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1st Boxster 7th Porsche, we now have 4 in the family
My daughter picked up a 2000 Boxster about 1 month ago to replace her '86-944 daily
driver. We are in NY and she's in DC and the car was in Queens, so I went down, looked at it and made a deal for it. It was DIRT cheap ~$3000 for a running driving Boxster. This is a very tatty ratty car. The paint is terrible from a tarp being on it for months, tied loosely and micro scratched the hell out of every panel. It has some dents and bumps, along with being keyed on a few places, the worst on the drivers door. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps6h4oeh2o.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psy7df3ams.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psq031myks.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...pscvllnr8s.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psikf4lmxl.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...pskfvne9fl.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...pshyvsfryi.jpg The 2nd previous owner had the top rod ends break with the top down and couldn't figure out how to pull it up. He parked it and put the blue harbor fright tarp on it and left it. Well, it didn't take long before the UV and local kids sliced the tarp and the car got rained on. This destroyed the alarm system and made the car a non runner. It was picked up by the 1-PO and repairs were started; alarm, ECU, ignition switch and key were all found used as as set and replaced. At the same time the car received a full brake rebuild; rotors calipers, pads and flush. The engine got new plugs, tubes, 3 new coils, cam position sensors, battery and a few other bits to make it a good runner. When I got there to look at it, it wouldn't start. Not good for negotiating and making a sale! It seemed like it was out of fuel , so I went and got 5 gallons but still no fire. We didn't hear a fuel pump running so that was looked into and it was determined that the pump relay had given up and that was replaced. The car started up instantly and ran pretty good but not smooth with a few pops thru the intake or exhaust. Now that it was a runner, I took it for a quick drive in the city, no plates, no insurance no brains.... Ran pretty good but I knew the computer was going to take time to relearn proper running settings. Nothing electric worked, nothing. No dash, no windows, no locks, no lights, NADA. Interior was thrashed and the seats needed to be replaced. Overall the interior looked like a Mongoose and Badger had been fighting in it!! But, under it all I figured there was a decent car at the right price. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps5b3nmbgr.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psapegkm7w.jpg I sat and figured what it would need to make it a runner and a 10 footer on the exterior. This would move my daughter up to a 15 year old car from a 30 year old car, convertible top and one of the sweetest handling cars ever. She was paying for everything, so done on the cheep (Yankee raised) I figured $1500 should make it decent and reliable. The last PO had put about $1500 in parts into it already and the car had good bones, so she ran a car fax and bought it...Cheep. Obvious absolute first needs: Tires, Seats, Top Fixed and MANY electrical parts. Optional needs: IMS, Clutch (unknown age), interior bits and bobs, new muffler from Top Speed, new rear lights as one was broken. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psmnem6btl.jpg Tires ordered over labor day on sale from Discount Tires Direct. Woody (itsnotanova) supplied many of the electrical and interior bits for an AMAZING low price and delivered FAST to NY. Buy from him if you need parts, OK! So the work began. Got the top fixed with used rods from Woody along with the new plastic ball ends from Source it on Ebay. This got the top working 100% but revealed the windows were not working right. The windows are complicated to understand but after much research, a new drivers regulator and some adjustment, they were goo 100% too. I pulled the dash and found that it wasn't plugged in!! all 3 plugs were just laying in there, plugged all in and wonder of wonders, that dash now worked! Central locking, not so much. Fiddled with that and gave up. Hey, she has a key to unlock the door :-) I had the console out to recover the all messed up ( Mongoose & Badger death match) rubbery coating with Plasti-Dip spray and see if that was going to look good and last. Upon installing the console and plugging in the wires that connect to it and the cubby lock, well the central locking started to work 100%. It was the 3 wire plug to the cubby lock that was keeping it from working!! Now most electrical issues were sorted, top was working beautifully, locking was working, engine running better ( a few quick rides around the area. Country livin; no police!), time to get busy on the exterior. Ordered touch up paint from automotive in Arena Red and began the slow process of filling the HUGE key marks in the door and other areas. 3-4 coats with color and then fill the rest up to level with clear to give it a near factory look. Wet sand back to level, fill some small areas with more clear and polish. Well the paint is really hard and using my orbital, a hard pad and some heavy compound, the paint is just beautiful!! Of course this reveals more defects and so the process begins again, fill color and clear, sand polish. We were hoping to get it to a 10 footer in appearance, but the excellent quality of paint Porsche used at the factory and a really good polisher we look to get it to a 5 footer. This is a MASSIVE improvement over the paint on day 1. New seats in Black not Beige have been bought from a forum member; Thanks Ed!!! Parts for the clutch and IMS had arrived, so it was time to move the Box into the garage and get it up on the lift for some major heart surgery. Pictures and more of the story to come later. Uploads are going VERY slow today :-( |
Great story! I am sure that you'll have a big following on this project. Post up some pic's when you can, we'd all love to see what you started with!
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Since your daughter is in DC, you may find this seller a convenient source for parts: Parting Out - 1998 Porsche Boxster 986
However, I would hate to take any business away from Woody. |
New rear lights:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps9yfsk5ip.jpg Big key scratch in door getting filled. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psfkxwmrod.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psowlnjeop.jpg Washed and Clayed but not polished http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psxkhnvilt.jpg Polished not waxed yet. Need to do the full car first: http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psnlsfdomi.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psrcylcp0q.jpg More to come as I get the pics uploaded. Bad internet day here in the sticks!! |
Nice work. Looks like your daughter will end up with a nice Boxster for very used Honda Accord money.
