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Old 11-30-2016, 07:28 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrumpyAl View Post
Is it safe to assume that you are basing the 5000 miles advice on personal experience backed with lab analysis?
Yes to both.

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Old 11-30-2016, 10:54 AM   #22
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Mobil 1 0w40 or Castrol 0w40

Or any porsche approved oil you can buy at Walmart where they have the best prices. In my opinion, paying that much for oil for DT40 is a waste of money. I have it in my car only because the former owner just changed it for me before I bought it.
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Old 11-30-2016, 10:57 AM   #23
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Oil

What do you use?
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Old 11-30-2016, 11:29 AM   #24
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If I was just street driving in my Boxster, I would buy the Castrol 0W40 from Walmart and change it every 5,000 miles or every 6 months - I really like Castrol and run it in all my other vehicles.
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Old 11-30-2016, 12:39 PM   #25
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Just called L&N @ 815-472-2939

Said I was thinking about changing from Mobile1 to DT 40 5-40. He asked me about my car & engine. Here were my questions.
1. Would I need to do a flush with BR 40? He said not needed just change filter and get a good drain.
2. What is the recommended oil change interval? He said 5K or 6 months if you drive less than 5K a year. Some people change at 3K and if you like you could but really wasn’t a need.

Then called Driven Racing Oils @ 855-565-5650
Asked question # 1 and he suggested I speak with Scott in the technical development lab.

So, I asked Scott question 1 His answerer was the following.
“I am very familiar with the chemical structure of Mobile1. Being than DT & Mobile1 have the same base oil it is not a problem to change oil at an oil change. He said I can tell you how this comes about. If you change from an Esther based oil like Red-Line to Mobil1 or DT you would need to do a flush. If you do this without a flush you will get 40% decrease in Horse Power due the leakage on the Ring Seals and then folks think this oil stinks I’m going back to Red-Line.

Second question oil change interval? We recommend 5K for normal mixed street driving. If you driving is more at highway speeds and you wanted to extend beyond the 5K you could but wouldn’t go more than 7k.

Asked if I had any more questions and I not at this time and I appreciate him taking the time to help me make an informed decision. He said that’s why we’re here and call back if you have more questions.
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Old 11-30-2016, 03:04 PM   #26
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Gotta love oil threads!
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Old 11-30-2016, 03:13 PM   #27
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Thanks Jeff

Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA View Post
OK guys, cool your jets.

Switching to DT40 from another oil you have two choices: Do a "belt and suspenders" pre flush to remove every trace of the old oil, or just do a simple oil change and switch to the DT40.

We have many customers using the DT40, myself included, and none of the cars were pre flushed. To date, all of the UOA's look excellent.

And you really do not need to change your oil every 3K miles, 5K is just fine.
That is what I though as well. I will be changing this weekend hopefully. This will be my winter change and will probably have less than 2K miles when I do my summer change in April.
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Old 11-30-2016, 05:31 PM   #28
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Oil Thread fun times....

......I'm bored tonight, so I'll post more and keep this baby rolling.


Like I posted earlier, FWIW, I bought my 2004 Boxster S used, with 25,000 miles on her. I have no idea what oil the previous owner used. I have all of her service records, however, and she had EVERYTHING done at a Porsche dealership. So, I guess she was filled with Mobil 1.

I found the car in Chattanooga and drove her to my Louisiana home.

I immediately shipped the car to Jake at Flat 6 Innovations for the "IMS Solution" and other preventative maintenance.

I got the car back and she was filled with DT40.

I've put 13,500 miles on her since switching to DT40.

She went 5,000 miles, dropping only ONE quart on a vacation drive to Colorado with LOTS of WFO throttle up mountain passes crossing 10,000 feet multiple times.

The car is super strong, and the rings appear pretty freaking oil tight.

So, that's my experience, FWIW, YMMV, Yada, Yada..........




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Last edited by 10/10ths; 11-30-2016 at 05:34 PM.
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Old 11-30-2016, 06:08 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fanguy View Post
called Driven Racing Oils.....
If you change from an Esther based oil like Red-Line to Mobil1 or DT you would need to do a flush. If you do this without a flush you will get 40% decrease in Horse Power due the leakage on the Ring Seals and then folks think this oil stinks I’m going back to Red-Line.
Really??????
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Last edited by JayG; 11-30-2016 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 11-30-2016, 06:38 PM   #30
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Jay,

I truly appreciate you quoting me, maybe next time you could be more careful on the edit.

You referenced I called L&N and next was the response that was said from Driven and omitted the L&N response.


Here is the Driven response, cut & paste no edit.

“”Then called Driven Racing Oils @ 855-565-5650
Asked question # 1 and he suggested I speak with Scott in the technical development lab.
So, I asked Scott question 1 His answerer was the following.

“I am very familiar with the chemical structure of Mobile1. Being than DT & Mobile1 have the same base oil it is not a problem to change oil at an oil change. He said I can tell you how this comes about. If you change from an Esther based oil like Red-Line to Mobil1 or DT you would need to do a flush. If you do this without a flush you will get 40% decrease in Horse Power due the leakage on the Ring Seals and then folks think this oil stinks I’m going back to Red-Line.””

I have read about going from Mobil1to DT40 on several forums finding conflicting information. So I called L&N and DT40’s manufacture Driven to move beyond the conflicting info and Driven who should know if their oil needs a flush. According to Driven from Mobil1 to DT40 no flush required.

Thanks for a good laugh before going to bed.

