My (feels like a) new car!

[Meir]

Originally Posted by steved0x

The 996 takes the same arm all 4 corners, and is the same as 986 boxster fronts like you say. Outside of EPS/vertex and no name brands there is not

much available.

But... This part matches 997 rear arms, 99733104301 that is widely available both TRW and Meyle at around $100 each.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/clone-porsche-suspension-control-arm-911-37143017001

Looks like the price went up a little. Other vendors may have a better price.

I am running the TRW part on my car and can confirm it is a match. (I ordered Meyle and they sent TRW by mistake so I used them)

Steve

thanks steve.
that helps a lot.

[Meir]

anyone have experience with those guys?

Meyle Suspension Control Arm - AutoPartsWay.com

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by Anker

What I am really interested in knowing is whether the suspension needs to be loaded or unleaded when replacing the arm, and also whether it is possible to replace it without removing the brakes. On the diagrams it looks like it should be possible.

Thanks-Anker

You don't need to remove the brakes to do the rear track arms, or the front equivalents.

You may need to load/unload the suspension for two reasons:

1. To get the monoball end to line up in between where it needs to go so you can put the bolt it.
2. To get the fork end to line up with the LCA so it can slide over the LCA and get to the point where it can be bolted.

Theoretically, you wouldn't need to load/unload the suspension, because when the track arm is mounted, it can accommodate the extremes of the suspension movement, but in practice, it is very hard to get things to line up due to the stiffness of the monoball bushing.

Once you get under there and start fitting it together it is all very intuitive. After you do the first side, the second side will take like 10 minutes

[BruceH]

Originally Posted by Anker

What I am really interested in knowing is whether the suspension needs to be loaded or unleaded when replacing the arm, and also whether it is possible to replace it without removing the brakes. On the diagrams it looks like it should be possible.

Thanks-Anker

Yes, you need to load the suspension when you install the new arms, the arm will slip right in. No, you don't do anything with the brakes. You will need to remove the underbody panel for access. I ended up replacing those parts with new since mine were pretty chewed up. It is a pretty easy DIY and well worth it! Good luck

[RandallNeighbour]

I am running the Vertex poly bushing rebuilt arms at the moment and they're nowhere near as quiet as rubber bushing variants. The poly is stiff and I get a small rattle from them over bumps, even though they are not worn out at all.

At some point I will replace them with rubber bushing based arms to get the suspension as quiet as it probably was when it was a new car, which is now my goal.

[Meir]

Originally Posted by RandallNeighbour

I am running the Vertex poly bushing rebuilt arms at the moment and they're nowhere near as quiet as rubber bushing variants. The poly is stiff and I get a small rattle from them over bumps, even though they are not worn out at all.

At some point I will replace them with rubber bushing based arms to get the suspension as quiet as it probably was when it was a new car, which is now my goal.

well.. that puts an end to my internal debate.
thanks for the info Randall.

[dghii]

Originally Posted by steved0x

You don't need to remove the brakes to do the rear track arms, or the front equivalents.

You may need to load/unload the suspension for two reasons:

1. To get the monoball end to line up in between where it needs to go so you can put the bolt it.
2. To get the fork end to line up with the LCA so it can slide over the LCA and get to the point where it can be bolted.

Theoretically, you wouldn't need to load/unload the suspension, because when the track arm is mounted, it can accommodate the extremes of the suspension movement, but in practice, it is very hard to get things to line up due to the stiffness of the monoball bushing.

Once you get under there and start fitting it together it is all very intuitive. After you do the first side, the second side will take like 10 minutes

Its weird....I've replaced the track (trailing) arms three times while messing with them. I only had to load the suspension one time, on one side...that was the new drivers side one I did on Tuesday. I had the mono-ball started but could not quite get the hub end started.

For me, the key to doing this job quickly and easily is to use an impact wrench. I have an 18V wrench that loosens/tightens these bolts in nothing flat.