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Ditto..........
Nice work! There's just something about seeing someone rescuing these cars fromthe crusher that makes me feel good. :cheers: to you, sir!
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I'm loving this car already!
I did my own rat-rescue last year and still driving it with 151,000 on the dial and still kicking. ;) I look forward to the updates and stories on this one. She's looking great! |
I love projects like this.
Have fun, don't get frustrated and post lots of pictures about what you are doing! :cheers: |
Great story. You need to find a guy gutting a 986 and just buy the entire interior., carpets and all. It's amazing what a full compound and polish will do to old tired paint. Great story and turn out. i guess boosters are now barn finds.
Great post. |
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Here are some more small projects that have been done when frustrated getting the electrics to work or waiting for parts to come.
Interior all messed up filthy, even the small stuff! http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psfttbbrb5.jpg Barb, Allie's mom and resident seamstress and all around renaissance gal, covered the arm rest and handle cover in leather. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psjwxceizh.jpg We all think the Boxster has some weak styling cues, so in order to add a bit of excitment to what I think are some boring slab sides with too much Arena Red, I painted the vent grills to match the wheels. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps2m9tzu9f.jpg A small thing, but it adds a bit of visual interest and color. I also have polished up the very cloudy/milky headlights and we will add the smoked side marker lights too. The orange doesn't go well with the red. I have some light window tint and will try this on the front orange areas to see if that helps... You never know and I had it laying around. I also fixed the cubby cover hinge. The hinge was snapped off and I thought it was part of the lid, so when I ordered on from Woody to replace the cover that had been shredded in the vermin death match, that I would get the hinge too. Well, no, that NOT how it works, the hinge is part of the console! Luckily Porsche make a nice hinge repair kit that is very well thought out and is quite easy to install. http://type911shop.co.uk/WebRoot/Sto...96206_x800.jpg A new metal hinge is good. 10 minutes to install and the cubby is all fixed! The ignition switch was also acting up. Everything operated properly )once Igit things working from other issues) but it didn't return from the start position to the ON position and when the key was pulled out, the bell sometimes continued to ding. I pulled the dashboard vent and the duct out and it then took about 5 minutes to replace. Right hand in the duct hole and one hand up from under the dash. I used a small flat edged screw driver bit in a 1/4" drive ratchet and the screws backed out very easily. Pop new switch in, and Audi switch for something like 7 bucks, and tighten up again with the ratchet. Getting and using small screwdriver in there and then rotating it was just too much work!! http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...pszszpwes3.jpg New ignition switch works like it should and might have fixed some other issues I didn't even know about... yet. The headlights were working except for the low beams. Well I thought this was going to be the rotary light switch, so one of the goodies Woody had sent me was a new (used) working switch. Well, that wasn't the problem! Some PO had installed HID lamps and the rest of that stuff and both were burned out!! Who would have figured both would go bad. I only figured this out fully once I pulled the headlights and started checking the plug for voltage. 2 new H7 bulbs and we were back in business with lights! A full interior would have busted the budget of $1500 and as a cheep yank, that just isn't done unless it's a critical mission or safety part. Most of the interior has cleaned up exceptionally well and new seats will be the only thing needed. Porsche uses good quality stuff inside except for the rubbery crap and the sticky radio knobs. The next post will be about the IMS replacement that was done this weekend. |
Fantastic! Your daughter is a lucky girl, almost as lucky as this Boxster! Great to see a car like this go to a good home:cheers:
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How the heck did someone let a fairly modern car get that out of shape?
And who were these kids that did all this damage? ISIS recruits? Good lord... I'm curious to see what you come up with on the cloudy headlight lenses. I had to replace one of mine and now they don't match, the older one has a developed light greenish 'eye lid'. I'm hesitant to spend more $400 on used parts like. |
I'm the lucky dad!! She's a great gal and has been my garage buddy since a baby. We have 4 girls and they can all change a tire but Allie is a real gearhead. She has an instagram account @theporschegirl where she updates some of the work she does. She's a little bit famous on Pelican for building her own 3.4 engine for her hot rod '76 911.
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psfeosu2iw.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...pssocdm6ry.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psdhzmqfqu.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psklagtar2.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psyug7qssl.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psj5m6k6lr.jpg She is also an excellent welder with TIG, MIG and Gas. She does all of her own maintenance on her 944 too and helps me with my projects by doing all of the welding. If the car was in better shape and in DC she would be doing all of the work. But I have the time and she has the small budget, so the work gets done here for now. The car was parked on the street in Brooklyn so the kids are just local kids with an easy target that didn't move and the owner didn't care about. Sad but true and it worked in our favor. There are not many cars that can be bought this cheap, have so much potential and intrinsic value. She will keep it for a few years, sell it on and try to move up to a Cayman or 911 as DD and keep her 911 as a play car. The downside to this is that it makes dating quite hard!! She meets guys that want to talk cars and they tell her about the new LED washer nozzles, Soup Can muffler and huge stereo amps and she has to bite her tongue and not talk about building engines and welding on cars. It's a bit intimidating for guys her age..... |
Work on the Boxster continued this past weekend. Time to replace the IMS bearing as it was an unknown and no risks will be taken. Pulled the muffler out and 1/2 of the bolts broke off as well as a shower of dirt and road stuff fell from all around. Wear safety glasses when working on the ultra HEAVY muffler!! Got out my hex bit and removed the CV joint bolts with a 12" extension and my wonderful 3/8" cordless Milwaukee impact gun. Zip, Zip,Zip and they were out. No sweat.
