Drilling out easy out

[DWBOX2000]

Stupid question which way do I turn the tap. I would think clockwise but my track record is not so hot.

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by DWBOX2000

Stupid question which way do I turn the tap. I would think clockwise but my track record is not so hot.

Yeah clockwise. Then blow it out with some brake cleaner. Gently test fit the helicoil but just a turn or two. The red loctite that mother in there. Don't forget to knock the tab off the end of the helicoil after you set it. Wait a bit for the loctite to set and then proceed with your installation.

I would only tap as deep as your helicoil is long, (or just a touch deeper) and then install so the helicoil is flush with the surface. Edit: I just saw your post. Drill down to the depth of your bolt. But tap and set the helicoil flush with the surface and red loctite it in so it is permanently installed, flush to the surface. Shouldn't have to cut the bolt.

Also did you get my pm, I have an extra stud for the brake bracket, send me your address and I will send it to you if you want to go the stud approach for that one.

[Xpit77]

Originally Posted by DWBOX2000

Stupid question which way do I turn the tap. I would think clockwise but my track record is not so hot.

Righty tighty lefty loosey. Sorry couldnt help it.
Normally you shouldn`t use anti-seize if the faster has a specific torque value but 7.5 sure.

[jcslocum]

Originally Posted by Xpit77

Normally you shouldn't use anti-seize if the faster has a specific torque value but 7.5 sure.

What?? Where did this info come from?

[stephen wilson]

Originally Posted by jcslocum

What?? Where did this info come from?

Anti-seize can change the installed bolt tension greatly, the increased lubricity can lead to an over-torqued fastener, or bolt breakage. IIRC the rule of thumb is to lower the torque wrench setting something like 50% vs. bolt installed dry. Oil has a similar but lesser effect.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by stephen wilson

Anti-seize can change the installed bolt tension greatly, the increased lubricity can lead to an over-torqued fastener, or bolt breakage. IIRC the rule of thumb is to lower the torque wrench setting something like 50% vs. bolt installed dry. Oil has a similar but lesser effect.

Sorry, but that is not remotely correct. To assure you obtain the correct torque settings, and the targeted clamping force, the fasteners (including washers) should be lubricated. This is particularly important in torque to yield applications like the flywheel bolts. Optimal repeatable results can be obtained using something like ARP's Ultra Torque compound, but in cases of dissimilar metals where later corrosion and thread galling is likely to occur, an anti seize compound should be used. When using a lubricant, no change in the torque wrench settings should be used, just apply the recommended torque.

If you want to see more information on the subject, check out ARP's website, they have an extensive white paper on what actually happens to the resulting torque (and clamping force) repeatability with and without lubrication, with vastly more data then you will probably ever need.

[stephen wilson]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Sorry, but that is not remotely correct. To assure you obtain the correct torque settings, and the targeted clamping force, the fasteners (including washers) should be lubricated. This is particularly important in torque to yield applications like the flywheel bolts. Optimal repeatable results can be obtained using something like ARP's Ultra Torque compound, but in cases of dissimilar metals where later corrosion and thread galling is likely to occur, an anti seize compound should be used. When using a lubricant, no change in the torque wrench settings should be used, just apply the recommended torque.

If you want to see more information on the subject, check out ARP's website, they have an extensive white paper on what actually happens to the resulting torque (and clamping force) repeatability with and without lubrication, with vastly more data then you will probably ever need.

We're talking about two different applications, I agree that critical fasteners are always specified with OIL, or specially formulated lubrication like ultra-torque. We were discussing "generic" body fasteners, which all torque charts list as "clean and dry" threads. As compared to that specification, oil will slightly lessen the required torque, but anti-sieze has a fairly large effect. Notice on the attached chart the the torque with A/S is reduced by 1/3. Once you start talking about old or damaged/corroded fasteners, it's hard to arrive at accurate torque values, there's just too many variables.
http://www.alliedsystems.com/pdf/Wagner/Forms/80/80-1057.pdf

[Gelbster]

Originally Posted by jcslocum

What?? Where did this info come from?

Lubricating Threads