Last edited by fanguy; 11-30-2016 at 07:13 PM.
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Old 11-30-2016, 07:54 PM   #31
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I fat fingered the quote, sorry
fixed it

The point I was making is them saying you would get a 40% reduction in HP if you didn't flush first if certain oils were in there because the ring seals would leak

sounds like BS to me.
Of course, I could be wrong

BTW, on LN website they say
"LN Engineering, aside from offering many products and services for both aircooled and watercooled Porsche models, devotes considerable resources to continued research and development, and most recently, partnering with Raby Engine Development again to develop Porsche-model specific lubricants.*"
"*For Porsche approved lubricant we use and recommend Motul 8100 X-Cess 5w40."

See for yourself
http://lnengineering.com/products/lubricants/joe-gibbs-racing-dt40-full-synthetic-5w40-european-sports-car-oil-12-quarts.html

and further
WHICH MOTOR OIL DO I (CHARLES NAVARRO) USE?
For cars under warranty, we use primarily Motul 8100 X-Cess 5w40, which is still a mid-SAPS oil with higher Zn and P levels than the low or no-SAPS oils favored by manufacturers for emissions system protection. Both used oil analysis and physical engine teardowns have proven this lubricant to be a superior choice to Mobil 1. Although we are still fans of Brad Penn, outside of warranty, we recommend Joe Gibbs Racing lubricants due to how closely they have worked with Flat 6 Innovations and us in developing their oils for use in Porsche models.

http://lnengineering.com/resources/2014/02/28/frequently-asked-questions-about-motor-oils/
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Last edited by JayG; 11-30-2016 at 08:13 PM.
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Old 12-02-2016, 03:43 AM   #32
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Here is a recent VOA for the DT40. As you can see, it is NOT a high ZDDP oil. About the same as Mobil 0W40. I've tried DT40 in two different Porsches, my 2006 987S and my 2014 991S. The results via multiple UOAs were just fine....but no better than Mobil 0W40. And worse than Red Line 5W40 in the case for my Boxster.

Since I was looking for a better result (than M1 0W40) I switched to the Mobil 5W50 that is Porsche A40 approved. I've had the best results so far with this oil, and have been using it for over 6 years now (and about 80,000 combined miles). Very easy to find now at Napa Auto Parts (on sale recently for about $6/quart).

Mobil 0W40 is a good oil. DT40 is slightly better. Mobil 5W50 is slightly better, again.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf DT-40 Virgin.pdf (56.8 KB, 175 views)
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Old 12-02-2016, 03:47 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA View Post
using the DT40, myself included,
Can you please post your most recent UOA from your car on the DT40? Thanks.
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Old 12-02-2016, 03:52 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by 10/10ths View Post
...




Great picture! I love driving in CO. I drove my very first Porsche in CO back in about 2004. An Artic Silver Boxster just like yours. Been Porsche hooked since. I plan to drive my 911 in CO in mid-2017 on my way home from Porsche Parade Salt Lake City.
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Old 12-02-2016, 05:34 AM   #35
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Can you please post your most recent UOA from your car on the DT40? Thanks.
I tend to go to great lengths to stay out of oil threads, as they usually lead to lead to arguments rather than resolution.

At the moment, I am not at my shop, so I do not have access to our data files; and as we live in a litigious society, and I happen to do business in a litigious state, I cannot publish any UOA's without the owner's written permission as they own the results, not my shop.

That said, Jake answered many specific questions about various UOA results on DT40 in a very long post over on Rennlist late last year that covered not only test results, but variations in testing labs data qualtiy, and even the impact of "cross pollination (not doing a flush before using DT40) Makes interesting reading: UOA with DT40 and a question or two. - Rennlist Discussion Forums

And, as I am sure you will note in reading his posts, nothing much got resolved there either.
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Old 12-02-2016, 06:09 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by JFP in PA View Post
I tend to go to great lengths to stay out of oil threads, as they usually lead to lead to arguments rather than resolution.

At the moment, I am not at my shop, so I do not have access to our data files; and as we live in a litigious society, and I happen to do business in a litigious state, I cannot publish any UOA's without the owner's written permission as they own the results, not my shop.

That said, Jake answered many specific questions about various UOA results on DT40 in a very long post over on Rennlist late last year that covered not only test results, but variations in testing labs data qualtiy, and even the impact of "cross pollination (not doing a flush before using DT40) Makes interesting reading: UOA with DT40 and a question or two. - Rennlist Discussion Forums

And, as I am sure you will note in reading his posts, nothing much got resolved there either.
I think you misunderstand my question. I'm only asking to see YOUR recent UOA. Not some random customer of your shop.
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Old 12-02-2016, 06:15 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by Flavor 987S View Post
I think you misunderstand my question. I'm only asking to see YOUR recent UOA. Not some random customer of your shop.
And as I noted above, I am not currently at my shop, and will not be for the next several days, so I cannot access that information. But to keep the dialog moving, I did provide a link to similar information.
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Old 12-02-2016, 06:21 AM   #38
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I am not currently at my shop, and will not be for the next several days
No rush. Please post next week. Thanks.
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Old 12-02-2016, 08:47 AM   #39
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Below is a copy of my Blackstone report for the last six years on the Boxster. I switched to DT40 in of January 2014 after 13 years of using Mobil One so the last two results are based on DT40 usage. However, I did not flush prior to the first fill.

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Old 12-02-2016, 12:39 PM   #40
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I've used DT40 since I bought my car at 90K. Didn't do a flush because I was told the base oil between the Mobil 1 and the DT40 is the same. I drive about 70+ miles a day, a signifigant potion of that time at 80+ mph on a toll road.

 photo DT40 oil data 142k.jpg

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