Tried to drain the trans oil before dropping it but it has a stupid security triple square drain plug!!! Who thought this was a good idea?? Triple square is rare enough in that size but a security tool is needed too?? Really? Have kids been stealing boxster trans plugs?? Do folks just take them out for fun like the do restroom stalls? This genius idea had me putting quarters in the swear jar and caused a trip to the store to buy one. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psx34u4agk.jpg I found what I needed with about 1 inch of dust on it, hanging on a peg board over where the store cat sleeps. Got home, drained oil, made a mess, put more quarters in the swear jar, took apart the shift linkage. Shift linkage was sloppy due to the pivot pin at the back being loose in the bracket. 122K of shifting had caused the staking of crimp they out on the part to wiggle and allow lots of movement. I re-staked it and it was once again nice and tight. I lubed up the pins and got it back together. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psk6a2mhve.jpg I like to fix this stuff as I go so It doesn't get left to the last minute or skipped altogether. Bad memory and all that :-) Time to drop the trans but first had to make a support for the engine. I was not going to use a jack stand to hold the engine up. I wanted to use the lift to drop the car, pull the trans on a cart and then lift the car to remove. I had some stuff laying around that worked perfectly. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psqftepu3u.jpg Unbolt the trans mounts and begin pulling the trans bolts, except for the easy to reach 2 on each side. I once again run into the same genius that designed the drain plug as he has used a single triple square bolt to hold 1 position on the trans too!!! At least it wasn't a security style bolt head. I happen to have this smaller size in the tool box BUT it's so tight that it won't fit. My bit needs to be cut down to fit, so grab the grinder with a thin disc and get blacksmithing. Once out, I call my better 7/8ths to come and run the lift as I will be struggling under the car to get the trans disengaged. Cart in position, lift dropping, trans sitting on piece of plywood and we run right into Herr bolt doofus again!! One position has a stud thru a hole in the engine. This limits the amount of shaking and pushing you can do, which makes the trans much harder to get loose and pull back. After a few more deposits into the swear jar, the trans pops loose and the car is lifted away. Trans is sitting on "Ike" may favorite tool cart :-) http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psdzy9jut0.jpg Ike is a great helper. He can hold a light just where I want it, can take up to 300 lbs. on his back and not get tired, he doesn't take breaks, get tired or drink my beer. The only downside is he's a mute and does not contribute to the swear jar which is my beer money. Trans out of the way, pull the pressure plate and get a look at the clutch. Clutch looks just OK, has a manufacturing date of 2009 but when measured it about 0.045 thou thinner than a new disc. I'm not doing all of this work to put a more the 50% worn clutch back in. I'm a cheep yank but value my time more than that. We had a new clutch in already so it was no loss or added expense. I got to looking at the flywheel and it has more movement than I wanted to see and I'm not super familiar with the dual mass flywheels. I went to the google and found that 15mm is the wear limit at the outer edge. I made some marks and measure it to be about 25mm movement total. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psenmliaaq.jpg Now this wasn't in the budget! These bugger are expensive, so I found a slightly used one on fleabay for $50 and it was one state away, so it could get here quick. made the buy and it should be here tomorrow. On to the bearing part of the story. |
Nice work.
How did the transmission mount look? Most are shot at this stage but yours may have been replaced at some point. You may want to replace it anyways since you are already in there. Just trying to help you spend your money/save work later. |
Trans mounts seem ok. No oil leaks and no tears in the rubber, The engine mount on the other hand is SHOT. We have the new bushing to go in after trans gets back in.
