Just ordered me some DT40

[TrumpyAl]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

OK guys, cool your jets.

Switching to DT40 from another oil you have two choices: Do a "belt and suspenders" pre flush to remove every trace of the old oil, or just do a simple oil change and switch to the DT40.

We have many customers using the DT40, myself included, and none of the cars were pre flushed. To date, all of the UOA's look excellent.

And you really do not need to change your oil every 3K miles, 5K is just fine.

Is it safe to assume that you are basing the 5000 miles advice on personal experience backed with lab analysis?

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by TrumpyAl

Is it safe to assume that you are basing the 5000km advice on personal experience backed with lab analysis?

I would say safe, except I would change it from personal experience to professional experience as JFP has done thousands of oil changes for his Porsche customers and hundreds (thousands?) of UOA.

Also he is saying 5K miles (5000 miles) vs 5000 km.

That said I changed my DT40 every 6 months/3,000 miles for the couple years I used it and always had a good UOA, even on the first one where I did not flush (previous fill Castrol Edge 5W40). If they made an XP9 that had a drain interval greater than 750 miles I would have switched to that since I am doing mostly track but with the drive to/from that equated to a full oil change each track weekend.

Now I am using Millers Nano 5W40, I am getting ready to do my first UOA and see how it did. That oil can (supposedly) stand up to the heat and stress of track use, and has a longer lived additive package, that should allow me to get back to a 3,000+ mileage interval while still holding up to track use, and this longer life should offset the higher cost of the oil. We'll see I have one more track event this weekend and then it is UOA time

[JayG]

Originally Posted by steved0x

I would say safe, except I would change it from personal experience to professional experience as JFP has done thousands of oil changes for his Porsche customers and hundreds (thousands?) of UOA.

Also he is saying 5K miles (5000 miles) vs 5000 km.

That said I changed my DT40 every 6 months/3,000 miles for the couple years I used it and always had a good UOA, even on the first one where I did not flush (previous fill Castrol Edge 5W40). If they made an XP9 that had a drain interval greater than 750 miles I would have switched to that since I am doing mostly track but with the drive to/from that equated to a full oil change each track weekend.

Now I am using Millers Nano 5W40, I am getting ready to do my first UOA and see how it did. That oil can (supposedly) stand up to the heat and stress of track use, and has a longer lived additive package, that should allow me to get back to a 3,000+ mileage interval while still holding up to track use, and this longer life should offset the higher cost of the oil. We'll see I have one more track event this weekend and then it is UOA time

Gee thanks Steve!
Introducing yet another oil, one that is even more $ than DT40 LOL
In looking at the specs, it is very similar to Motul 8100, with Motul maybe being slightly better spec, if I am reading them correctly.

In any case, looks like a very good oil

https://www.motul.com/system/product_descriptions/technical_data_sheets/52/original/8100_X-cess_5W-40_(GB).pdf?1458898826

CFS 5W40 NT - $19.95 : Performance Racing Oils - Millers Oils

And would agree that flushing the oil is a waste of $$. It really only matters to what a UOA says

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by JayG

Gee thanks Steve!
Introducing yet another oil, one that is even more $ than DT40 LOL

It makes the others look cheap! It is an expensive kool aid for sure.

[Flavor 987S]

Here is a recent VOA for the DT40. As you can see, it is NOT a high ZDDP oil. About the same as Mobil 0W40. I've tried DT40 in two different Porsches, my 2006 987S and my 2014 991S. The results via multiple UOAs were just fine....but no better than Mobil 0W40. And worse than Red Line 5W40 in the case for my Boxster.

Since I was looking for a better result (than M1 0W40) I switched to the Mobil 5W50 that is Porsche A40 approved. I've had the best results so far with this oil, and have been using it for over 6 years now (and about 80,000 combined miles). Very easy to find now at Napa Auto Parts (on sale recently for about $6/quart).

Mobil 0W40 is a good oil. DT40 is slightly better. Mobil 5W50 is slightly better, again.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by TrumpyAl

Is it safe to assume that you are basing the 5000 miles advice on personal experience backed with lab analysis?

Yes to both.

[jrebot2]

Or any porsche approved oil you can buy at Walmart where they have the best prices. In my opinion, paying that much for oil for DT40 is a waste of money. I have it in my car only because the former owner just changed it for me before I bought it.

[jrebot2]

What do you use?

[fanguy]

Just called L&N @ 815-472-2939

Said I was thinking about changing from Mobile1 to DT 40 5-40. He asked me about my car & engine. Here were my questions.
1. Would I need to do a flush with BR 40? He said not needed just change filter and get a good drain.
2. What is the recommended oil change interval? He said 5K or 6 months if you drive less than 5K a year. Some people change at 3K and if you like you could but really wasn’t a need.

Then called Driven Racing Oils @ 855-565-5650
Asked question # 1 and he suggested I speak with Scott in the technical development lab.

So, I asked Scott question 1 His answerer was the following.
“I am very familiar with the chemical structure of Mobile1. Being than DT & Mobile1 have the same base oil it is not a problem to change oil at an oil change. He said I can tell you how this comes about. If you change from an Esther based oil like Red-Line to Mobil1 or DT you would need to do a flush. If you do this without a flush you will get 40% decrease in Horse Power due the leakage on the Ring Seals and then folks think this oil stinks I’m going back to Red-Line.

Second question oil change interval? We recommend 5K for normal mixed street driving. If you driving is more at highway speeds and you wanted to extend beyond the 5K you could but wouldn’t go more than 7k.

Asked if I had any more questions and I not at this time and I appreciate him taking the time to help me make an informed decision. He said that’s why we’re here and call back if you have more questions.

[JayG]

Originally Posted by fanguy

called Driven Racing Oils.....
If you change from an Esther based oil like Red-Line to Mobil1 or DT you would need to do a flush. If you do this without a flush you will get 40% decrease in Horse Power due the leakage on the Ring Seals and then folks think this oil stinks I’m going back to Red-Line.

Really??????

[fanguy]

Jay,

I truly appreciate you quoting me, maybe next time you could be more careful on the edit.

You referenced I called L&N and next was the response that was said from Driven and omitted the L&N response.


Here is the Driven response, cut & paste no edit.

“”Then called Driven Racing Oils @ 855-565-5650
Asked question # 1 and he suggested I speak with Scott in the technical development lab.
So, I asked Scott question 1 His answerer was the following.

“I am very familiar with the chemical structure of Mobile1. Being than DT & Mobile1 have the same base oil it is not a problem to change oil at an oil change. He said I can tell you how this comes about. If you change from an Esther based oil like Red-Line to Mobil1 or DT you would need to do a flush. If you do this without a flush you will get 40% decrease in Horse Power due the leakage on the Ring Seals and then folks think this oil stinks I’m going back to Red-Line.””

I have read about going from Mobil1to DT40 on several forums finding conflicting information. So I called L&N and DT40’s manufacture Driven to move beyond the conflicting info and Driven who should know if their oil needs a flush. According to Driven from Mobil1 to DT40 no flush required.

Thanks for a good laugh before going to bed.