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Old 03-31-2016, 12:18 PM   #1
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Did I destroy my clutch?

I got trapped in a weird construction zone, bumper to bumper, going up a steep hill. It was move half a car length, then wait 10 seconds, repeat for about a block and a half. The car did not like this, and at the end I saw and smelled smoke.

Have I done serious damage to my clutch?

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Old 03-31-2016, 12:21 PM   #2
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Did it smell like hot brakes after a few hard laps? If so, your clutch is probably on it's way out. There could also be damage to the flywheel. Here's hoping for the best. Good luck.
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Old 03-31-2016, 12:31 PM   #3
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Sigh. Yes, it had that smell to it.
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Old 03-31-2016, 01:13 PM   #4
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Since we don't know how you use your clutch, high revs slipping to hold on hill? It possibly just got hot, not terminal but could glaze the friction.
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Old 03-31-2016, 01:38 PM   #5
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I tried both: starting from dead stop; and keeping the revs up to stand in place. For future reference, which is better in that situation?

My indie shop says approximately 1800 for clutch only. 2900 for clutch and flywheel. Are those typical prices?
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Old 03-31-2016, 01:49 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finnegan View Post
I tried both: starting from dead stop; and keeping the revs up to stand in place. For future reference, which is better in that situation?

My indie shop says approximately 1800 for clutch only. 2900 for clutch and flywheel. Are those typical prices?
Don't use the clutch to hold the car on a hill, that is what the brakes are for, and brakes are easier and cheaper to replace than clutches and flywheels.
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Old 03-31-2016, 02:14 PM   #7
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I use the park brake to hold the car in place on hills. Never deliberately slip the clutch.
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Old 03-31-2016, 03:00 PM   #8
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My indie shop says approximately 1800 for clutch only. 2900 for clutch and flywheel. Are those typical prices?
Those prices are in the ballpark.
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Old 03-31-2016, 03:30 PM   #9
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Thanks. Expensive lesson learned.
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Old 03-31-2016, 04:38 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finnegan View Post
I tried both: starting from dead stop; and keeping the revs up to stand in place. For future reference, which is better in that situation?

My indie shop says approximately 1800 for clutch only. 2900 for clutch and flywheel. Are those typical prices?
now that your car has sat for a while and cooled down, how does it drive? Normal? Don't change it till you have to.
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Old 03-31-2016, 04:45 PM   #11
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now that your car has sat for a while and cooled down, how does it drive? Normal? Don't change it till you have to.
Yes, this happened a few weeks ago. I have noticed (I think) that the clutch is slipping a little bit, and has less 'play' than it used to. Other than that, it's driving fine.
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Old 03-31-2016, 04:52 PM   #12
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Don't forget to do the IMS and RMS while you're in there for the clutch. Especially being an '04 model.
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Old 03-31-2016, 04:57 PM   #13
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If it starts slipping noticeably, get the clutch and flywheel replaced. I'd recommend a dual mass flywheel. For future reference, holding the clutch halfway out and using it to stay stationary on a hill will burn it out very quickly. By doing that you're essentially using the clutch in the same way that a brake works. This means that the clutch is slipping on the flywheel, whereas normally it's either completely engaged, not slipping, or completely disengaged, also not slipping. Use the brake or handbrake for hills.
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Old 04-01-2016, 09:57 AM   #14
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What are the advantages of a dual mass flywheel?
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Old 04-01-2016, 10:14 AM   #15
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Harmonic dampening. Lots written about this. This is probably already in your car.
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Old 04-03-2016, 12:00 PM   #16
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If you can turn a wrench, and are brave enough, you can do it yourself for a LOT less. You can get the Luk dm flywheel and clutch for about $750 from Rock auto. The Luk kits use the same Sachs parts that Porsche used. As mentioned before, you'll also want to do the IMS and RMS (and maybe the Air/oil separator) at the same time.

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Old 04-03-2016, 12:33 PM   #17
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Wow , thanks for that info....this is in my future as well
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Old 04-03-2016, 02:12 PM   #18
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Heel and toe also works for steep hill launches, not just for rev matching downshifting.

When you are stuck in traffic on a steep hill, use the brake to keep you from rolling back, don't slip the clutch! When you want to move forward, keep the toe of your right foot on the brake, use the heel of your foot to raise the rpms and at the same time start letting the clutch out slowly. The rpms wiil drop and at that point the clutch is grabbing so take your toe off the brake and just do a normal launch. You won't slide back at all if you get it right.
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Old 04-03-2016, 02:26 PM   #19
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Slipping the clutch will wear it faster but as long as its not slipping, you are good for now.
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Old 04-03-2016, 08:51 PM   #20
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I did my clutch. Easy.

You won't believe how thin a clutch disc is for these cars.

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