On to the Infamous bearing!! Impact gun to take off the Flywheel and this reveals a bone dry rear main seal. I like this and we do have a new one but I will leave well enough alone. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps9kcpkv4d.jpg IMS cover is also dry, wonder what that means. Pull the cover and get assaulted buy very foul smelling oil. It's really BAD!! What a stink. Missus 7/8ths comes out and asks what died in the shop. I tell her it must be a rotting bearing hidden away in here... This is where my really cheep Yankee nature hits head on with a bit of talent and cleverness. I'm just not buying a bearing puller for a couple of hundred bucks. I'm sorry but that is just how it is. I try to buy the BEST tools I can find for my hobby but I can't do it. So, I got my new bearing and did some measuring and found that a pipe of 2" ID will allow the bearing to be pulled and fit onto the shoulder of the shaft. I picked up some 8mm threaded rod and what are called "coupling" nuts. These nuts are for joining threaded rod and are about 8 times taller than a regular nut. So, armed with my $2.79 piece of 2" ID exhaust pipe, $3 worth of threaded rod, 80 cents worth of coupling nuts I have a IMS bearing puller. After seeing the cover I know that our 2000 has the double row bearing and I have my doubts that this will work with the wire ring they use as a keeper on the OD if the bearing. But, I have about 6 bucks invested and know I can make it heavier if I have a failure. I will admit that this was not 100% plug and play puller time. The bearing stud is an 8mm fine thread, while the nut is 8mm coarse. No biggie tho, I yank out my 8mm 1.0 tap and rethread the coupling nut on one side. This is what it looks like: http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psj4houks3.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps3v2czhjq.jpg A simple tool with some discarded steel and some washers. Install the coupling nut onto the bearing stud first, then thread the rod on and build the puller onto it. Lube up the threaded rod coupling nut to keep the friction low. I used a moly paste that I have laying around. It's the same gunk used in the CV joints, very slippery stuff. Perfect for this application. Center the puller in int hole on the shaft shoulder and begin the tightening process. It takes a bit to load everything up but eventually it will get quite hard to turn. This is when you go get a drink refill and let the load sit there. Come back after 3-5 minutes and tighten it up some more. Lets it sit with the load on there. My next step was to loosen the puller fully and then tighten again. I have learned this over the years that is takes time under load as well as the dropping of the load to break the corrosion and bond that the 2 metal parts have formed. On the second tightening sequence, I get up to about the same load and POP the bearing comes loose. I continue to crank away at a very low load until the bearing comes free of the shaft. Now I have really let the stink out!! Holy COW does this stuff smell bad!!! I put my finger into the shaft to get some of the oil and it/s stinky, sludgy, thick and a bit gritty. It's BAD stuff. I clean all that mess out and get ready to do the install. I had placed my bearing in the freezer with the aluminum install driver mounted. I wrapped a rag around it so my hand wont begin to warm it when I pull it for the 8 second walk to the garage. I grab the trusty heat gun and begin heating the IMS at the 8, 4 and 12 o'clock positions for about 20 seconds each. When I started the shaft was 62 degrees as measure by a laser thermometer. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...pscyp4iotf.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...pswkgtytng.jpg When the shaft reached a temp of 170 in all 3 places, about 4 minutes, I shut down the heat and quickly trotted to the freezer for my bearing, grabbed it and ran back out to the shop. I introduced Mr. Bearing to Mr Shaft and the bearing slid right in. NO hammering required. Like is was greased up with butter! My freezer had gotten it down to -3 degrees over the 24 hours it was in there. The temp difference allowed for a clear fit and then as soon as the temps equalized, the bearing was locked in place. I had followed instruction to quickly apply some Loctite to the OD of the bearing. Some grease on the the cover seal and that was mounted and I used the 3 bolts to bring it fully into position and then torque everything up properly. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...pshhriqyy4.jpg I used an EPS roller bearing for this application. I like the roller design here where the radial loads are high and the ability to oil feed it. They make a nice complete kit with bearing, bolts, driver, oil pump shaft, sharpened punch to pop a 3mm hole in the oil cover and good instructions. I'm not interested in a bearing Jihad over what is better. This is what I choose for my own reasons, some revealed here. I don't care if you use a toilet paper roll to replace yours. It's your car, you do with it as you please. Now I wait for the flywheel to arrive to begin the assembly process. Probably tomorrow night. Thanks for reading....so far :-) |
This is a great read - more!
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Yeah, please keep it coming. I'm riveted!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Riveted??? I think you have to read more or get out more :-)
Bearing Autopsy and some other random thoughts... So bearing is out and has been living in a septic tank for a while. It smells bad. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psxbhfat9e.jpg Simple double row ball bearing with plastic outer seals. The bearing turns nice and smooth, no feeling of a gritty nature. I popped the seals out and there is ZERO grease inside and the balls are a bit "brown-ish" so you know that have been running with the gunky oil inside for a while. If you look to the 2-3 o'clock position, you can see the wire ring that is used as a keeper to hold the bearing in it's proper location. There is a bevel or lead on the shaft to shrink the keeper into the groove in the bearing OD and then it pops out into the groove in the shaft when you install it, staying somewhat centered to hold the bearing from drifting AND holding the shaft in place as well via the bearing stud. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps6e9kmqiv.jpg Not a good situation! My thinking on the gunky oil is that it just sits in the shaft hollow and cooks. When I loosened the nut on the original bearing, the stud part was sucked into the shaft with a pop. This was a surprise and it took a bit of time with a magnet to fish it back out thru the bearing to mount the puller. The heating and cooling if the air in the hollow is what sucks the oil in and because it can hold a good vacuum while cold the oil isn't getting out. So it sits in there, getting heated and re-heated and the volatiles just get cooked out and ruins the oil. When it's hot, I guess some of the oil gets pushed out into the bearing melting the grease and putting in some grit. this cycle just continues and when the oil is changed, this cooked oil can't drain out. The shaft hollow was not full but had maybe 1/2" of gunky oil in it. If I had been thinking way in advance, I could have caught a bunch of this oil and sent it out to Blackstone for analysis. This might have been interesting data to see and digest. When getting ready and doing the disassembly, taking the 2 chain tensioners out of the engine. This is a 5 chain engine so you remove the chain tensioner on the pass side that goes in vertically and the IMS chain tensioner on the drivers side that goes in horizontally. The tensioner for the IMS chain did NOT pop out upon removal! The vertical tensioner nearly shot out, so I sat and looked at it and then began wiggling the moving part and it then popped out. The moving pin (for lack of a better description) has a flat machined on it and that flat must stop somewhere up the pin where it stays as a round shape. There is obviously a spring in there behind the pin and some seals and stuff too as it's hydraulically activated as well. The body is cross drilled and the pin is pushed in with the spring behind it and a solid steel tiny little pin is drive thru to trap the big moving pin inside of the tensioner body. Well, from sitting in the horizontal position the little pin has worn a bit of a notch into the big pin and that was catching it in place. So the IMS chain might not have been tensioned properly when running. I ordered a new tensioner to replace this one and they are not big $$, somewhere in the $110 range. The trans is 16" tall so this work can certainly be done on the ground in your garage and not have to lift the car too high. I will take a few pics of the tensioner later and add them. |
Great story and thanks for the pics and details.
