and the tool with goo gone or similar cleaner or even Acetone. It really improves the grip and friction of the tool and reducing the chance that you break a tube since you need tighten less.
To put them back. I put back one screw from the coil packs and used a socket laying on its side covering the tube, prying against both a 10mm long key to pry push them in. With this method I could change a bank in 10 mins. Versus the 1 hour it took me on the other bank  . Also, remember to pre-lubricate with engine oil and clean the carbon deposits on the valve cover.
Good luck!
__________________
2001 Boxster S (SOLD)
1991 Nissan Silvia "K"(Forgotten somewhere in Canada)
1989 240sx (Track car)
1987 325IS (Soon to be Spec E30 racecar)
2001 GSXR-600 (Almost warm outside!)
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01-13-2017, 06:04 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 2,497
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I just changed tube O-rings yesterday due to slight oil drips onto my exhaust on both sides, I had done this job once already, about 6 years ago.
No oil loss either time.
First time I did the job, I used the transom plug to pull the tubes. It worked but took a bit of effort to get the plug tight enough to pull the tube. I replaced both the tubes and the O-rings.
This week,I needed to just change O-rings. I used the long bolt with a washer method. For me, this method was WAY better and much quicker. At first, I had a bit of trouble trying to find a spot to place my screwdriver for leverage for pulling the tube. I was getting a bit frustrated, to the point of thinking about trying to find my transom plug, when the first tube finally pulled free. For the rest of the tubes, I found I could simply pull the plugs out by pulling on the bolt with my fingers...no problem!
FYI I had one coil plug that didn't want to seat on the coil during installation. The rubber weather boot had worked its way down the plug a bit too far and wasn't allowing the electrical connection to seat. I thought I had it but when I started the car I had a miss. I knew exactly where to check and sure enough CYL 2 connector was loose.
Make sure to start your car when you finish each side before mounting the tire to make sure you're good to go. I found each side took about 90 minutes including the plug change.
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01-13-2017, 07:37 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2013
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 2,079
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Lubricate O rings
I plan on using Parker O ring lubricant on my O rings, it is inert and will not start to degrade the O rings like petroleum
Its temperature range is - 65° to +400°F
I think it is the same stuff Porsche sells for $40 a tube
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01-13-2017, 07:50 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 2,497
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I used oil as a lube.
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01-14-2017, 06:44 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2013
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 2,079
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Started the job today
Not too bad a job so far, started on the drivers side first and got two cylinders done but that third with the pipe right in front of it...%##&^$^*^%
After pulling the first one I realized I had no spark plugs to install so I would up going to Oriley's and purchasing some Iridium NGK plugs, they were not the fancy quad electrode but they should suffice.
Got the third and last tube installed on the drivers side done when I quit for the evening, one of my problems I have to clean everything and I spent far more time cleaning everything to like new before reinstalling.....also anyone else have the problem when you have a designated car work day that every person you know calls or comes by to ask what you are doing and can you go look at a car I intend on buying....so my eight hour car day turned into more like three hours.
On the plus side the plugs were the perfect color and inside the tube openings everything was shiny clean.
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01-15-2017, 06:25 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Cranston RI
Posts: 902
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I changed mine a couple years ago with no oil loss. car was cold but somewhere I read warming up the car might be easier to get the tubes out. Getting those tubes out was a PITA! I used the transom Pedro recommended. also, use oem tubes the quality is much better than the aftermarket.
__________________
99 Porsche Boxster
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01-15-2017, 08:54 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 2,497
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This is one of those jobs where you just have to be patient and hold your mouth just right!. One tube will be easy and one will be tough.
The only one I had an issue with was the front passenger side. The tube wasn't hard but I had to get just the right length extension to get the plug out. One extension too short, next too long, causing interference.
Make sure all the coil wires are snapped in tight to save having to pull the tire again (ask me how I know).
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01-15-2017, 07:29 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2013
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 2,079
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A tip...or trick....or whatever
Got one side done and I had a really hard time getting the new tube in on the drivers side..the most forward one. I used a 1/2 inch ratchet handle with a large socket that just fit inside the tube (Around 1 1/14). I couldn't get the tube to snap in place with my fingers, the socket fit perfectly inside the tube and the handle allowed me to hold it perfectly in place with one hand. I used the other hand on the head of the ratchet and it gave me a lot of leverage and surface area to push on...the tube snapped into place perfectly.
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