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Old 06-23-2016, 08:06 AM   #1
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Break pads

I want to attempt to change my brake pads for the first time on my 00 S and researching on youtube it appears to be straight forward on how to change these out. So my question is can I buy OEM pads at my local auto parts stores ( Auto Zone, Advance Auto ) or should I go to the dealer to buy them? I don't want to buy junk and I'm not sure what is on the car now so is OEM pads ok or should I upgrade? My car is just a cruiser and not tracked.

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Old 06-23-2016, 08:28 AM   #2
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Go to ********************************.com, you will find multiple options that suit your requirements and prices are much cheaper than dealer, same OEM parts. I bought my pads on Amazon (Akebono) - better quality than OEM and less brake dust.

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Old 06-23-2016, 08:30 AM   #3
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OEM brand for brake pads is Texar. Order from Pelican, they're cheaper than dealer even with PCA discount.
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Old 06-23-2016, 08:32 AM   #4
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Regardless if you 'track' the car or just cruise, brakes are far more important than how fast a car will go. No brakes and you're dead or worse yet, someone else is dead. When I retired from Law Enforcement, I went to work as a consultant for Performance Friction Brakes. They make a fabulous brake pad and interestingly enough, many race teams use their pads and rotors. If you can find them locally, they make a great addition to your car. Here's their web site: Performance Friction - Brake Pads, Rotors and Calipers for Racing, Street and Fleet Applications
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Old 06-23-2016, 09:00 AM   #5
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I want to attempt to change my brake pads for the first time on my 00 S and researching on youtube it appears to be straight forward on how to change these out. So my question is can I buy OEM pads at my local auto parts stores ( Auto Zone, Advance Auto ) or should I go to the dealer to buy them? I don't want to buy junk and I'm not sure what is on the car now so is OEM pads ok or should I upgrade? My car is just a cruiser and not tracked.
Just did mine on my '02 S.

I found it easier to remove the caliper first because the shims fit into the Brembo pistons and are glued to the pad. If you try to force them out, I think you're going to mar the red paint. Just remove the 2 10mm hex screws after first undoing the small hex head that holds the brake line to the knuckle. Then you can swing the caliper out and the pads will drop right in your hand (after removing the retaining pin and spring). Next, use a sharp tool (I used an old wood chisel) to get the shims off for re-use.
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Old 06-23-2016, 09:09 AM   #6
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No need to remove the calipers. If fact its not a good idea to remove the calipers unless you have to.

Just use a small metal putty knife (about 1.5" wide) and slip it between the pad and the shim.
It will require a little force the first time.
Once you separate the pads from the shims, the pads just pull out easily

Once you have changed pads once, it takes longer to jack up the car and remove the wheels than it takes to replace the pads
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Old 06-23-2016, 10:14 AM   #7
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Mintex. Cheapest pads that are oem and they have a better coefficient of friction than the very expensive brembos the dealers sell.
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Old 06-23-2016, 04:59 PM   #8
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No need to remove the calipers. If fact its not a good idea to remove the calipers unless you have to.

Just use a small metal putty knife (about 1.5" wide) and slip it between the pad and the shim.
It will require a little force the first time.
Once you separate the pads from the shims, the pads just pull out easily

Once you have changed pads once, it takes longer to jack up the car and remove the wheels than it takes to replace the pads
....or remove 2 screws and don't risk marring the red paint. Why is it "not a good idea"? That makes no sense. I removed all 4 in minutes, was able to wipe them down of brake dust front, back, and bottom, reinstalled them and torque to 67 ft-lb with minimal effort.
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Old 06-23-2016, 05:15 PM   #9
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....or remove 2 screws and don't risk marring the red paint. Why is it "not a good idea"? That makes no sense. I removed all 4 in minutes, was able to wipe them down of brake dust front, back, and bottom, reinstalled them and torque to 67 ft-lb with minimal effort.
its completely unnecessary and potentially you could damage the brake lines
Additional IIRC, you are supposed to replace the bolts once you take them out.


How are you going to mar the paint if you don't remove the caliper?
I use a pair of channelocks to spread the pads and use a small carpet scrap to protect the caliper.
You are more likely to scratch the paint removing the calipers than leaving them in place.

It takes about 2 minutes to replace the pads tops.
I have replaced or swapped pads about 10 times in the last 2 years and haven't scratched the caliper paint.

I have never heard of anyone removing the calipers to replace pads on a modern Porsche.

The only time you need to remove the calipers is to rebuild them or replace a rotor
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Old 06-23-2016, 06:11 PM   #10
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its completely unnecessary and potentially you could damage the brake lines
Additional IIRC, you are supposed to replace the bolts once you take them out.
+1 Correct. Yes, it only takes a minute or two to remove the caliper bolts but they are "officially" one time use only and are supposed to be replaced each time they are removed.
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Old 06-23-2016, 06:57 PM   #11
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Red Stuff

I have these on my Boxster and my E36 and have had great luck with them....almost no dust

Redstuff Ceramic Brake Pads

I didn't know you were supposed to use the caliber bolts only once.....I reused mine when doing my bearing job last year.

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Old 06-23-2016, 08:02 PM   #12
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Redstuff is a really good street pad that you can track.
I uses them as my street pads
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Old 07-09-2016, 01:28 PM   #13
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I did my first brake job ever today and it was on my Boxster. I have to say it was very easy to do and it all went very smooth. I bought Textar's from ****************************************, the prices were very reasonable. The funny thing is I called my mechanic for the hell of it just to see what he would charge for brake pad replacements and he said it would be between $400-$800. Crazy! Its true I spent more time jacking the car up and yanking the wheels off then it took to do the brakes. Don't pay somebody to do this kind easy of work.
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Old 07-09-2016, 03:43 PM   #14
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What do you use to siphon some brake fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir when you replace pads? I just had my brake fluid flushed and refilled. Will need front pads soon and some brake fluid is gong to have to go.
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Old 07-09-2016, 04:15 PM   #15
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What do you use to siphon some brake fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir when you replace pads? I just had my brake fluid flushed and refilled. Will need front pads soon and some brake fluid is gong to have to go.
Turkey baster...
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Old 07-09-2016, 04:25 PM   #16
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I didn't need siphon any fluid out. The max level in the reservoir still has some room for the fluid to rise when pushing the old pads back to allow the thickness of the new pads. I did the backs first then pumped the pedal then I did the fronts. Level is perfect now after road test.
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Old 07-10-2016, 02:03 PM   #17
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Nice

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I didn't need siphon any fluid out. The max level in the reservoir still has some room for the fluid to rise when pushing the old pads back to allow the thickness of the new pads. I did the backs first then pumped the pedal then I did the fronts. Level is perfect now after road test.
I needed to have my brake fluid flushed and bled for my HDPE next week. my front pads are still at 1/2 thickness and will need to be changed sometime soon. I'm not sure my reservoir will hold the extra fluid since it's at the max line and new front pads will be twice as thick. We'll see!
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Old 07-10-2016, 06:36 PM   #18
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Just use a turkey baster if you need to suck out some fluid.
Be sure to have a rag or paper towel ready so no fluid drips on the paint

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