+1 on you choosing whatever IMSB you want AND LET'S NOT TURN THIS WONDERFUL THREAD INTO AN IMS THREAD!!!!! BTW, where in DC is your daughter, I grew up there. |
jcslocum,
Where did you get the center console hinge kit at? |
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Great thread! Thanks for the compliments earlier in the thread. Can we see more pics of your $5 bearing puller?
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Holy cow....
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The console kit is a Porsche kit part number 996.552.960.01 and should be available at any dealer or online for about $32.00. It took about 3 minutes to install. There were no directions but I can help explain if you need it.
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So, now to my cheep Yankee puller. This is not an indictment of anyone else or their products. This is more an indictment of me being cheep and somewhat clever. For most of us this is a one time use tool. I may need to do another IMS bearing because I'm a serial Porsche owner and project addicted. I have pulled a lot of bearings in the past and didn't see the need to invest a few hundies in a single use tool that to me isn't all that unique. I searched for folks that had made their own puller and cam holders, and found nothing on the interwebs, so I was on my own. I have lots of junk tucked away in my 2 car garage/shop. I'm always puttering on cars and have a few projects going all the time. I typically over buy small things because I don't want to run out to pick little stuff up when doing a job, and this is where this exhaust pipe part came in. Allie was messing with the 944 exhaust system a few years ago and while out I grabbed a few adaptors that were $2.79 each. She didn't need some so it got thrown into a box of "muffler" stuff for use later or maybe never, but I don't throw good stuff away. Here's Allie after she got done welding up here "test" pipe to replace the cat. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...pssalo7jpa.jpg Enough bragging, back to the puller. The pipe is strong enough for the job to pull the double row with the wire keeper that it has. The OEM bearing stud is 8mm ( #1 in the picture below ) with what we would call a fine thread or a pitch of 1.0, so the standard coupling nut( #2 below ) must be threaded to 8mm 1.0 from the standard 0f 8mm 1.25 pitch. I didn't re-drill it, I just grabbed a 8x1.0 tap and cut the new threads on 1 side or 1/2 deep on the coupling nut #2. The threaded Rod ( #3 in the pic ) is 8mm 1.25 thread pitch so only 1/2 of 1 of the nuts needs to be rethreaded. The pipe is just an off the shelf exhaust pipe that is sold in every auto parts store. The only dimension that matter is the ID (inside diameter) of the end that goes on the end of the IMS pocket. The OD (outside diameter) of the bearing is approx 1-7/8" OD so you need a bit if clearance for the bearing to come into. The pipe I used is a Nickson 548516 Autozone info: Nickson 2.00" I.D. x 1.75" O.D. Reducer Part No. 548516 $3.99 I don't pay full price at the local parts store, I paid $2.99 You MUST use a coupling nut as the part that you turn and introduce the load. The standard nut will end up stripping the threaded rod. The normal threaded rod isn't made from the strongest material like a normal bolt. So I used a second coupling nut to wrench on and lube it up with some slippery grease. #5 is just a scrap piece of steel with a hole in it for the threaded rod to some thru and cover the end. I also used some washers becasuse the hole was like 1" so I needed to shrink this down to 8mm. You can grab a piece of plate 1/4" from your local dirt floor weld shop for free, take it home and drill an 8mm hole in it and you are good to go! http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps5quj21av.jpg The puller during first fit up. The pipe shown has the wrong ID so I changed it to the 2" ID part. the "normal" height nut will not work. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps3v2czhjq.jpg I hope this helps. |
Weekend Update:
Not much time this weekend for Boxster work. New tires mounted, 2nd cats cut out for test pipes and new muffler and some little things but reversing the trend is getting things bolted back on now. Used flywheel showed up and is in much better shape than the original. About 10MM movement and returns nicely to "center". Surface is also much better. If course Porsche uses a much more arcane procedure for tightening the SINGLE use flywheel bolts. So I got my new bolts out, mounted the flywheel after giving it a good cleaning and torqued the bolts to the step 1 of 19Ft. Lbs. Why torque and then use "angle of turn" you ask? Well the low torque value stiffens the joint or takes out any slop, smile or opening between the back of the flywheel or crank face. The reason to use angle of turn, is that the friction between the bolt thread surfaces or the load bearing surface under the head does NOT need to be used in the load calculation. friction plays a big part of the load losses and this makes toque too inaccurate when trying to load a bolt very close to it's yield point. The BEST cleaning tools you can have in your garage. A gallon of BrakeKleen and the Vapor sprayer. I think the sprayer cost me about $25 and if you do any work in your garage you MUST get one. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psne0vkgsu.jpg After torque, I maked the bolts for 120 degrees of movement. This is east by downloading and printing a circle divided into 3 pieces and then cutting out one section: http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psrgzv2xas.jpg Place this over the bolt and mark the head at 1 point and mark the 2nd point, 120* away on the flywheel. