Wow - that looks like a mounting boss for a transmission mount. More info, please? Specifically, what modification(s) do you have which could have been a factor? (What aftermarket exhaust components, motor/trans mounts, etc., do you have?)
Maybe it's time to locate, and swap in, a good used transmission. I recently saw a very clean looking, supposedly good 5-speed being offered locally to me, I think for only $150!
I've tackled some projects like this that customers brought me to TIG weld repair (back when so was doing that), and usually even pulled them off successfully, but they are very challenging, and also somewhat risky. This would be *very* challenging to repair satisfactorily, without disassembly.
Regardless of how you fix this broken bracket, I'd recommend making an effort to figure out what the root cause was, and make sure to get that addressed, so the problem won't recur. Best of luck!
Well my opinion. Green Locktite doesn't work for ****************. Axle Shaft came loose from the flange off the transmission and the driveshaft pounded the transmission away to brake the weakest bracket on the Transmission. The others are like half an inch thick or thicker. This one is thin web. The axle shaft has come loose numerous times since I put it all back together. Ive cleaned the threads and used green locktite and this one keeps coming loose. Passenger side is fine. No mods except a 6 puck and headers, Stock catback. And I wasn't beating on it, just left a light. Must have been threaded out again and finally popped off while driving and the axle just slammed the mount.
As for welding, its doubtful if it can be welded well enough to hold down any mild torque. So we're going to develop a stiffening Bracket Mount to replace the factory mounts.
This should replace both mounts and bolt to the suspension "K Member" and half of the gearbox bolts. Which should also provide chassis stiffening.
I had a 6 speed that was broke just like yours. I had it tig welded back on and I sold it to a friend who now races with it. As far as I know he hasn't had any problems.
did you use the torque specs for the 5-speed M8 (39 Nm) or the torque specs for the 6 speed M10 (81 Nm) to torque the drive shaft? Makes a big difference.
If you have used the 5-speed torque for the 6-speed, don't blame the green Loctite.
Regards, Markus
Last edited by Smallblock454; 09-03-2016 at 10:32 AM.
I had a 6 speed that was broke just like yours. I had it tig welded back on and I sold it to a friend who now races with it. As far as I know he hasn't had any problems.
The guy that has the car told me it would probably not hold the torque so that's why I was developing that brace mount.
Once I tried finding some locally sourced cv joint bolts (for my 5-speed, after realizing after tearing into a suspension servicing project that some of the original ones that came with the car were buggared up by the previous mechanic) and the best I could locally source were a lower grade steel, in stock at a local independent auto mechanic. Those lower grade steel cv bolts (I think they may have been grade 10.9) could not take the full Porsche torque specs before yielding. New ones of the proper grade (12.9 grade, for the 5-speed bolts) could take the full torque, so these things really do get torqued right up to their yield point, and that's also probably why Porsche recommends replacing them with new each time. With proper torque, you won't need to use thread locking compound. Really sorry to hear about this issue; best of luck fixing!
I guess a brace couldn't hurt if you have the room. I had the trans out of the car and took it to a local fabrication shop but he could have welded it still on the car. Here's the boxster the trans is in.
The video is him on a test track but he really puts the car through more than anything you'll probably see. His car is the most tricked out race boxster that I know of. He's been running it for two years now and the tab hasn't broke yet.
I guess a brace couldn't hurt if you have the room. I had the trans out of the car and took it to a local fabrication shop but he could have welded it still on the car. Here's the boxster the trans is in.
The video is him on a test track but he really puts the car through more than anything you'll probably see. His car is the most tricked out race boxster that I know of. He's been running it for two years now and the tab hasn't broke yet.
Very cool car and great video!
__________________
1999 996 C2 - sold - bought back - sold for more
1997 Spec Boxster BSR #254
1979 911 SC
POC Licensed DE/TT Instructor
Here's one half of the brace. The next part will pinch and bolt to this brace and will be mounted between both control arm frames for suspension stiffening.
As OP stated, the driveshaft came loose while driving and smashed the mounting boss off. Nothing caused by power output. You can't design for those sorts of things.
2001 Porsche Boxster S
Linear Mode