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...pspa5jjchy.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps3wegahhc.jpg All you do then, is grab your long 1/2" drive breaker bar and move the bolt mark to the next mark on the flywheel. These bolts get tight so the breaker bar is needed!! http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...pstueenafd.jpg I cleaned the new pressure plate oils off and then mounted it to the flywheel with new bolts. New bolts are not needed for this application but they were cheep, so I got new. The kit I bought didn't come with a plastic friction disc alignment tool so I used an input shaft from a 915 rebuild that we are doing for Allie's 911. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psx1w2xl6b.jpg Once that was all bolted up, I moved on to cleaning the grunge off of the trans, yuk. I will share one of my closely held trade secrets with y'all. The BEST way to clean this type of thing is by using wheel cleaner, not just any wheel cleaner but SONAX wheel cleaner. The stuff cuts right thru the $hite like a hot knife thru butter. I put the trans out in the sun for a few hours while I was doing the clutch work. This heats up the gunk and gets those dirt atoms moving and ready to leave the surface of the trans. I then soak it with wheel cleaner and make sure that the trans is now in the shade. You don't want it drying on there. This is where you must have some patience and allow this stuff to sit and do it's job. wait 20 minutes and then give it another coating of cleaner and allow to sit for 20 minutes in the shade. Now get the garden home turned on, use an old paint brush to give it some agitation and spray with the hard direct stream of water. The grunge will melt away and you will be left with a nice clean tranny. From this: http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...pshryeti2g.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psdzy9jut0.jpg To this: http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psj32kic92.jpg Much nicer to work with the clean parts vs filthy parts!! The trans might meet the engine again tonight, if I can get Missus Better 7/8ths to run the lift for me. |
once again, a stellar writeup
Did notice your trouble light needs to have the power cord repaired before it gets frayed and zaps you |
Thanks for the kind words, all of you.
In one of my previous rambles, I mentioned that the timing chain tensioner did not pop out when removed, but must have worn a groove and it was stuck in that groove. I can push it in and feel the "click" of the pin going over the groove. I ordered a new tensioner and put it in this past Saturday. As I was handling it, it was obvious that this new tensioner had a heavier spring in it an looked a bit different too. I decided to make and un-scientific test and grabbed the old flywheel and set it onto the old tensioner (on the left) to see how far it would push the spring in. I marked it and this is about 85% of the full range of motion for the plunger. I did the same thing to the new tensioner and you can see the difference. Old = 122K miles and about 2x the movement under the same weight. The old spring is much weaker and the plunger was stuck. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psoxszvtov.jpg Not sure what this all means but my guess is that the old tensioner spring is tired and/or Porsche has made many updates and one being a new heavier spring. |
Got some work done today after work. Put the trans in with the help of Missus Better 7/8ths and it went pretty smooth overall. Cleaned up the inside of the bell housing and the pivot for the fork. Greased all the friction points and noticed some wear on the fork where the throwout bearing rides.
I cleaned up the motor mounts and got them bolted in. Lubed the shifter linkage. I need new ends for the cables. Has anyone figured out if these can be replaced or rebuilt? http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psdrjfraqr.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psgondunug.jpg I filled the tans with oil and love the way I was able to squeeze the quart of oil up there and squirt the oil thru the hole to fill it! Most of the time I end up using the pump or a hose and getting 1/2 of the oil in my hair (not much on top but the sides are very absorbent), down my arms and inside my gloves. Not tonight though, engineering may have made some poor fastener choices and that stupid security drain plug, but the hit a home run with the filler location! Now, finally some eye candy! Muffler and pipes from Top Speed will look and sound awesome. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psjyo9qnaf.jpg Nice welds on the 2nd cat eliminator pipes and they also sent new hardware. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psmxpaeww1.jpg I might have to cut those extra brackets off if you use them with the original muffler. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...pszltbzmxl.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psz2nm6ejg.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps0l0clqxd.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...pscpkjpgaz.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...pssm2tkadt.jpg More to come. |
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Youre one bad ass dad |
Another Saturday another plow thru the list of things that need to be done and finished up underneath the Box. With the IMS bearing installed it's time to modify the oil pump to feed it fresh oil instead of letting it turn to some kind of primordial soup over tim. At the same time, the front engine mont was rockin and rolling and I had a new bushing to install.
The red arrow is the oil pump buried behind the motor mount, which is the blue arrow. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psndytohlf.jpg The 4 body nuts are easy to get to but the 2 top bolts (green head) to the engine are not. The trick is to let the engine hang as low as possible after the body fasteners are off. Like hang on the hoses and the jack not touching the engine. To give you MAX wiggle room to pull it out, you should also make sure that there is NO pressure in the cooling system by opening the coolant cap in the trunk and letting it sit loosely. This will allow you max squeeze on the hoses to allow the mount to slide out. It came out pretty easily towards the passenger side. On a scale of 10-10 on the swear jar scale, I put only a couple of quarters in and didn't you any of the more exotic words I know. Once the mount was out, I can see that it is destroyed. The inner part is not even connected to the rubber. I guess 122K is just too much!!! http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psp2oci9pv.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psxxruxtfz.jpg This shows the new bushing vs. what's left of the old one. Out with the old and in with the new. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psz1uucwis.jpg This part didn't fit into my crappy little press, so Brute Force and Ignorance to the rescue! With no way to press it out/in, the only option is to make a slice into the outer steel ring and collapse this ring to enable it to be knocked out. A few minutes with a hack saw and then a chisel and punch and the old part was out. The new part had to be pressed in and I did that with a driver and 3lb hammer. Once side of the mount has a nice bevel made into the opening to allow an easy start of the new bush. A bit of white lube on the leading edge and then some judicious pounding and the new bush was in. It must be oriented properly as well. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psz24kglkm.jpg A little clean up and bolting the 2 parts together and she ready to go back in. But not yet! http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...pstdixzwvt.jpg Time for some open heart surgery. The EPS bearing needs the oil pump modded to feed fresh oil to the bearing. The oil pump is behind the motor mount and has about 10 10mm bolts holding it to the front of the engine. It has an o-ring making the seal, not a gasket so it's not going to be hard to take off. It also has dowel pins locating it accurately and a lug to pry on to get it off without breaking the cover. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...pss22d8gzy.jpg The prying lug is up near the bolt sticking thru and the oil pressure spring is under the hex head plug on the left side of the pic. A few taps on the hex and a long pry driver to get the top moving and it came right off. The oil pump drive hex is sticking out on the right side. Mark the gears so they go back in the same place and inspect them for wear. These look just fine and a quick clean up and they are ready to go back in. This is the pump drive hole that the hex fits into and needs to have a hole punched into plug deep in there. EPS supplies the nicely sharpened punch in the kit and all it took was a few strong taps to break thru and get the 3mm hole required. It was stuck in there like a nail into wood, so it took a few side taps to get it loose and pull it out. Because I have a "show me" streak, I grabbed a piece of wire to probe the hole and just see how far it can go in. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps2rvt8art.jpg I stuck this in and it goes in quite a ways and came out with the skanky smelling oil on it that I found when I pulled the IMS bearing out. So, I'm now happy with the design thinking that went into this. Change out the hex drive for the oil pump that has the special groove cut into it and remount the pump cover and gears. I filled the cover and gears with oil to make sure it was lubed on startup. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psbfmbwdrm.jpg The oil pump is a finely made and finished part and uses no gaskets or seals in it's operation. The shafts and gears use the oil and the close tolerances to make a seal so that is doesn't bypass more then a certain amount. This is what the hex drive needs to have the groove cut into it. Even with the 3mm hole in the back of the pump, oil would not really run in there by traveling down the original hex drive. This slot must meter/bleed a certain amount oil thru to the back side and into the IMS to then feed the bearing. All buttoned up and ready to run!! http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psnkliho67.jpg |
Now we move to the top side to do some maintenance and some upgrades. I love the access allowed but wish the clam shell would just pop off. Being old make leaning into the engine compartment a slight drag, BUT my shoulders were tired from working over my head for the past few weeks too. One is never satisfied....
Off comes the throttle body for a cleaning and to mount the Pedro's torque tube thingy. The TB is quite filthy and gets a good cleaning. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps0k2zc6bi.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psi5kma122.jpg With the TB out, the "T" needs to be removed. This involves some hose clamps and then some pushing and pulling and it pops right out. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psckh8yirk.jpg Also, while disconnecting the tube from the AOS it crumbled and I'm sure was leaking false air into the system. I hate cheap $hit stuff like this. So many things are so well designed and executed on the engine/drive train but this piece of tube was pulled from a clothes dryer or something to save $0.02. It's a thin corrugated plastic that lives in a hot place and just got hard and very very crispy. It really did crumble into pieces when trying to disconnect it. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psjbiyw651.jpg This happened while taking the clip type ends off of the "T' thing. I'm 100% certain that this was a vacuum leaker and by it's design and location, it is really hard to inspect. If you have some work done, get this replaced as preventive maintenance. As it was saturday and no dealer in sight and I didn't want to wait, I called Missus Better 7/8 ths who happened to be out doing some retail therapy. Before she took off, we had discussed what I was working on and she recalled just how tight the TB was to the other parts. What I needed was a 7/8" ID rubber hose to replace the shattered AOS pipe. I gave her a call to give her the dimensions (she was in the dressing room trying on a dress) and we chatted about being naked and the hose I needed. I sent her a text with a picture and size/length of hose needed. She returns home victorious but not with just 1 hose. The 7/8" ID hose was too stiff in her opinion to make the turn from TB to AOS so she got a short piece of that and then a smaller hose that was very flexi that would go inside of the larger hose to make the connection. I ended up having to use about 16" of the smaller flexi hose in a loop but it worked perfectly. The 7/8 hose just collapsed on itself when I tried to make the bend and would have just closed up and pinched off the vacuum. She's the best and I don't know what she sees in me. Puty I guess....... A nice clean TB ready to go back in. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psmad0stdu.jpg Time to clean the MAF, not only is it tucked away under the edge on the engine compartment but the same clown the designed the transmission drain bolt, did the MAF screws too. The screws are a security type of screw. Really??? http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psan8btrei.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps1pwkpfvz.jpg Is there a run on MAF's being stolen out there?? Is it the mob or just kids yanking them out for fun?? This is a maintenance item and needs to be easy to be cleaned. The saved $0.02 on the AOS tube and then wasted here with these stupid screws... Another design conundrum. One end of the air tube that carries the fresh are past the hard to steal MAF into my nicely cleaned TB is nearly impossible to slip onto the TB!! I had to use a huge pry driver to get it to pop on, BUT the other end?? Slips on like an old slipper with ZERO effort. WTF is up with this kind of execution?? I definitely put some $$ in the swear jar while performing this feat. It was getting late, I was tired and wanted to crank it over and hear it run!!! Fighting with this friggin tube pushed my patience to the limit. I filler her up with oil, checked and rechecked all connections, got my foot on the clutch and turned the key. Fire on 1/2 of a crank!! It settled into a nice high idle, showed oil pressure when the idiot light went out. I slipped out and looked underneath to make sure I wasn't pumping 9 Qts of oil onto the floor and let it run a bit. It settled into a nice slow idle and the new exhaust sounded GREAT! It was very satisfying after so may different little projects were done. Some major some very minor, but all done to make a better car. |
It's been s few weeks since the last update but work has continued. Once the engine was buttoned up I began working on the seats that Allie picked up. The issue we ran into was that they were memory seats and we don't have that option in the car. I figured this would be easy and just wire the power up to the switches, but no such luck!! The memory panel has to be powered to make the seats work as the switches don't really switch power. After a bit of messing about with jumpers and filling a new swear jar, I got it worked out and the seats work just fine.
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps790o1ixc.jpg So, after the seats were sorted and bolted in I could finally go for a decent drive (still no plates)up and down the road we live on and a few of the side roads. Well, once out for more then 2 minutes it got good and hot. The temp gauge moved up above the 180 mark, so i figured it needed some additional coolant, as this was the first time it was good and hot. Well, I pull into the garage, get out and there is steam and water in the truck and on the ground. I immediately felt bad and figured the coolant take was bad that the PO had put in. I ordered up a new one and waited for it to arrive. While waiting i continued to work on the paint and scratches. I have wet sanded about 40% of the car by now after working with the touch up paint and clear. New coolant tank comes in and I get ready for that epic task. I empty the swear jar and buy some new beer. I figure this job from what I have read with be a real swear jar filler. Undo a few bolts, and then get busy under the hood to undo the hoses. Lo and behold, one of the hoses on the back side has blown off now that the engine has been hot enough to build pressure!! http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...pstmby5w3o.jpg I threw some money in the swear jar, got my pliers out and proceeded to try to [put that hose back on. Well, that is no easy task. But with the help of wallet emptying swearing I got it on and clamped up. This job is much better done by a flexible skinny (anorexic?) person. That is not me :-) Hose hooked up, tank topped up and a restart to make sure we have a pretty good fill before we go out for another shake down ride. a couple of BIG air burps and a continued top up and I now begin to see some motor oil getting burped up and small globules of oil running out. Severe depression has now set in and I'm swearing in 6 or 7 languages. F the swear jar, I'm working up a real hate for this car now. So I shut it off, close it up and move on to other projects and ignore the car for a few days. I do some reading and find that the oil cooler is a failure spot for this as there is only oil in the water but no water in the oil. Tonight I pull the oil drain plug to let out some oil into a pan and there is no water. No oil in the oil filter housing. I decide to pull the cooler and check for leaks. Drain the coolant and see some but not a lot of oil come out with the water. Once the coolant was probably down below the cooler level I screwed the plug in and got busy taking the cooler off. Pull the hose, unscrew the 4 - 5mm bolts and slip it onto a zip lock bag so no mess gets all over the engine. Once on the bench, I allow the cooler to drain, mostly oil as the coolant went down when the rest of the system drained. I put a rubber cap on the hose nipple, made up a rubber fitting to go on my air gun, set the regulator to 25 PSI. I run inside and ask Missus better 7/8ths to come out and be the looker for bubbles as a try to hold my Rube Goldberg pressure thing together and onto the bottom of the cooler. Fill the one side with water, apply pressure and after 10 seconds bubbles are definitely coming up on the left side of the cooler!!! YAY!! we may have just dodged the big bad, bad engine event. Whew I feel better and will now have an adult beverage supplied by the swear jar :-0 http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psvrcbg2gb.jpg I ordered the "S" cooler from FCP for 121$$ along with new seals and we should be back in shake down mode next week. |
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Don't let the engine hang on the hoses if you replace the motor mount. ;) There are special tools - long wrenches to unsrew and screw the upper 2 screws. ;) BTW: nice write up. Regards from Germany Markus |
Allie is working with a really TIGHT budget so we replaced what was needed. As time goes by, she will replace the other tensioners. The new tensioner completely removed a start up chatter issue that sounded like bad lifters and then would go away after 2-3 seconds. An unexpected benefit!!
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Thanks for documenting your work so well! This thread will help a lot of people!
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Regards Markus |
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